They will. Your rears are most likley not working after a few laps. I have complete rear hubs with discs and calipers from a GZE ae92 for sale as well as vented fronts. Price will be $330 for the lot. Fronts and rears complete.
I use my 92 gze for club sprints and have managed to fry a set of EBC Green and Red pads in Super Strut calipers to the point the paint on the pad has turned black as if they had caught fire. The Greens were used at Sandown and i upgraded to the Reds for Calder, i didn't experience fade from either pad. The pad supplier suggested upgrading the rear drums to disc but at the moment the drums are on the verge of locking up under hard braking as is. Will discs on the rear help the situation?
Vic.
They will. Your rears are most likley not working after a few laps. I have complete rear hubs with discs and calipers from a GZE ae92 for sale as well as vented fronts. Price will be $330 for the lot. Fronts and rears complete.
Andrew V
Central Vic Auto Parts
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1: How can the rear drums be on the verge of locking up if you have superstruts at the front?
2: Andrew, Why would he want the fronts that you picture if he has superstruts at the front.
3: If you go drums to discs at rear you will need rear control arm as well as what you show there (I think you need the rear disc flex lines too.)
4: http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=1063 (This topic also shows AE101 disc rear upgrade. Very highly recommended by the people who have done it.)
5: I completed the Disc rear upgrade a couple of months ago and found a massive difference, even with still running the std Master Cyl from the SE (i.e. not adjusting the bias at all.)
AE90 Silvertop - GONE; 2001 ST215W GT-T Manual - SOLD; EP82 Starlet GT - Sold
Now driving 20V Turbo 1.8 N-S FWD
I'm assuming the rears are on the verge of lock up because of the weight transfer under heavy braking. I'm hoping the discs on rear will have more control and be more progressive.
I've sent you an email Andrew.
Thanks
Vic.
limit braking them there always on the verge of lock up, the drums dont work as neatly.
you need the complete rear{uprights, link etc} for the change, i have never had a drum setup on one but im sure the whole lot is diffrent!
FWD is like a motorbike, your fronts do a huge amount of work but you still need good rears to take the pressure of the fronts!
I have never had fad on a fwd rolla with disc's allround and thats giving them as hard a time as you can possibly.
You might want to change your fronts to the GZE import ones or the aussie GTI ones if you dont already have them, because they make a diffrence aswell.
He's got the twin piston superstrut brakes on the front, which are bigger than the GTZ/Series II 258mm/single piston setup and also use a 25mm thick disc instead of the 22mm thick disc used on the GTZ/Series II.
You need the complete disc hub assembly, handbrake cables and the rearmost lateral arms to change to the disc setup. It's all covered at Twincam.org
If you dont get the arms, then you have to get a custom bush made to suit the drum arms. I had a bush made by Fulcrum/Superpro for one of the AE92's I've done the swap to where I didn't have the two arms from the disc setup.
PS, I also have a rear disc setup from an AE92 Levin with EVERYTHING included for $250 in Brisbane, probably too heavy to ship interstate unless you can organise a courier.
If you have the big brakes on the front already, you need to also look at your suspension as its transfering to much aswell!
Koni Yellows all around. The rear of the car is empty except for the rear seat, all of the weight is up front so i can understand why it would want to stand on its nose when asked to stop from 190km/h.
Thanks JP, i've sent you an email.
What spring rates are you using? That determines how far the front will dive under braking, the struts simply control how fast it dives.
You'll get more progressive braking on the rear with the discs. Getting rid of the drums on the rear of my car was pretty much right up there with the first mods I did to my car.
Drum brakes, ABS & stuffed shocks are not a good combo.
Is your car squirming side to side under heavy braking? The rears do very little work on the track because you're braking so hard most of the weight is on the front, just help keep the car straight.
My last Wakefield day I was on 3 wheels 90% of the time under brakes (stuffed front left shock & stock springs weren't helping) but the trail braking was awesome....
Please read:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=142
...... butt scratcher?!
Also see:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15380
For FWD suspension setups. (specifically post 13 onwards)
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
Koni's made a big difference over KYB getting rid of most of the dive but the weight transfer is always going to be there. I'm using Pedders low springs at the moment, i also have a firmer set that i'll try soon.
The car doesn't squirm and manages to keep 4 wheel on the ground.
Thanks for the info.
Vic.
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