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Thread: 7age: how to?

  1. #91
    Forum Member Grease Monkey ap7's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Do you think an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator fix the problem?

  2. #92
    SC14'd Member Domestic Engineer nick.parker's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Possibly.....

    If you can be bothered swapping back to the stock pump you could be really sure the problem is related to the pump. I bought a $30 fuel pressure gauge off ebay and a guy at work drilled and tapped my fuel rail, thats how I determined my fuel pressure was too high and also not changing up and down with manifold pressure. I used a 100kW small-port 4AGE regulator that doesn't have the banjo fitting, rather a push on pipe fitting with a 90 deg pressed bend...that fixed the fuel pressure problem for me.
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  3. #93
    Learner Driver Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Quote Originally Posted by ap7
    I am planning to build a 7agte as well.

    Currently, I have a 20v Blacktop with a Blitz turbo kit. The car is running a factory ECU with an Access (Blitz) chip inside the ecu and an extra attachment in the factory ECU for boost.

    Also, how do I tackle the water pump issue? Someone mentioned that the flow direction in the 20v is different from the 7afe.

    Or do you think I should just stick to the 4agte setup.
    Since you have a blacktop you havew most of the stuff you'll need.

    just use the blacktop oil pump, water pump and fittings etc etc on the 7a block.


    Matt
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  4. #94
    umop apisdn Chief Engine Builder twentyEight's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    OK, so time to dig up an old thread...

    I've been having thoughts lately about what to put in my AE71, and a 4A-GE/7A-FE hybrid is starting to look like a feasable option.

    I haven't had a chance to figure out everything yet, but what parts are required to make it all work?

    I also can't decide whether to use a 16V or 20V head... Obviously, with the 20V head, this would require mods to the dissie and water housings still would it not? Apart from the added bonus of ITBs, is there a substantial benefit?

    Takai, did you end up writing your Guide on this?
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  5. #95
    Forum Member Grease Monkey ap7's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Quote Originally Posted by twentyEight View Post
    OK, so time to dig up an old thread...

    I've been having thoughts lately about what to put in my AE71, and a 4A-GE/7A-FE hybrid is starting to look like a feasable option.

    I haven't had a chance to figure out everything yet, but what parts are required to make it all work?

    I also can't decide whether to use a 16V or 20V head... Obviously, with the 20V head, this would require mods to the dissie and water housings still would it not? Apart from the added bonus of ITBs, is there a substantial benefit?

    Takai, did you end up writing your Guide on this?
    Regarding a 20v head, its all to do with flow! Standard 20v head will flow alot more then a standard 16v head.

    You also leave yourself plenty of room for more power latter when you decide to go turbo!

    You also have the vvt!

  6. #96
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Im building one of these at the moment as well. Its sort of crunch time as far as deciding what to and what not to do.

    Ive dismantled a 7a and a bigport so now I just have to decide how far I want to go with machining and whether or not to go aftermarket with rods and other elements. Will have the usual clean up and reconditioning of the head.

    Will be left NA and running the standard inlet manifold with tvis removed. Have an emanage, crowe 272 cams, and some adjustable cam gears. Planning on using smallport pistons and running a stock toyota headgasket.

    This is just for my daily driver though I'd love to get out on the track for the occasional grip practice day, hillclimb or motorkhana.

    Im slowly learning just how expensive an engine build can be, especially when you're student

  7. #97
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Quote Originally Posted by 200Boy View Post

    Will be left NA
    If your staying NA you'll need revs,

    and if your going to use rev's you'll neeed rods,

    so either put aftermarket rods in it or stay 4AGE IMO.
    - KE70 Corolla Dx -
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  8. #98
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    these so called weak rods are the same ones that they use in the boosted 7afte in the ae111 sportivos right? not to disagree with those who know, it just seems strange to spend $600 on rods that wont even have to take 200hp.

  9. #99
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Quote Originally Posted by 200Boy View Post
    these so called weak rods are the same ones that they use in the boosted 7afte in the ae111 sportivos right? not to disagree with those who know, it just seems strange to spend $600 on rods that wont even have to take 200hp.
    Not 100% sure what rods they have, but would presume they are the same.

    Can probably make large HP with stock rods as long as you dont use many revs.
    Take a rod, sit it and the floor and how much pressure are you going to have to push on it with to break it? More than you can apply probably.

    But what about the other way?
    It the pistons going up at a million miles and hour and the rod trying to pull it down again that causes the breakages, which is why car throw rods at revs.

    What's the redline on a 7afte in a sportivo? 6500?

    Imagaine a 4age with a 6500rpm redline, a waste of time,
    which is why I still say iy your going to go NA you will want to do rods as you''l need to rev it with the GE head on it.

    Otherwise, boost it and lower the redline.
    - KE70 Corolla Dx -
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  10. #100
    Zub Zub Domestic Engineer Gavatron's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    As above. The Sportivos have the same rods, but don't need revs to make the power. The turbo is all out of puff at ~6500 redline anyway.
    || 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||

  11. #101
    Toymods Board Member Chief Engine Builder Hiro's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    7AFTEs are internally identical to 7AFEs, only real differences are the turbo (obviously), piping, maybe bigger injectors, and the ECU. Then again, they only run a meagre amount of boost (85-115kw isn't a huge jump)

    As a bare minimum I'd run new rod bolts if you keep the rev limit down about 7500rpm, any higher and aftermarket rods are a good idea.
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  12. #102
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Just a couple of questions.

    Does anyone know if a 215mm 4a clutch will bolt up to the 215mm 7a flywheel? I know ones 8 bolt and the others 6 but does that matter? I'm pretty sure the splines are the same.

    How much I should be thinking about decking the 7a block if I'm using a bigport head, a stock head gasket and gze pistons? I'm aiming for a comp ratio of a touch under 11:1 (so maybe 10.8:1).

  13. #103
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Quote Originally Posted by 200Boy View Post
    Just a couple of questions.

    Does anyone know if a 215mm 4a clutch will bolt up to the 215mm 7a flywheel? I know ones 8 bolt and the others 6 but does that matter? I'm pretty sure the splines are the same.

    How much I should be thinking about decking the 7a block if I'm using a bigport head, a stock head gasket and gze pistons? I'm aiming for a comp ratio of a touch under 11:1 (so maybe 10.8:1).
    When I went from 4AGE to 7AGE, I used the same clutch plate and pressure plate,
    and just used a new 6 bolt flywheel,

    so I'd say yes. The splines are gearbox dependant not engine related anyway.
    - KE70 Corolla Dx -
    - 500hp+ 7AGTE 20V turbo -
    - MRS/Hayabusa turbo **sold**
    - TA63 3TGTE project in the build -

  14. #104
    Senior ****** Carport Converter Sam_Q's Avatar
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    definate yes, using ZE pistons will get you much lesss than that in comp:

    http://s-86.com/s-cr-chart.html

    ignore the N/A for a 7a bottom and a bigport ZE piston + head, at the time I thought they used the 18mm pin

  15. #105
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    Default Re: 7age: how to?

    Cheers for the fast replies guys.

    I was told on another forum "Taking off 0.7mm from the block so the pistons sit flush to the deck will net compression approx 10.4:1, running a TRD headgasket will up the compression to approx 10.8:1"

    Sounds like the way to go

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