Welding Sunroof Hole - Suggestions

**takai** · 20-10-2006, 09:59 PM

Ok, i went out, made and trialed my own edging tool, which isnt bad at all. But realistically if im going to get it done before new year then ill have to get a proper one. I think ill be on the hunt for one tomorrow.
Something like this doesnt look bad:

Edit: while testing my own edging tool i managed to break a pair of vise grips and two G clamps. Stupid cheapo crap.

**Alex** · 21-10-2006, 07:34 AM

If you are going to swage around the edges of your filler panel,have a lip of around 10mm to sit under your roof, line it up how you want it, then drill 1/8" holes through the top of the skin down into the filler panel lip (swaged section) roughly 100mm apart ,one at a time, all the way around , following up by putting a self tapping screw in each hole

Once you're happy with the fit, take out one screw at a time, counter sink through the top skin (roof) with a 1/2" drill bit, it's tricky to not go through both panels, which you don't want to do, you can buy special couter sink bits, they are much better to use,

Well once you have taken out a screw and counter sunk the screw hole, weld the hole, then continue all the way around the roof untill its done

That method will be strong, if you want it stronger just make all your holes closer together, after doing all that you can basically leave it as is and fibreglass it or finish it off welding the seam ,but that will deffinitly be risking warpage from using alot more heat

Also remember to cool your welds it is important using any method.

Here is some pics of panels pinned/screwed into place before welding

First couple of pics on this link http://www.radrides.com/49.html

Hope that is helpfull

**Dimitri** · 21-10-2006, 12:36 PM

i have this to add

i did this myself. it is a new section cut from a donor car and but welded. the 1/4 pnal sank ALOT. some taps with a rubber mallet on the sill and it popped back out mostly but the bog is still upto 3mm deep in places. i think thats too much weight to add to a race car.

if you do weld, have a compressor with an air blower in one hand to chase the welds as you lay them.

**takai** · 21-10-2006, 02:40 PM

Step1: Form up lip with 25mmx1mm ally bar, including large quanitities of Sikaflex:

Step2: Cut panel to size and sikaflex/rivet to the lip:

Step3: Stand back and admire new roof.

Step4....?
Step5: Profit. Well i actually did with this one. The ally bar cost me a sum total of $8 with lots of bits left over. And the rivets i had around. Sikaflex was $15 but i would have needed that anyway. Certainly beats the $190 they wanted for the air flange tool.

Next up comes the bog and paint. After this round ill get a new roof skin put on entirely.
Didnt even have to break out the welder.

**rob** · 21-10-2006, 07:06 PM

sikaflex? as in silicone? you will have lots of trouble getting paint to stick to that, not to mention anywhere else you've touched with traces of silicone on your fingers

**kingmick** · 21-10-2006, 07:29 PM

Originally Posted by thechuckster

use TIG if you can get hold of a unit - it'll put less heat into panels (hence slightly less warpage)... downside if this is that you will need you work area to be very clean.

No i use the Tig to seam weld chassis and the first hit gets rid of the glue or paint and then you go fo your life with the tig after a quick scrape and wire brush.
Tig is good if you can use it properly, you can weld coke cans together

I am so out of practice, last week i grabbed a torch to do something and had to pull the tip out straight away and linish it after i just touched the job
Unlike me, if your good at drawing free hand you will usually be good at tig welding, mine is forced learning over years

.

**Toobs** · 21-10-2006, 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by kingmick

No i use the Tig to seam weld chassis and the first hit gets rid of the glue or paint and then you go fo your life with the tig after a quick scrape and wire brush.
Tig is good if you can use it properly, you can weld coke cans together

I am so out of practice, last week i grabbed a torch to do something and had to pull the tip out straight away and linish it after i just touched the job
Unlike me, if your good at drawing free hand you will usually be good at tig welding, mine is forced learning over years

.

I wish I could TIG weld properly... damned red green colour blindness results in me using the linisher more than the TIG welder every time I've tried

As a bonus though it's made me much better at oxy welding aluminium!

**"Z" UTE** · 21-10-2006, 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by rob

sikaflex? as in silicone? you will have lots of trouble getting paint to stick to that, not to mention anywhere else you've touched with traces of silicone on your fingers

Sikaflex, is a brand name for "urethane", most modern windscreens are "glued in" with urethane.

Agreed, any "Silicone", should be kept well away from motor vehicles. The acetic acid in silicones, aggressively promotes rust, and is near on impossible to paint.

cheers Chuck.

**takai** · 21-10-2006, 10:47 PM

Aye, but for the next round i dont mind too much. Ill source and fit a new roof section over the new year.

**Sam_Q** · 21-11-2006, 05:30 PM

I managed to get some specialist advice on this as I want to ditch mine. I was told my idea of having a larger roof panel placed underneath was good however the trick is to have a jack under it lifting it up 3mm for each one of the tig welds. If it isnt jacked up it can warp the roof pretty bad.