UZA70 - parts list

[v8supra]

Get the frontcut and try it. When you find somethign doesn't fit, then source a different one. With mounts, try the crossmember from the halfcut.

My mounts were custom as I was connecting it to a manual gearbox, and I put the engine further back.

You can't really tell what you need to fabricate and how much until you're actually doing it.

[EldarO]

well, you used a crown motor right? then had to source a soarer sump? ive been told this is easier to get than buying a soarer motor, and looking for parts like the crown headers, gearbox.

also, matty pointed out, one of the cars, out of the soarer, celsior, and crown, uses a second ECU strictly to control the auto, my memory is shitty, but i think he said celsior.

i think ill go with what matty suggested, a crown halfcut, a soarer sump and pickup.

V8Supra, i was more hinting towards you possibly supplying some kind of template for your mounts? or at least giving me some idea of how close the motor is to fitting on the standard crossmember?

now that you mention needing different mounts for your manual, it all gets even more confusing!

Eldar.O.

[MacroP]

well, you used a crown motor right? then had to source a soarer sump? ive been told this is easier to get than buying a soarer motor, and looking for parts like the crown headers, gearbox.

also, matty pointed out, one of the cars, out of the soarer, celsior, and crown, uses a second ECU strictly to control the auto, my memory is shitty, but i think he said celsior.

i think ill go with what matty suggested, a crown halfcut, a soarer sump and pickup.

V8Supra, i was more hinting towards you possibly supplying some kind of template for your mounts? or at least giving me some idea of how close the motor is to fitting on the standard crossmember?

now that you mention needing different mounts for your manual, it all gets even more confusing!

Eldar.O.

131 Crown's use the seperate auto ECU. If you can find a rear sump, the going price seems to be around $200. You could try the Lextreme forum and talk to 'qca' (Pete from QLD) there. He imports the engine and bits and could probably organise the sump for you.

[v8supra]

I'm still not sure why you want to swap out the auto. If your changing the drive shaft anyway, why not use the auto that comes with the engine? ... unless your going to change the computer on the engine. 1UZs usually come with computer and gearbox attached. why seperate them?

my site is down atm. (cat jumped on the supraserver and I'm in the UK so can't fix it) So you can't see more on my mounts. They weren't much, maybe a little slimmer or a touch of a different angle than stock.

My vote is to hold out till you get a soarer front cut.

[v8supra]

oh and now the motor sits about (edit) 3mm above the crossmember and was originally a paper width from the break booster, although its now made a small divet in the break booster.

David from the Lextreme website has being looking into reversing alternators, I wonder if I've got enough room in front of the engine...

[EldarO]

i think ill go with what matty suggested, a crown halfcut, a soarer sump and pickup.

I'm still not sure why you want to swap out the auto. If your changing the drive shaft anyway, why not use the auto that comes with the engine? ... unless your going to change the computer on the engine. 1UZs usually come with computer and gearbox attached. why seperate them?

my site is down atm. (cat jumped on the supraserver and I'm in the UK so can't fix it) So you can't see more on my mounts. They weren't much, maybe a little slimmer or a touch of a different angle than stock.

My vote is to hold out till you get a soarer front cut.

huh?

as i said, the crown motor/gearbox (easiest because it has the right type of gearbox output yoke, and headers, this way i just need the soarer sump and pickup.

whereas, if i bought the soarer cut, id need to get my tailshaft modded to the other type of yoke, id need to find the apparently hard to find crown headers (for a decent price) etc. etc.

its just easier to go with the crown gear, as the soarer gear is a dime a dozen.

so you used a soarer engine? if so, why did you a new sump?

Eldar.O.

[v8supra]

No I didn't use a soarer engine, which is why I had to swap everything out.

I always thought most halfcuts have the yolk in them as its the easy way to keep the fluid in. Can't remember if mine was in or not. Nearly 3 years ago now

[Endless]

Eldar, MEGA Imports in Ozzy Park have UZZ30 Soarer front cuts, a couple of them i beleive.

[EldarO]

alright, i know CVAP has a crown, waiting to hear back, Matty showed me where a Celsior cut is availiable, and according to endless, theres soarer avaliable too. ill check that out ASAP.

so all three are somewhat avaliable.

basically, the crown features the right exhaust, headers and gearbox yoke for the tailshaft, so the only thing that WONT work would be the sump, they also have a viscous fan, not a hydralic fan, which, is simpler to install, which i like.

whereas the soarer features the right sump, but uses a twin exhaust system (have to scrap my existing 3" custom cat-back, or, bare minimum modify it) i need the crown headers, and have to modify the tailshaft to accept, as matty put it, the "weird ass 3 spoke y thingys" and a hydraulic fan.

celsior... no ones mentioned anything, AFAIK they use the "weird ass 3 spoke y thingys" the twin system exhaust, the wrong headers, and the wrong sump, inlcuding the hydralic fan.

so, get soarer cut = dicking around with exhaust, tailshaft, hydralic fan and headers
crown = dicking around with sump and pickup
celsior = dicking around with exhaust, tailshaft, hydraulic fan, headers, sump, and pickup.

wirings the same pain in the ass for all of them, as it should all come out in one unit, i only have to hook it into the car, i think they all use the same speed sensor? and i know i wont have a working tacho, kinda bummed about it! will have to get a box made up to convert the signal so it works, i can live without it for now.

anyone see why i want to use a crown cut? can anyone give me a clear cut to-the point reason to use the soarer over the crown?

Eldar.O.

[thechuckster]

fwiw: the guy in QLd with the 1UZ in a MA70 started out with a crown front cut, used everything possible from that, and then got a broken soarer 1UZ for the sump.

wiring will be a PITA- but seeing as you've coped with a 7mgte+auto - it's seem familiar.

PM me if you want me to pass on some contact details to him. He's not in these forums.

cheers,
Charles

[v8supra]

My digi dash is still running without a transmogrifier for the input. Reads wrong, but I've gotten used to it. If you know where to get a box that goes from a 4cyl engine to a 6cyl tacho, let me know

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Take it to any calibration shop Pete and they should be able to sort something out for not a lot of coin

[CrUZida]

Source a rear sump before you go buying a non-rearsump cut.
They are the hardest and most expensive to buy.
Occasionally a bargain comes up for them, but last quote I got was from QCA and that was $600AUD (just for the sump/pickup/dipstick/etc)

After you have a rear sump buy the Crown cut.
If you can't source a rear sump buy the Soarer cut.

FYI the Soarer cut will need a Fuel Pump ECU (will not come as part of the cut), where as the Crown and Celsior (UCF1x Celsior that is) use a Fuel Pump Relay (comes as part of the cut).

The Crown is the hardest to wire, but still doable.

Modding a tailshaft to suit the 3-pronged output will be chickenfeed compared to the rest of the conversion.

Getting the Soarer or Celsior ECU/Speedsensor to work with the Crown box is not a walk in the park. Doable yes, but not in 5 mins.
Celsior and Soarer boxes are not compatible with screw on speedo cables/sensors. Only the Crown one is.
All 1UZ boxes are electronically the same, its just the mount/type of speed/speedo sensor that differs. (ie, besides the speed sensor you can run any 1UZ box off any 1UZ ECU).

I'm not 100% sure if the rear sump dipstick will foul on the Crown headers. I know the front sump dipstick fouls on the Crown headers.

You WILL have brakebooster/cam cover clearance issues.

Modding the exhaust to suit the twin system is chickenfeed.
Just cut the 3" section infront of the diff, and weld on a twin 2.25" Y pipe.

[EldarO]

awesome peewee, ive been waiting for you to reply, because i know youve been over east

basically, your saying that the Crown, bar wiring and sump is the best option?

might have a rear sump organised, waiting to hear back...

im not planning on arseing around swapping gearboxes and shit over, even if i have to wait till a rear sump comes up, id much rather that than have to go through all the extra work required to fit a soarer motor.

what can i do about the brake booster issue? am i stupid in thinking it doesnt have to be 100% dead straight out from the firewall?

Eldar.O.

[CrUZida]

The Crown motor is guarenteed to be the cheapest purchase price, but also most likely the highest km's.

It has the benefits of viscous fan and slipyoke tranny as you mentioned.
I'm just not sure if the rear sump dipstick will clear the crown headers, but you'll run into that problem regardless of which engine you buy if you use the crown headers.

As for the brake booster issue, try and find a longer/thinner one in the Toyota market, and use that.
I know MX83 owners who put in 2JZGTE's use the JZX81 booster because its dimensions are more friendly to making love with the rear turbo.