TA22+1UZ = Help Please

[Swiftboy]

Hey Guys.
Hello from the LWC (Long White Cloud or Sheep Shagga Land or whatever ya wanna flame me)

Im more of a Nissan man as Im a salesman at a Nissan Specialist wreckers.
I managed to pick up a non rusty TA22 rolling body,
planning on the 1UZ conversion, (Dont worry I work in the trade and know lots of willing participants)
Just want to pick ya brains if possible.

Would the Pug/Corona/Hilux Brake conversion gimme enough stopping power to pull up a V8?
What should I use for the rear? Also Diff and shafts?

And also having a almost unlimited access to 2nd hand Nissan stuff should I try for a IRS rear end out of say a S13 or S14?
Steering rack out of Old corolla be good?
I know Im too lazy to search so your welcome to flame away!!!

Thanks
Muzz

[Screamn_Sleeka]

No one will want to help you if you say you are too lazy to do a quick search...

There is currently a TA22 + Rack and pinion steering thread, search for it.
Old roll rack is ruled out in the first page. Custom job, try a centre pull rack.

S13 IRS will be way to wide, but you can modify anything with the right money and equipment.
Most people get a toyota G series diff (from old Hilux's), they are still live axel, but strong. Search for this as well. Other option is a old Volvo diff.

That brake upgrade is decent, and enough for a stock UZ.

Id consider a different engine to a UZ, look at the problems other people have when trying to get these engine to fit.
There is a guy putting one is a new lexus IS and someone putting one in an old MX23, both these cars are designed for inline 6 cylinders and have double wish bone suspension and they still have plenty of clearance issues.

[Swiftboy]

Bugger......
My 1U is already on the water from Jap Land!!!

Thanx for the reply though pal!

[ace]

It will fit but get ready for everything from the engine mounts, bellhousing/clutch, gearbox mounts, fuel setup, exhaust, ECU, tailshaft etc to be custom/new....
The brake upgrade will be good, rear discs or bigger drums will help too. Remember that just because you're putting a V8 into a car, it doesn't mean you'll be going any faster on public roads. If you're adding extra weight to the TA22 then yeh you might want bigger brakes for safety.
Yeh you probably don't want the standard T series diff, even if you've modded it with disc brakes, LSD and thicker axels. Still won't like the 1UZ torque.
Early G series hilux (RN25) diffs are narrow so they get used often.
F series diffs out of MX13s (i think?) aren't too wide but still need modding, you can get easy disc brakes onto the sides of these and LSDs out of MA61 supras (or brand new) so they're also used....
A few people have used Rear volvo diffs, supposedly strong, rear discs, not sure on LSDs though, theres a big thread about volvo diffs here.

Are there any narrow+strong old nissan diffs? Like R31 etc?

[6BOOST]

The easiest diff upgrade you could give yourself would be a borg warner 28 spline out of a falcon, something latish. Disk braked, and the 28 spline axles will handle 400rwhp with some common sense. Diff ratio's are available in 2.7-4.11's, but the biggest piece of advise I can give about getting it shortened, is just spend the $$ upfront and buy some billet axles. COntact a company here in Aus called QPAAC(0754987788) and ask for their cheaper billet axles, they are about $170 each in any length you want, resplines stockers will break over and over again. Actually, come to think about it, you can use the short side axle as the long side, then you only have to buy one, this will give you diff length around 1400mm, perfect.

A WB holden 1" bore master cylinder will bolt straight to the celica booster, I have one in my corolla and it works a treat. This with pug brakes should give you the stopping power, diff ratio choice, and diff strength, needed to handle your conversion.

6BOOST

[jfallen]

And also having a almost unlimited access to 2nd hand Nissan stuff should I try for a IRS rear end out of say a S13 or S14?

Hey Muzz,
don't bother with the Hilux pug piss farting about, just put S14 front suspension in it. you'll need to do a "cut and shut" on the control arm, but then you've got S14 4pots, and uber avalability of silvia coilovers, caster rods, etc... (which you admit you have access to)

Wouldn't bother with IRS at the back, just get adjustable arms and set it up right with some decient stuts and springs. Adjustable panard rod is a must. And since it's a TA22, it has a T-series rear end, which means every sprinter (AE86) part in the book will fit in.

It's going to be a bit of a burnout machine whichever way you cut it, since it's light and will have a powerful V8 in it. If you intend on drag racing it, you might want to look at a stronger rear diff setup.

Jordan

[Swiftboy]

Hey Muzz,
don't bother with the Hilux pug piss farting about, just put S14 front suspension in it. you'll need to do a "cut and shut" on the control arm, but then you've got S14 4pots, and uber avalability of silvia coilovers, caster rods, etc... (which you admit you have access to)

Jordan

Hmmm sounds good, Ive got a bit of non turbo stuff in stock at the mo so Im going to have a looksie tomorrow and see what I can mock up (While the boss aint looking , can prob find turbo stuff on the partslink but most wreckers want your first born for it!!!.

[Swiftboy]

It will fit but get ready for everything from the engine mounts, bellhousing/clutch, gearbox mounts, fuel setup, exhaust, ECU, tailshaft etc to be custom/new....
The brake upgrade will be good, rear discs or bigger drums will help too. Remember that just because you're putting a V8 into a car, it doesn't mean you'll be going any faster on public roads. If you're adding extra weight to the TA22 then yeh you might want bigger brakes for safety.
Yeh you probably don't want the standard T series diff, even if you've modded it with disc brakes, LSD and thicker axels. Still won't like the 1UZ torque.
Early G series hilux (RN25) diffs are narrow so they get used often.
F series diffs out of MX13s (i think?) aren't too wide but still need modding, you can get easy disc brakes onto the sides of these and LSDs out of MA61 supras (or brand new) so they're also used....
A few people have used Rear volvo diffs, supposedly strong, rear discs, not sure on LSDs though, theres a big thread about volvo diffs here.

Are there any narrow+strong old nissan diffs? Like R31 etc?

Heya bud, yeah I know its going to be a biggie but Im keen as mustard.
Got the UZ coming, got Wbox off local trademe website, got link comp from agent. Weve got a few guys here in NZ who have made a couple of these for targa days and have bellhousing similarto dellows autos ones for roughly same price in NZ$$$$.
As I am more of a "numbers man" in the auto trade this kinda info is excellent!!! My last project made the readers rides in last June or Julys Fast Fours or Hot 4s? I cant remember and didnt save a copy just look for a Red R33 Skyline with the plate CYPHER

[takai]

Dont touch Dellows, really dont touch Dellows.

The 1UZ does fit, a guy over here has one in his TA22, and last time i checked it was going 4WD at a rapid rate of knots.
Start out with G-series diff, and a W58 and run from there. The R154 will require more than just massaging to get it to fit. But that can come later.
The other issue may be getting the exhaust headers around the steering box. But that can be solved by going to RacoonPeanut...

If you are intending to go 16" or bigger wheels then ditch the Corona/Peugot/Hilux brake package and go straight for the Skyline R33/BA Falcoon on Cressida strut setup. This will also give you 5studs on the front if you go with the MX83 gear. You will have to figure out the steering arms/LCAs for yourself though.

[goldta22]

Im also from the land of the long white cloud and thought of putting a 1u in my 22 it will definitly be a kool car but it will be quite heavy in the front and will afect the cars handling quite alot as they are a very well balenced car with the four in them

[takai]

Im also from the land of the long white cloud and thought of putting a 1u in my 22 it will definitly be a kool car but it will be quite heavy in the front and will afect the cars handling quite alot as they are a very well balenced car with the four in them

The 1UZ isnt that heavy, mainly due to the all alloy nature of the beast.
Im struggling to recall atm, but i seem to remember only 20kg or so more than the 3SGTE...

[Swiftboy]

Yea I thought so too, alloy block and all, a 1UZ with a W58 box weighs up to about 466lbs or 205kg (.......grabs calculator).
The wrecking boys at my place love getting the exchange SR engines cause they get a lot of alloy off em and coppers big at the moment but we waiting for a degranulator machine so we can schred the looms etc......

My best advice is to get real chummy with a engineer who has got a decent workshops, mine is a jetboat builder and he specialises in Jetsprinters, he grabs a VQ30 engine out of the late model maximas and ripping off most of the electrical crap runs bare bones setup with link ecu and custom made inlet manifold with 3 throttle bodys linked up, he reakons he gets 300hp at the impellor woot woot.......
These things sound like a baby eight when cranked over with headers only about 2 feet long straight to atmosphere!!

RacoonPeanut..

What ya reakon, stick with toyota or jam in a nissan of same length? theres not many with manual steer apart from old N14 sentras or older.....

[jfallen]

there's a thread going about R&P into a TA22, but with a V8 in there you might walk into a whole bunch of nasties, with fitment of exhausts, brake booster and possibly your steering assembly...

Jordan

[Lambolica]

I think you should be looking at test fitting the engine and see what clearances you have for the exhaust before trying to do the R & P conversion.

S13 Coilovers should work in the front S14 only if you really want 5 stud. Once the engine is fitted then start looking at the Rack and suitable lower control arms etc. there will be sweet bugger nothing room for the exhaust around the steering column so exhaust and steering column may both need to be custom to get clearances. You might have problems with the height of the engine as well dependant on the Crossmember

In terms of weight the 1UZ weigh around 170KG (no box) and the VVTi ones possibly a little lighter.

Cheers
Simon

[75Ta22LT]

Theres a good site floating about where a guy actually has a whole heap of 1uz into '22 pics up. Just google buddy, it'll turn up.

The main issue I think he had, was bonnet clearance, there wasnt ANY lol.

He had modified the engine and gearbox crossmember positioning and the mounts aswell.

The engine was mounted AS LOW as possible in the engine bay, but he still needed to slice a nice big hole in the bonnet for clearance.

Id definitely consider throwing in a chassis kit. I have seen the '22's nicely warp some front strut towers with 18rg burnouts. 1UZ would rip the little beast apart.

Oh, expect it to steer like nothing else, but as far as actuall handling goes, don't bother, you'll end up sideways or facing backwards 90% of the time.