1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

[infotechplus]

This is the mid/rear sump installed (temporarily):



The silver marks on the front of the sump are where the steering arm is hitting it. This is where the modification needs to be made. Not a big job, just fiddly.



The steering arm is hanging down in front. You have to remove both ends to do this work comfortably.

Cheers,

Peter

[TA-022]

mir-rear sump requires same mods to clear steering when used in ta/ra23/28 with std steering.

[infotechplus]

mir-rear sump requires same mods to clear steering when used in ta/ra23/28 with std steering.

So what do people do?

My idea is to take about 1-2cm out of the back section laterally, and then a small right angled section out of the front. This will allow easy installation, and clear that damn steering arm. I'm also factoring in the internal baffling.

Cheers,

Peter

[TA-022]

use a 'gentle' persuader (read: hammer)

im serious

[Bullfrog]

i was going to say i have the special tool no. 8976598-3a for that job.

[Grega]

light application of the friendly persuader will help here.
however if you're anal you could (instead of the sump having the angled section on it) cut the angle bit out plus a bit forward and weld in a piece of metal that goes straight up towards the top of the motor (so if you like box off the backside of the sump)
would a front sump be an alternative.

re: internal baffling, theres not much there to worry about - theres basically a plate which is spot welded about 3cm from the top of the sump (there was on my 1GGTE sump) with a hole which the oil pickup goes thru. you'd just need to pickup (read weld) the backside of that plate to the back of your sump, no big deal.

ps: whats the wire thats not hooked up on the ECU?

[infotechplus]

Would a front sump be an alternative.

Grega, I have a modified front sump but I'm concerned at full lock the steering arm is just nudging the back of the sump where we cut and welded. It's not moving the sump as evidenced by the fact that it took me some time to pry the bl00dy thing off the engine!

I thought the mid/rear might be a better and more acceptable alternative, and I think it is but I'm just exasperated that everything I do on this project has to me modified, cut or adapted. I thought this was a "bolt-in", as they say.

re: internal baffling, theres not much there to worry about - theres basically a plate which is spot welded about 3cm from the top of the sump (there was on my 1GGTE sump) with a hole which the oil pickup goes thru. you'd just need to pickup (read weld) the backside of that plate to the back of your sump, no big deal.

No problems there. Blake gave me a complete baffle plate that bolts up like a gasket. I would have put up a photo but it's a bit worse for wear at the moment. When I've got it cleaned up I'll post a photo. It's quite a work of art.

I was going to say i have the special tool no. 8976598-3a for that job.

LOL. Yeah, I've got one of those but the earlier version, with the wooden handle.

use a 'gentle' persuader (read: hammer)

I think TA that it will require a cut and shut, rather than gentle persuasion.

ps: whats the wire thats not hooked up on the ECU?

I'd have to check and post up pin numbers but I do remember in our euphoria at having got the thing going that we stopped all other work on the wiring (except for the dash lights, etc). I know I still haven't done the AC, but I do remember one wire I marked as "igniter" not going anywhere. I'll have a look tonight and post up all unconnected/unknown pins.

Cheers everyone,

Peter

[Grega]

but I do remember one wire I marked as "igniter" not going anywhere

hmmm. might be something like the return wire from the ignitor back to the ECU to indicate a successful ignition event? this may be your issue?

No problems there. Blake gave me a complete baffle plate that bolts up like a gasket. I would have put up a photo but it's a bit worse for wear at the moment. When I've got it cleaned up I'll post a photo. It's quite a work of art.

nah. you're thinking of the windage plate that goes b/w the sump and the bottom of the block. the thing i'm talking about is the plate about 5cm down from that actually welded in the sump. thats the thing you'd have to mod.

i had this problem also when i did my first 4AGE conversion in my TA22. however my drag links were touching the bloody bellhousing the fix was to adjust the point of full lock (remember the ta22 has a steering box abortive device) so that i didn't actually get full lock completely, i ended up with 80% of full lock but enough clearance for it not to be a problem i dunno if this with help you dunno enough about hiluxes.

[infotechplus]

hmmm. might be something like the return wire from the ignitor back to the ECU to indicate a successful ignition event? this may be your issue?

The wire that is not connected is Pin 2 on G1 plug. It's a black wire Bullfrog marked as "Igniter" on his modified schematics.

Cheers,

Peter

[Grega]

pete, g2 (black) on a AU spec 100kw 4AGE is IGT back to the ECU.
i know your machine ain't the same but i'd reckon thats pretty important somehow mate
the 100kw 4AGE has a 5 pin plug (grey) how many pins does yours have?

[infotechplus]

pete, g2 (black) on a AU spec 100kw 4AGE is IGT back to the ECU.
i know your machine ain't the same but i'd reckon thats pretty important somehow mate
the 100kw 4AGE has a 5 pin plug (grey) how many pins does yours have?

On the 1GGZE plug G1 is a 13 pin plug, with pin 9 blanked out.



Pins 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12 and 13 are not needed as they are to do with the Cruise Control, and Auto gearbox (ECT Pattern Select Switch).

That leaves pins 1, 2, 3 and 7.

I've connected pin 3, the Oil Pressure Switch to the dash, and I assume pin 7, the Water Temp also goes to the dash.

So pins 1 and 2 are yet to be connected.

According to the ECU schematics pin 1 GND connects to the Check connector N pin 3 and comes from pin 9 on the digital dash from the donor vehicle.

So where does the black pin 2 go?

Cheers,

Peter

[Grega]

2 goes to tacho on my diag.
i'll email u

[1JZ~lux]

Could it be a signal for a tacho??

[infotechplus]

Well, mark today down in the calendar.

I finally got to drive the Lux up and down the street out front of my house. Would have been a sight given it has no doors on one side and the driver's rear door also missing, and no tailgate.

The engine is still hunting - haven't managed to track down the answer to that problem.

But I finished installing the MA70 master cylinder and booster, so I bled all four calipers, fixed a small leak at the rear union, then with Bob's assistance we did the clutch. We had to make a slave cylinder rod out of a long bolt as the standard item was too short to activate the clutch.

The driving was curtailed, however, when the power steering hose blew and coated the engine bay with fluid. Looks like a trip to Motorsport Connections tomorrow morning to get a custom hose made up that will withstand the pressure (and to Supercheap Auto to get some aerosol degreaser).

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

2 goes to tacho on my diag.
i'll email u

I'm buying a tacho tomorrow at Supercheap Auto so I'll test that theory Grega. I'll let you know.

Cheers,

Peter