Removing turbo turbine housing

**BlackSupra** · 01-01-2006, 07:41 PM

Is this task as simple as undoing the bolts?

(yes i know they will be well and truly stuck in there)

Just want to have the turbine housing ceramic coated and was wondering if i will need any gaskets or seals that i will break in the removal process?

Yes i will be careful not to damage the wheels.

**Toy77** · 01-01-2006, 08:00 PM

Neither of the turbos i have pulled apart had any kind of seal in there.
as you said be careful with the wheel, it wasnt the bolts that were the risk, but rather loosenig the houseing once they are out. they seem to be very stuck and when they let go, go very loose.

why are you coating it? for looks or to reduce heat?

Cheers
Stew

**BlackSupra** · 01-01-2006, 08:11 PM

Ceramic coating the dump pipe and exhaust housing.

It gets pretty damn hot in my engine bay and from what oldcorollas has tested and said, exhaust wrap will melt with temps im experiencing and i've read mixed reports on turbo 'bags'.

**YelloRolla** · 01-01-2006, 09:00 PM

There are no seals between the housing and the CHRA. I ususally clamp some pieces of timber to the bench to support the comp housing (so that the turbine housing is the lowest point) and then knock the turbine housing with a stick of hard wood and a hammer, bit by bit and round and round.

This method is usually for the Toyota turbos with the Vee Band (not the band that teh Witzl loves) as they are usually very tight. I have not had the same issues with Garrett turbos where the housing is held with bolts and washers (these usually are easy).

**BlackSupra** · 01-01-2006, 10:21 PM

It's a mitsubishi housing i will be attacking

**Rex_Kelway** · 02-01-2006, 12:26 AM

The turbos Rex has dismantled were both v-band and Garrett units. Being second hand and having gone through many 1000's of Kms of heating cycles they tend to get a bit siezed/rusty together as they are such a tight fit in the first place.

Rex recommends treating it as a two day jorb. Use the first day to get some good penetrant (RP7, WD40, Penetr8 etc) into all of the seams around that area then gradually work them loose uniformly around the housing be careful not to skew the two parts (CHRA and housing) as the thin-ness and tight clearances of turbine blades make them easy to rodger.

FWIW He recommends a normal steel ball-pein hammer rather than a dead blow or rubber mallet to losen the housing, its jarring effect works wonders on breaking the buildup and stick-edness.

**Draven** · 02-01-2006, 04:02 AM

the last mitsu turbo I pulled apart was a v-band type. a small block of wood and a baby-sledge type hammer sorted it out right quickly.
I found once you "crack the seal" so to speak, you can ditch the big hammer for a small one, and gently remove.

**Toy77** · 02-01-2006, 10:26 AM

slightly off topic.....

i have a turbo bag on my to4.

i reckon it is great...... even after a decent run you can touch it with your bare hand.

a mate had the coating done and i wasnt real impressed as a heat thing.... does look good though.

Stew

**BlackSupra** · 02-01-2006, 10:31 AM

Originally Posted by Toy77

slightly off topic.....

i have a turbo bag on my to4.

i reckon it is great...... even after a decent run you can touch it with your bare hand.

a mate had the coating done and i wasnt real impressed as a heat thing.... does look good though.

Stew

Im going to run with this OT line for a bit.

I have read that the turbo bag is too effective at trapping heat, causing undue damage to the turbo from excessive heat. I beleive the turbo bag IS more effective at what it is doing.

I also beleive that ceramic coating would be more beneficial than nothing.

Another question would be what have you done about your dump pipe in regards to heat?

**thechuckster** · 02-01-2006, 11:33 AM

note: some folks get the outside of pipes coated - where-as you should only be getting the inside of the housing and and dump-pipe coated so the outside surface is still able to easily radiate heat.

fwiw: extra heat retained in the gas - as opposed to absorbed and later radiated by the housing - will give you more zorst gas pressure, and hence boost, when on power. So the bag may help with 1/4 mile times or dyno runs - but in the long run, will prematurely kill the turbine or bearing as neither is able to use the housing and bearing-core to radiate/regulate heat loss.

As HPC coating prevents some of that heat transfer (from the gas to the housing) you dont have massive heat soak to overcome and the bearing-core will still conduct heat to the housing to assist in heat loss.