1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

[Dust]

You have inspired me to finally do more work on my hilux .

[infotechplus]

Well, it's been a bit slow over the weekend. Had to do some house renovation-type stuff which chewed up all of Saturday and half of Sunday (today). Back to work tomorrow (for a rest and I have some small things to do to allow me to move forward with this conversion - in particluar a plate to house the fuel gear under the Hilux.

I got some U-brackets from Bunnings. I had to buy a packet of six (6) - typical mass-market nonsense. This will locate the BOSCH pump on the plate, along with the (new) fuel filter.

The Chassis Black had thoroughly dried so I put the suspension back in - drop blocks and shocks - and looked at re-routing the wiring for the rear lights and towbar which I'll wrap in some black convoluted tubing to keep it tidy.





I also managed to get the fuel tank back in and wired up, although I'm going to have to partially drop it again to connect the fuel pump electrical connection.

The placement of the fuel tank is another one of those Japanese marvels of ingenuity. You don't have too many options for putting it in and it really requires two people as you have to raise the front to locate the three bolts, simultaneously raising the back and also fitting the fuel filler neck tubing. I ended up taking the fuel filler tubing out, putting it on the fuel tank then raising front and rear, locating a bolt in each, then connecting the filler tube. Almost like Rubik's Cube













To do this week:

Fabricate plate for fuel pump and filter, using original undercar mounting points
Mount pump and filter, and connect with EFI fuel hose and hose clamps
Print off Bullfrog's ECU schematics on A3 paper for further study
Fabricate intake bracket to hold AFM and install
Install Odyssey battery - either a PC545, PC535 or PC680
Connect gauges from cabin to lighting power
Install Boost gauge

PS. If you are wondering about the rear tailshaft - it'll come out later for a cleanup and lick of paint

Two problems:

Small pinhole leak in sump
Clearance of the power steering rack as the engine settles on its mounts

Cheers,
Peter

[infotechplus]

Yesterday I installed the intake bracket I fabricated (cut?) from an off-cut 2mm aluminium sheet. It holds the AFM nice and steady, and has the added advantage of using the four original mounting points on the AFM, and two threaded holes on the inside guard. I only had to drill one hole.







Also I was asked to take some measurements of the engine bay, and clearances to the thermo fan/radiator.

I am sure I remember reading somewhere that the engine bays of pre-11/1988 Hilux are slightly smaller in length so the 1GGxx is a really tight fit. Well, I know from my own experience that fitting this lump to my RN85 was very interesting. In fact, after having removed everything from the engine bay, I really had to tilt the engine on the hoist to squeeze it in. I also remember having to pull the radiator support panel forward to push the front of the engine past (I put a towel there to prevent all the paint being damaged too) as it went down. You really need another pair of hands or two.

So here we go:

From the firewall (just under the compliance plate) to the rear of the radiator support panel is 815mm

From underneath the ridge on the firewall to back of the 1GGZE rocker cover is 610mm

Clearance from the same position on the firewall to the rear of engine (behind the raised plastic cover) is 35-40mm

With careful arranging you can get good clearances at the front but even then you might just get your hand down there.











It really depends on what radiator you use - the Nissan CA18 is as slim as I've seen them. If you can source a slimmer radiator then do so. Also, if you aren't running air con then consider the larger 12" thermo fan (or two 10"s), and mount them on the front of the radiator. Just a thought.

cheers,
Peter

[infotechplus]

Well, I've been back at work for two weeks now so not much has happened with the 1GGZE conversion. I have enlisted the help of a friend of mine to tackle the wiring and a couple of trips to Pick 'n' Payless have been neccessary to grab essential items not provided with the engine package. (You learn these things as you go )



I'm not an electrical engineer and these wiring diagrams seem to defy all logic. I have to rely on you guys to point out where I'm going wrong, and to answer my questions - I've got a couple in the 1GGZE wiring thread if anyone can help.

We grabbed the complete loom out of a prisitine Corolla for the correct coloured wires, the relays, fuses and fuel pump bits - $30 plus a fuel pump resistor for $20.

In the meantine I have been able to do some work in the cab, mainly wiring up all the gauges, running wires and vacuum tubing. I did find a small tacho in a ute that had only just arrived - no branding but it goes to 8K and has an adjustable redline, as well as a switch on the back for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders. I tested the power and it lights up so hopefully it will work on the Lux (that doesn't have a tacho obviously).

We've connected some of the wires to the cluster, mainly water temp gauge, ignition, oil warning light, and put in some fuses and relays for the Supercharger.







It doesn't take long for the creatures of the night to move in but I'm sure it's only a matter of another weekend or two and (hopefully) I'll be able to enjoy this conversion.



I've changed my mind again about the thermal fan switch after reading not-too-good things about the Craig, Davies item that has a tendency to leak. I figured if the instructions that came with the product tell you that leaks are a possibility I'll give it a miss. So I returned it to Supercheap Auto for a refund. I had a scout 'round Pick 'n' Payless for the Tridon TFS168 switch out of the Pulsar/EXA/ET but the only one I found had been mangled by an overzealous individual who obviously didn't have the right size socker/spanner

I have wired up the in-tank fuel pump, and run a wire to the engine bay (the other I earthed on the chassis underneath.) I'll have to splice in the BOSCH fuel pump there too.

I also managed to cure the pinhole leak in the sump by applying some 2 part metal epoxy. It's been a week and no sign of any oil so I'm pleased I didn't have to drop the pan out again, and have to remove all that gasket goo.

Cheers

[TA-022]

wow! pretty amazing work man.

and buga bought pickies and the thermo switch .. i was gunna try this weekend

ill prob order one this week .. msg me if your interested ill get two.

Cheers

Nathan

[infotechplus]

wow! pretty amazing work man.

and buga bought pickies and the thermo switch .. i was gunna try this weekend

ill prob order one this week .. msg me if your interested ill get two.

Cheers

Nathan

Getting a thermo switch as in the Tridon TFS unit?

Peter

[TA-022]

to be more specific TFS106 1G suitable

as per listings here http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...815#post346815

[infotechplus]

to be more specific TFS106 1G suitable

as per listings here http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...815#post346815

REPCO Parramatta North quoted me $95.00 for the TFS106

Auto One Kingsford ... $90.00

Auto One Seven Hills... $80.00

Can you get them any cheaper?

Cheers,

Peter

[TA-022]

will put a call into my man tommorow

[infotechplus]

Just been to Supercheap Auto and enquired about the TFS106. The quote was $62.70 and could be next day delivery.

Cheers,

[TA-022]

my guy came back with $75 .. he's normally my best but i guess not this time.

[Grega]

pays to shop around aye!

[infotechplus]

pays to shop around aye!

You are so right Grega!

I learnt quite some time ago that what might seem like a standard part will have a wildly variable price from store to store, and even retailer to retailer.

REPCO and Auto One, because they are franchises, charge whatever they feel whereas Supercheap Auto is all owned by the one family business.

What I find interesting is that they all get their parts inventory from the same set of distributors eg. each store told me they would have to order the Tridon in so that means each has a different set of values when calculating markup. But look at the price differential - over $30 difference

Sometimes I think they just make the numbers up. At Pick 'n' Payless the same guy, on two consecutive days, quoted me $25 and $55 for the same part. On each occasion he spent 5 minutes tapping on his computer before giving me the price.

Yes, it does pay to ring around. I keep a set of phone numbers of these stores and give each one a call before buying, even, as i said, different stores from the same chain.

Cheers,

[Grega]

pete, ideally the larger retailers *should* be able to offer larger discounts as, they buy in bulk and hence the more they buy the bigger the discount. thats the theory. but once large retailers get greedy well, profits go up as do prices to match that of the competition (or make them a little bit lower) so the saving to you at the end of the day is not always as good as what it could be...

i normally find that when i'm looking for a bit theres a couple of places around here i'll trade off against each other - ones a small family business thats been around for the last eleventy billion years, the other is bursons and repco. if i end up at repco i'll get my mate to get it trade as he's got an account and not only gets trade but good pricing (yes thats from repco i kid you not)

[infotechplus]

Being an extra long weekend (I had Thursday off as well) I felt inspired to do a bit of work on the Lux conversion. I have been pondering the 1GGZE schematics hoping for some divine inspiration - or any inspiration for that matter - so I went to Pick 'n' Payless armed with a notepad and pen, ready to take some notes from various Toyotas.

I didn't take too many notes but I did find another Fuel Pump Resistor on a Cressida that was a match for the one recommended by Bullfrog. It even had the correctly coloured pair of wires and was only $10 so I got it.

Pick 'n' Payless Blacktown

For those of you interstate or that have never had the pleasure of scrounging through Gary Rush's Pick 'n' Payless here's a brief guided tour. They won't allow you to take photos inside but you may have seen the advert on TV. It's a huge yard right next door to a major scrap metal recycling plant just on the outskirts of Blacktown.

As you come in (it's $2 to go in, non-refundable if you come out with nothing) on the right there are Holdens, then Toyota, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Diahatsu, Mazda, and right up the back Subaru, Honda, VW and assorted bits eg Jeep. The cars go back about 20 rows, and there are usually 3-4 rows arranged in models. The older cars are further back from the centre aisle, newer models closer.

On your immediate left is the holding yard where you can see what is coming up - it's fenced off. Then there are several rows of Fords, luxury cars like BMW and Mercedes, then commercial vehicles, utes, 4WDs, vans, Kombis, and old trucks right up the back.

They have a couple of guys with forklifts constantly shifting new wrecks in and removing the stripped shells off to the recyclers. It must be a great business and I'm sure its made Rush a multimillionaire. They buy the old cars for approx. $100 or sometimes you pay them depending on the car and age. They make their money back several times over and then sell the leftovers to the recyclers probably for close to what they paid for it.

Prices continue to bewilder me. I bought a Fuel Pump Resistor one weekend for $20; the next weekend I buy another and its $10 They use computers but you have to tell them what you have and the car it came off, the model and year. This is so they can type it into the database to get the price. I personally believe the guy is just playing cards or PacMan for a minute or two and then he pulls a random figure out of the air and watches for your reaction. If you say OK he's happy but you can haggle but the result varies depending on who your haggling with. The young guys there believe every customer is a distraction; the older guys are happy to talk things over with you.

All in all, its an experience and you can sometimes get a bargain especially if you know what the item is worth elsewhere. That's why its a good idea to price something before you go.

Occasionally you get lucky. I found about $6 in loose change yesterday under various seats (nearly always the girlie cars with the seat covers and dangling things hanging off the rear coat hook), and in the centre console. Under the seat of a newly-added ute I found a screwdriver and near-new tape measure.

I think that's why they charge admission - they figure you're going to stuff something in your pockets anyway

Anyway, back to the job ...

Here's a photo of the tacho I found a week or so ago. The GReddy Boost Gauge I got from SSS Automotive but the wiring was razzed so I had to dismember it to attach new wiring. I also re-calibrated it using equipment at work that's why the needle is slightly offset from zero.



A friend gave me a horn. I never had one as the Lux came with twin air horns so I thought I'd replace them as they took up a fair amount of space.

[img]i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/More%20photos/rn85_horn.jpg[/img]

I decided to run the wiring from the Fuel Pumps throught the grommet in the floor behind the driver's seat. That way it wouldn't be at risk underneath and I could run the wire up to the ECU and engine bay invisibly. The earth wires are attached to the underchassis where the fuel filter is located.



The BOSCH Fuel Pump is cable-tied for the time being but this is where it will be located so that I can use the original fuel lines as much as possible. My only concern here is matching the small end of the hose to the original metal line - it leaks at the moment so I will have to find a solution.



I connected the tacho wire to the ECU via a splice connector. This is the yellow RPM wire; the green wire runs to the tacho.



I'm using the schematics that Bullfrog provided which I've printed out on four A3 sheets and joined together. The trusty checklight is a great invention when working with wiring.



This morning I spent several hours stripping out wiring from the loom we got from the Corolla at Pick 'n' Payless a couple of weeks ago. It took some time because of all the black sticky tape and plastic tubing that had to be cut away, and then I tried wherever possible to keep the connectors in the plugs (and not just cut the wires).

I matched all the coloured wires with the ECU plug that had been cut, soldered them together, covered each join with shrink tubing, and then cable tied the loom in front off and behind the joins. I then wrapped everything in black insulation tape. Later I will label each wire ready for matching to the rest of the loom.





That's it for this weekend. Hopefully during the week I'll find some time to join up a few more wires.

Cheers,