You've got to redrill one of the bolt holes on the crossmember.
Spacing the crossmember down is something to avoid. By that I mean dont do it.
it looks like the cross member has been spaced down. is this the case....
also how did the bolt holes line up with the original holes in the chasis. or where new wholes made....also, the position of the crossmember, does it stay mostly in the same position....
also, has this set up been tested on the road....
sorry lots of little questions....(my apologies if this has been covered earlier in the thread...it is a long thread) Jamie
You've got to redrill one of the bolt holes on the crossmember.
Spacing the crossmember down is something to avoid. By that I mean dont do it.
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
What is wrong with "lowering the crossmember"?
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
cross member has been spaced down to ensure the position of the lca pivot is close to the original locaton/height.Originally Posted by 79GT
i used the rear holes on the cross member lined up with the rear holes on the chassis. The front holes need to be drilled to suit the front chassis holes.
Has not been road tested as yet.
No worries mate, more questions the better.
Leeroy, tell me more about not spacing the cross member down. I should say, that ox section has been used on the ends of the cross member to get the spacing. So it is still solid mounted as such.
I can't see a problem in spacing a crossmember down, so long as your spacers are solid and spread the load, correct size and tensile bolts are used etc? Especially if it's ensuring the LCA positions are factory.
1976 RA23 Celica - 3SGE Blacktop Beams Powered!
1994 KZN130 Surf - Daily 3ltr Turbo Diesel Goodness!
Your moving the control arm pivot points down, and although it might put them back to standard, chances are if your doing an r+p conversion then your car is probably lowered. If you car is lowered you want the pivot point higher than standard to return control arm angles as close to stock as possible. This negates the need for roll center adjusters or minimises the need for them.
Saying this, if you are stuck with that height due to engine arrangement or whatever then you don't really have a choice.
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
Leeroy is spot on. If anything the ideal location would be to raise the cross member so much so you recess the chassis.. However this is illegal and engineers dont like it, no matter how you attempt to perform it.
well ok then. thanks for the info guys, it all is beggining to make sense.cheers
most engineers shy away from any crossmember modifications (aside from untacking/rewelding mounts)
But are modifications such as this permitted? I can't see how this is any different to chopping the ends off and welding on the RHS angle iron that people seem to do as you are still welding the crossmember. This gets by engineering so provided that the sectioning in the middle is strengthened enough when welded it should also be ok or is welding clearly a no no?
The NSW RTA frowns on any "vertical" weld through a structural member. So when lapping or joining on a chassis you simply weld the top and bottom horizontal part of the joint.
Fishplating <> is allowable, as there are no vertical welds..
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
i really dont get your guys laws when it comes to this kind of stuff aye(comming from nz) over here pretty much if you use a thicker metal and a certified welder does it then its all ok and gets through sweet as, must make life tough for you guys
I'd imagine welding angle on the ends would get through a little easier perhaps? Most of these conversions (including mine) seem to do it so that the new bolt holes go through both the angle and the original crossmember metal, so it's not purely relying on a weld to hold your engine up/suspension on.
I sent images to a local engineer here in QLD and he had no problem with the angle method in theory. We'll see how it goes when I get my car approved in the next few months.
1976 RA23 Celica - 3SGE Blacktop Beams Powered!
1994 KZN130 Surf - Daily 3ltr Turbo Diesel Goodness!
Any updates on this? How did your set up go stidnam? LeeRoy? there's been some great progress made in here guys, will definately be a big help to me and others in the future.
Cheers,
Doug
Currently nursing a nice old celica back to good health
Yep, this has been done. In fact, I know the guy who originally worked out the front brake conversion for the TA22 using the hilux calipers etc. He also worked out how to fit a rack and pinion into his TA22.
Problem is his brake idea got out there and marketed and he got nothing. Since that time (many years ago now) he has been very reluctant to share his rack and pinion conversion because of the same reason...
Having said that, I beleive he used a KE70 rack and pinion and then used tie rods from an AE86... Really not sure on all the info at this stage but also planning to give this a go in my TA22 in the near future.
Cheers,
Simon
Bookmarks