4AGE Misfiring and Stalling - Problem found...maybe

[EVOSTi]

atleast check the coil before you spend any money, if you dont know how to check it then swap it with one out of another car if you know someone else with a 4age.

the coil has two series of windings inside it, each has a specific amount of resistance and if the insulation on the windings deteriorates it shorts out on itself reducing the resistance. the way you measure the resistance on each coil winding is to put an ohm meter on the pos and neg ternminal for the primary winding, and the neg terminal and and lead post for the secondary winding.
i cant remember what the figure is for each winding but its probably in the workshop manual somewhere.

[LeeRoy]

Okay time for an update. The dizzy has been changed and the problem went away for about 2 weeks and then returned. On a couple of occasions it has died while at a set of lights then failed to start up again.

After this happened i jiggled a few wires around comming from the dizzy, the coil, and the igniter, and then it went away again for another few weeks. More recently it has been dying everyday and i got around to yesterday checking continuity between all wires and the ecu and the igniter and coil.

From this all 4 dizzy wires gave solid continuity, the 2 wires between the coil and igniter gave solid continuity, and the igniter to ecu (BY coloured wire, pin out IGF) wire was fine. The other wire from igniter to ecu (straight black colour) and pin out IGT gave me a scattered beeping and NON constant continuity. At some points it wouldnt even give continuity at all.

NOW, what is the solution for replacing this wire in the loom??? Idealy id like to just tie a new wire to the old one and pull the old one through while at the same time pull the new one through also but the wires are taped within the worm tubing. What are the other options?

- LeeRoy

[Grega]

leeroy, at least before you go chopping and changing tie a wire to it as a test. also have a good look at the loom to see if its rubbed on something or its just not the connection at the back of the ignitor plug thats loose?

[EVOSTi]

i bet you still havent checked the coil.

["Z" UTE]

Toyota wiring, typically uses a straight black wire for ignition coil trigger from either hall effect sensor or points. So I would not expect full continuity.

cheers Chuck.

[LeeRoy]

Have not checked coil - i will do that soon.

Black wire goes from ignitor directly to IGT pinout on ECU and does not bypass through anything. As mentioned above while the car was off i had both the ecu plug and ignitor plug disconnected and the wire was giving continuity as a solid beep and then at other times the continuity was either intermittent or non existent. All other wires on the ignition side of things gave solid continuity.

AFAIK code 14 is an IGT error which appears after 8 consecutive signal absenses correct?

- LeeRoy

[LeeRoy]

Okay well i got fed up with it and didn't have the time to fix it so i took it to 2 auto elecs both of which had no luck finiding what was wrong with it.

Now this arvo i changed over the Ecu, Coil, and Ignitor for ones i bought the other day and just went for about a 5-10min drive and it hasent played up at all. The other day i had cleaned all connections and checked them out and they seemed fine. After doing this almost as soon as i got out of the driveway it was already playing up and when i was driving it then it was playing up the whole time i was driving so hopefully its one of those 3 things i just changed.

I'll leave these in for a little while (maybe 1 week) and hopefully this should be enough time to determine whether the fault lies within those components. I guess if its something else then it can only be wiring, and if it is one of these 3 then ill start changing them back over till i find out which one it was. Will update when i find out more.

- LeeRoy

[LeeRoy]

Okay well it wasnt the computer, ignitor, or coil as the fault was still present with those 3 in. Checked all wiring between coil and ignitor and that seemed fine.

Upon peeling back the wiring from the distrbutor i noticed some of the insulation from all 4 wires had either been previously cut away or just disentegrated from heat and movement as the plug is fairly free to hang and wobble if it wants to.

Have repaired this wiring and been driving prob 1hr all up and the fault has not showed again. My guess is that the wires were shorting out on each other therefore giving either no signal or a false signal to the ecu stopping it from sending an IGF signal hence the code 14 fault.

- LeeRoy