coilover tube thread Q

[SeptemberSquall]

Are you talking about basically anti-turreting the rear springs to a 30deg angle or something? I'd have thought that with a coil spring the spring's axis would have to be close to aligned with the axis of bump travel to work effectively.

[45aken]

if we are on the same track, basically you saying that the spring has to be aligned with the shock. my understanding is that this is not true, as many open wheel race cars (like the one i work on at uni) has the spring set at a completely different angle in regards to the shock.
if you are talking about the spring being aligned with the 'bump' as in aligned with the force acting upon it, then there are ways to transfer the direction of the movement. take a look at the ferrari's etc with the springs lying horizontal in the "boot".

basically what i was saying is that if the car say rolls, then there is a horizontal or applied to the spring, which it cannot act upon. but say if you knew the average roll of the car, then you could set the spring oppsite to this angle, so that the angled force from the roll would be aligned with the spring.

i havent really though of this as i havent even had time to think, plus it;s late and im crazy tired, so i may just be dribbling S%$T.

[Biggo]

Koni sell the coil over kits to convert standard/modified struts etc into coil overs so, if you got the sizes i dont see why they eont have specific threaded sets already made.

[45aken]

yeah i know koni do, but their threads are for there kits, you know what i mean. just got some pipe machined up then for it anyways. screw paying 200 dollars for some threaded tube!

[.T.]

fyi the koni coilover sleeves are around $25-35 each, not $200

T

[takai]

The kits are $200 which i think is what he is referring to. Where do you get the sleeves for $25-35 Toby?

[45aken]

WHAT $25 dollars! i called them the other day and he told me 200, and it was not a misunderstanding. just ordered the noltec kit for $250 anyways-the wrx stuff didnt fit.

[.T.]

chris,

i sell them for that price.

T

[45aken]

you mean to tell me that i just bought a full sleeve kit when you sell the koni threaded tubes for 25 dollars?!? o well, i still got 100 off retail
how much to you sell the full kit for? (when i decide to do the rears)

[SeptemberSquall]

fyi the koni coilover sleeves are around $25-35 each, not $200

T

Yeah, RRP for a set of sleeves, lower seats, locking rings, and upper seats was about the $200 from the Koni distributor when I bought mine.

[.T.]

depends on spring diameter & strut diameter, but anything from around $125 upwards per strut for the parts.
this does not include fitting to the strut of course, or the spring

T

[45aken]

also guys, since i bought a alloy thread, i am making some rings to weld to the strut to hold the threaded tube at the bottom. i suppose you could tack the alloy to the steel tube, but the tack wont be too good as the alloy would melt quickly.

what have people done to stop the threaded tube spining around the strut when adjusting the seat? grub screws?

another area where i was looking at was the cut in the strut. since you have to grind out the weld (to put the tube over it) you weaken the joint. i was thinking to combat this by making another ring that sits on the top of the tube(welded), holding it down, and therefore making a sockolet (if the threaded tube was attached to the rings) to strengthen the strut. (the weld from shrotening would have the threaded tube covering it). has anyone done this, or is the strength of the shock/grinded weld/tube enough to support the forces of hard driving/drift?
i suppose you could grind off the old spring seat completely then make the cut for shortening at the bottom of the strut, which would allow you to leave the weld without grinding, but just not look as clean.

[roadsailing]

PLEASE don't do this yourself, no offence but it seems you don't have much idea of what to do.

there is NO WAY you can weld alluminium to steel, ever. to secure the alloy sleeves to your struts, i would weld rings either side of the sleeves (but i suppose you dont really need one at the top) that have an inside diameter such that they will slip fit on to the struts, and an outside diameter as larger as or slightly larger than the threaded sleeve diameter.

on shortening the strut, i believe the done thing is to grind the spring seat off, the cut and shut it so you cut out the bit that used to be attatched to the saddle. you can also just cut down the strut and have it re-threaded to suit the "shock retaining screw"

dont cut and shut it at the bottom of the strut, as the torque loading will be higher than at the top.

[.T.]

actually you can fuse alloy to steel, it jsut is not economic to do it
problem you will have with the alloy sleeves is with them turning & coroding ot the spring seat - hence no adjustment. simply make up the retaining colar with a "key" and key the sleeve to fit it - simple. prefer using steel sleeves as they are stronger & longer lasting - also if you shorten the strut you weld them under where the sleve is welded - & if you have to have to do this, do it at the top of the strut.
when i build coilovers i turn off the spring seet in the lathe - that is the preferred way of removing the seat over using the angle grinder.

T

[45aken]

mate i have the full idea of what i am doing, im just asking these questions as some people here may have had their coilovers for over a year, and may have come across problems that could have been fixed when they built them. everything you said i already knew, i was asking what people have done to stop the thread spinning around the strut, and what people have done to strengthen the weld from shortening the strut, and T just verified what i was thinking anyways. please read what im asking before making assumptions on my intellect. i am going with the key idea, which i worked out the other day.