18RGU Carby and Cam Questions (long winded and a few pics)

[Steve M]

I should add to that, make sure it's up to full temperature before any real tuning as that makes a huge difference with these engines.

[floppy]

Hey guys,

Well while I am laid up at home sick I thought I'd post an update on the running of beast.

We got the car running pretty good with little backfiring or popping etc on saturday morning. Still got a strange issue with flooding I think (float level) but the strangeness is that plug 1 and 3 are running rich. I would have expected both plugs on 1 carby to be black as. So not sure exactly what to check for now (apart from resetting my float levels a bit lower).

We also decided to fix the clearance issue on the intake side, so took the cam out and faced all of the shims to what we calculated to give minimum clearnaces. Man that takes ages to face those little buggers by hand!!!. Burnt finger tips from the friction don't feel too good the next day

We re-aligned the cam gears etc as best we could without the little tool and they are a lot better now.

Biggest problem I have is that the big long curved guide is fubar so need to source replacements there (I think I will replace all the timing gear at once so I know for peace of mind that its done)

Anyway with the clearances closer to .24/.25 on the intake sides, fixing the cam alignment and with the buggered guide, this thing runs so much nicer. When I took it for a test it revved so much freer and felt a lot better.

I learnt how to use a dwell meter as well and the angle was spot on 54degrees which the toyota manual said it should be.

What I was thinking of doing is going electronic ignition by way of some of the posts I've seen on here which is an 18rc housing and 21 or 22r dizzy insides.

A bit more playing and fine tuning after the timing gear is replaced and I think I might have a nice little rocket

Any tips on which guides can be used from other motors etc would be handy. I've been reading the interchangeable oddities thread but am still unclear which guide can be used with a bit of massaging etc.


Thanks everyone for their tips and info, with your help and my friends I have learnt a lot about these toyota twincams.
Dave

[floppy]

Oh forget one thing,
while I had it apart I couldnt see the oil squirter mentioned in the love of a tractor engine thread.


[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by Sigmeister
yes the oil control nozzle...the nut needs to be put in in the head so that the 'face' of it is facing horizontal (there is a line on the face of the nut).
one would assume that this nut controls oil going onto the chain on the inside face to lubricate it going around the gears.

yep, it's just a jet to lube the chain.... Keeping those valuable guides in one piece
[QUOTE][QUOTE]

We couldnt see anything in there that looked like an oil nozzle. (was looking in the green manual and ours didnt look the same.)
Is it possible someone hasn't put it back in? I dont want to put new guides in later and have them deteriorate because they arent getting enough lubrication.

Dave

[RT104GT]

Hey guys,

more playing and fine tuning after the timing gear is replaced and I think I might have a nice little rocket

Any tips on which guides can be used from other motors etc would be handy. I've been reading the interchangeable oddities thread but am still unclear which guide can be used with a bit of massaging etc.


Thanks everyone for their tips and info, with your help and my friends I have learnt a lot about these toyota twincams.
Dave

YEAH THERE IS A POST ONE OF THE GUYS MADE ONE OUT OF AN 18RC ABOUT $30.
18RG UNOBTAINABLE.
I HAVENT GOT AROUND TO MAKING ONE YET. WILL TRY TO FIND POSTING FOR YOU..

[RT104GT]

Those photos show that the camshaft are TDC i.e. the back of the lobes are at their lowest point and you will have to set your clearance as per the book. Sometimes this is critical sometimes not. NISSAN only have two camshaft positions to set all the tappets. Which is ODD but it works fine. The only other thing to do is the DEGREEING of the CAMS. This may or may not be important. But it is whyn there are 4 holes in the gears.Search for details on Google. Or PM me I have a pdf description of it. You are doing well. Don't give up. And yes it is important to note clearance hot and cold, but setting up at 80C will only burn your fingers and it cools down pretty quick after you shut down so make allowances of 25% larger gap so they dont close up and use really good feeler gauges.

[Steve M]

18RG clearances are only given in cold measurements in my book.

[floppy]

Hey guys,

I thought I'd just revive this thread to say that will all of the info etc I got from everyone who contributed, I have now got the 18RGU running quite nice, smooth and hell fun

I really only have one thing left to do and this is replace the timing guides etc. Its noisy as hell

I ended up breaking the accelerator cable today on my test drive after playing with the timing some more. Manage to get it home by turning up the idle screw and using a bit of choke (was only about 1k from home)

After fixing the cable the car felt so much better to drive!! I think a small part of my power problems were that the original cable setup with its sloppy mounts etc wasnt letting my get full throttle. That and the extra advance I gave it

Next up is to rebuild the original 18rgu electronic dizzy i got from Norbie (needs a bearing or bush replaced as there is a little bit too much slop in the shaft)

It seriously feels like a different car now!!!!

Thanks again everyone.

Dave