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Thread: 3sgte rwd conversion

  1. #16
    is the bestest Conversion King LeeRoy's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    If you are using a corona bellhousing you need to get one that mates to a W series box (if this is the way you want to go of course). Most corona's use the bog warmer (Borg Warner) gearbox for which the bellhousing is not suited to the W series gearboxes.
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  2. #17
    Low Down Style Domestic Engineer Johnzoku's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    the plan was to pick up an sa63 bellhousing as i have a W57 in waiting, but the thought of running a bog winie had crossed my mind, for evey rona you find with a W box, there 10 with BW's.

    do these require the same modifactions as the S to W bellhousings? or has no one bothered to take the time because of there fail...ness?

  3. #18
    Forum Sponsor Carport Converter TurboRA28's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by xcedricx
    but then again not having to get something mechined is a bonus as well. a normal manual rwd spigot bearing should be enough.
    A normal manual rwd spigot bearing won't be enough unless you machine the bellhousing down 5 - 10mm.

    I used a 19mm spigot which was 7mm? wider than standard if I remember correctly.
    That meant I didn't have to machine the bellhousing.
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  4. #19
    Low Down Style Domestic Engineer Johnzoku's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    so jsut to get this clear.

    the only advantage of using the 4Y bellhousing over the 2/3S bellhousing is the starter and parts are on the other side.

    and to negate the need to mechine the bellhousing down, i need to run the larger 19mm spigot bearing?

    right?

  5. #20
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    It depends which generation 3s you use.

    Mine is gen3 so, I machined my bellhousing because the clutch wasn't slipping over the gearbox input shaft spline enough (3sgte ORC clutch and flywheel) .
    10mm off, (9mm front, 1mm back) and I can now use a normal spigot bearing and the clutch sits nicely on the input shaft.

    Next step was to sort the clutch as Leroy points out. I did this by extending the throw-out fork pivot by some amount that I can't recall. Might have been 9mm?

    Then, an adapting plate for the starter to move it away from the block and forwards 6mm and it's done!


    If you are using gen1, the flywheel dimensions are different so the clutch engagement/starter motor issues will likely disappear. You'll have to use a double row spigot bearing but there should be no need to machine the bell housing.

    The only reason I kept the gen3 flywheel and clutch is that I discovered an ORC jobbie in there when I wrecked the half-cut.
    So, I made the mods that allowed me to use it. I actually had gen1 gear lined up to use before I found the lightened fw and sports clutch issue came up.

    I've since heard that the gen1 flywheel bolts PCD is different to gen2 and 3 but since I've not needed to use the gen1 stuff I didn't bother to compare them. I will get a caliper onto them at some stage......
    Last edited by af300e; 22-01-2009 at 09:36 AM.

  6. #21
    Forum Sponsor Carport Converter TurboRA28's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    I used a Gen2 block & custom flywheel, so the flywheel sits further away from the block and helps with said clutch issues.
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  7. #22
    Low Down Style Domestic Engineer Johnzoku's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3sgte rwd conversion

    sooo, then i guess it all comes down to what motor im using.

    im planning on running the 1st gen motor (most plentlyful right???) with the 225mm clutch. ill just play it by ear and see what i can dig up.

    thanks for the help guys!

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