Rex lives!
The advice of Rex is to leave the amperage set as normal, but up the wire speed about 8-10% (you'll have to fine tune this for your job as you go)
As for the technique, weld as normal but as the wire begins to burn back pause for a moment until the job cools (stops being red, maybe a second or so) then continue.
Usually this means that with your increased wire-speed you can weld 2-3 secs on then 1 sec off.
This is preferable to just cranking the wire-speed more to out-run the burn back, you'll just end up with ugly welds piled with spatter and unburned wire..
Rex lives!
Rex is dead, long live the Rex???
Rex Kelway: reboot edition.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
So how am i doing?
Welds are a bit messy and are not evenly spaced, etc, but they should do the job i think.
The black tube welded in joins the front and rear sections of the chassis rails where it stops under the rear passenger foot wells.
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Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
When I stitch welded my car I lifted the car onto it's side.. Maybe thats easier than learning to weld upside down?
See pics from my project writeup - link in my sig.
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