1JZ-GTE fault code 14

[TTMX83]

Yep, thats right. I hope it isn't ECU in mine because I seem to remember I sold the spare, lol.

[TTMX83]

Just an update, I got my hands on a new ignitor, threw it in and there was no change. I'm in the process of going through the loom, looking for shorts/broken wires. I was looking at the wiring diagram and noticed that the TPS is somehow linked to the MAP sensor. I have no knowledge about this side of the car, any help would be appreciated.

Changed the fuel filter, it needed doing as I can't remember if it was done at all, still no change. There is another MAP sensor on the way. I am yet to take out the ECU to look for leaking capacitors.

If I leave the car for a day, on the first crank it runs for about 3 seconds, every time I try to start it after that, I'm lucky to get it to run for half a second. It definatly has fuel and definatly spark until something tries to shut it down. At no time has there ever been any electrical burning smell. Changed the plugs (Again) BKR6E's gapped at 0.8mm.

When fault code 14 comes up, it is for the ignition, but what senors/hardware is included in that diagnosis?

Could it possibly be a cam angle sensor, anything else?

I have no bloody idea!!

Merry Christmas all.

Cheers Brad.

[EldarO]

swap the ECU for someones spare.

Eldar.O.

[TTMX83]

swap the ECU for someones spare.

Eldar.O.

Oh, believe me, I want to, but there is a servere lack of 1J converted MX83's in Warrnambool It would solve a lot of things though.........

[EldarO]

im sure someone on toymods would be happy to lend you one, providing you pay postage and agree to take care of it, i know i would if i had one spare.

PM a few people that you think might have a spare laying around.

Eldar.O.

[LeeRoy]

My 4age is doing a similar thing with it throwing up a code 14 error - ign signal circuit. Have changed distributor and it went away for a little bit but now its comming back. When driving the tacho drops off sometimes to zero and the engine occasionally stalls when stationary. Any ideas?

p.s sorry to hijack

- LeeRoy

[cambelt]

I had a 4AFE bring up code 14 last week , running rough and sometimes stalling , i changed the coil but it still did it , pulled the igniter out , cleaned all the contacts and code 14 went away , so in this case its either the igniter or comunication between it and the ecu, bearing in mind the 4afe has the igniter inside the dizzy so it gets dam hot inside there.
Dave

[LeeRoy]

Cheers mate

- LeeRoy

[TTMX83]

OK. I have had a chance to look at the car in more detail. Following the flow chart for troubleshooting code 14, I have found that the ignitor isn't getting/giving enough voltage as per step 4 and 8 below.

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_14.htm

I know for sure the ignitor is fine, I have had three different ones in the car over the break.

The ignitor has enough voltage supply. I think there is a problem with the ECU or at least a problem with the power supply to it.

All earths are good.

Any ideas as to what I can check now??

[Danners]

Have you visibly checked the ECU internals? Apparently the caps are prone to blowing, and leak causing strange errors.

[TTMX83]

Have you visibly checked the ECU internals? Apparently the caps are prone to blowing, and leak causing strange errors.

Yep, replaced them on the weekend as a long shot, there were 2 leaking.

Made no difference.

[The Witzl]

Yep, replaced them on the weekend as a long shot, there were 2 leaking.

Made no difference.

You'll probably find that them having leaked has possibly damaged other parts of the PCB and/or components.

Another point to note is that apparently the coil packs are prone to cracking under extreme heat - a common occurence in Australia - which leads to a spark shorting out to the head and thus a failed IGf signal... hence code 14.

Try to get your hands on a spare set of coil packs and replace them one by one.

Remember, when fault finding you should ALWAYS replace/test things one at a time, thus completely isolating and uniquely identifying your fault instead of blinding band-aiding what you "think" might've been the problem.

[Mos]

OK. I have had a chance to look at the car in more detail. Following the flow chart for troubleshooting code 14, I have found that the ignitor isn't getting/giving enough voltage as per step 4 and 8 below.

What voltage were you getting? Are you measuring on the ECU pins or the ignitor? You'd really need to take a look at it with a scope.

Yep, replaced them on the weekend as a long shot, there were 2 leaking.

Does anyone have photos of leaking caps? Just out of curiousity, because I haven't seen any faulty components in any of the ECUs that I've ever opened up (quite a few).

Remember, when fault finding you should ALWAYS replace/test things one at a time, thus completely isolating and uniquely identifying your fault instead of blinding band-aiding what you "think" might've been the problem.

OR another approach is to replace *all* suspect parts, then start swapping in original parts one by one until the point(s) of failure is located. In any case, keep close tabs on what you have replaced and what the effects are otherwise you will not locate the faulty item. This is a perfectly valid approach, with the advantage that it will more easily pick up multiple faulty components, at the expense of having all the parts to change over.
Some "professional" services will conduct repairs this way, but then not follow through to find the actual fault, and charge you for all the parts.

Mos.

[TTMX83]

Mos: I measured voltage at both the ECU and ignitor connectors, I know I need a scope. Thing is the car won't even run for more than a second.

I was reading well under 0.5V at above points, it is hard to do when all the car will do is crank over...

Here are pics of the last ECU I had in it with leaking caps, this current ECU was much the same:



The Witzl: That is what I have been doing, just being so far from anything (Warrnambool Vic) is making it hard to obtain parts. It has basically been a process of buy a spare part off a member on here and if it wasn't the problem, well, hey, I have a spare.

I have checked all the coils and they are OK.

I am thinking the ECU just isn't getting enough power so I am in the process of chasing all the wiring up to see if there might be a fault.

Cheers Brad.

[TTMX83]

Update time. The ECU was the culprit.....

Thanks to all that helped out.

Cheers Brad.