7age: how to?

[Poggy]

Just out of curiosity, how do the weights compare?

Stock rod weights 500grams argo rod weights 600grams

[Ben Wilson]

Fair enough, while I'm all in favour of stronger components, I'm really not a big fan of increasing the weight of reciprocating components by that much.

[Poggy]

Fair enough, while I'm all in favour of stronger components, I'm really not a big fan of increasing the weight of reciprocating components by that much.

should catch up with some lighter pistons

[ap7]

Where did you get the 7afe argo rods? And if you don't mind me asking how much were they?

[Poggy]

From argo machining around 1300-1500

[dan05k]

yeah, but blacktops have a short stroke, so they dont need too be as strong.
less load on the rods with a short stroke.
i have a 7AGTE in my sprinter, not running yet, has a T28 turbo and link engine managment running it.
im not expecting it too last all that long as it only runs stock internals.
kept stock pistons as that brings the compression ratio down too an acepatble level for the turbo.
stock rods that have been crack tested and shot peened.
bigport head with larger exasut ports and polishing
450cc injectors
im actually an engine builder so i know that its defienlty not going to be something that will have a long life.
im going to limit revs too 7000 and boost to about 10psi.
the idea was to experimant with how much power it can actually produce, not how long it will last.
if i like what i find i will build a bullet proof one.
aftermarket rods are availbale from argo and P.A.R, so i will be using them in my next engine along with oversize 4agze pistions.
should be capable of producing more power due too being able to rev harder without breaking shit.
the head is capable of flowing enough to produce power at higher revs.

[DX20VT]

Thats got the rods covered, but its a pity 7 extra ribs cant be bought for the 7A block this is my concern about forced inducting the 7A, I know people can reach 300hp, but even so is there unreasonable wear because the block isn't as rigid as a 4A block?

people make 500hp on a 7AGTE so maybe the blocks are strong enough.

[nick.parker]

people make 500hp on a 7AGTE so maybe the blocks are strong enough.

Well there is a fellow kiwi http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=7agte who has approx 300rwkw and does 10 second (just) quarters. So I dont doubt you can make big hp. What I wonder is how will its life span compare to a similar powered 4AG? I am guessing the ribs aren't just for decoration on the 4A, which addmittedly is designed to rev harder than a 7A...
Cheers, Nick

[DX20VT]

I shouldn't be letting secrets out, but for the next 12hour race in Malaysia we may be running a 7AFE in one of the cars. It'll be limited to 7200rpm for the full 12 hours.
It's got totally stock rods, and brand new Toyota rod bolts.

That was a while ago.

How did it last? and how well did it run?

Also, people are saying about the strength of the 7A rods,
Compare the 7A and the 4A rod BOLTS.

That's probably half the problem, the bolts are no where near as big as the head suggests.

[Billzilla]

That was a while ago.

How did it last? and how well did it run?

Also, people are saying about the strength of the 7A rods,
Compare the 7A and the 4A rod BOLTS.

That's probably half the problem, the bolts are no where near as big as the head suggests.

We haven't run it yet sorry. Maybe in a few months.
The 4A rod bolts come down into the rod from the top and use nuts to hold the cap on, 7A's have a single bolt that comes up into the cap and screw into the top half of the rod.

[DX20VT]

We haven't run it yet sorry. Maybe in a few months.
The 4A rod bolts come down into the rod from the top and use nuts to hold the cap on, 7A's have a single bolt that comes up into the cap and screw into the top half of the rod.

Will keep and eye out for how it goes then.

Was more commenting on the diameter of the rod bolts than the type.
they shrink down just after the bolt enters the rod.

[Billzilla]

Will keep and eye out for how it goes then.

Was more commenting on the diameter of the rod bolts than the type.
they shrink down just after the bolt enters the rod.

Yeah they're waisted, so they are a stretch bolt and so can only be used the once then thrown out.

[DX20VT]

Thread revival.


How is everyone's 7A projects going?

I have 10 weeks till the first event with mine, so trying hard to get it all done by then.

[ap7]

I am planning to build a 7agte as well.

Currently, I have a 20v Blacktop with a Blitz turbo kit. The car is running a factory ECU with an Access (Blitz) chip inside the ecu and an extra attachment in the factory ECU for boost.

I am at a stage where i have sort of had enough with the car!

There are rattling noises coming out of the engine bay when I take off that I can't figure out. Also, I recently changed the fuel pump from stock to a Walbro high flow unit and now the car will go up to 5500rpm and not go any further!

Anyway, the below is what i was planning to do for a 7agte conversion:

7afe block;
7afe crankshaft;
20v Blacktop head;
Argo rods;
Forged pistons (not sure which brand as yet?);
1.5mm gasket to bring the compression down (not sure what would be the correct compression as yet?);
4age gearbox with an LSD;
Adjustable cam gears (not sure where to get these?);
Aftermarket crankshaft pulley (not sure where to get these?);
Aftermarket ECU (not sure which brand?);
KKK turbo from the Blitz kit;
Intercooler from the Blitz kit;
Intake manifold from the Blitz kit;
Exhaust manifold from the Blitz kit;
Wastegate from the Blitz kit;
Sard Injectors 800c;
TurboSmart 1200 fuel pressure regulator.

Any comments on the above and information on the items above with a "?" mark will be greatly appreciated.

Also, how do I tackle the water pump issue? Someone mentioned that the flow direction in the 20v is different from the 7afe.

Or do you think I should just stick to the 4agte setup.

[nick.parker]

FWIW depending on the style of factory regulator, a few people have had issues with installing the Walbro (255LPH, 500hp) pumps on otherwise factory EFI (including me). In my case the pump moved so much fuel that the banjo fitting on my fuel regulator was restricting the flow back to the tank and increasing my fuel pressure a fair bit (the higher pressure was not regulated) I know this has happened to several others. The consensus is that for a lot of application the 500hp version of the pump is WAY overkill for a lot of stock EFI setups...in my case I found a different regulator that was less restrictive and anyway I am building up a twinscrew 4AGZE (and allowing for the possibility of swapping to 7A block) to run around 200rwkw....

edit :: I bought a 7AFE from CVAP for $600 excl shipping.