The guide: 4ag(z,t)e rebuild *ENGINE COMPLETE*

[slide86]

Well, after much serching on this site and the entire net, i found some info to help on the rebuilding of my 4AGZE.
I thought id write up this guide to help all of us out there to locate the info in one place.
(if the moderators want to add this to FAQ, then thats cool)

There are a few different threads on this site that go into some details of the 4AG engine. I am going to include photos and part numbers fo everything that i have done and installed in my engine.

The start: This is my block, its a 7 rib 4AGZE. It was originally AFM, DLI and has a big port head.

It has already been fitted with ARP main cap studs
Part number: 203-5403
--First thing i did after receiving the back from the engine shop was to clean the block. I used carby clean to clean all the surfaces and the bores.
--Next i applied oil to the bores to prevent them from getting surface rust.
Now i am ready to install the main bearings into the block

Here you can see the bearings fitted to the block. I used ACL bearings.
Part Number: MS-1410A M043A
--Next step is to fit the crank and check the clearances. This is the crank fitted to the block with the main bearing caps fitted to check the oil clearances:

Once the clearance has been checked and confirmed, oil the bearings and the caps are re-torqued to spec.
The thrust clearance of the crank should also be checked at this stage. This is the foward and back motion when the crank is sitting in the block. This should be measured with the new thrust washers installed.
Part Number: 2T1695-STD

Here you can see the position of the thrust bearing on main cap No.3, identified by the arrow.
Now its time to set the pistons and rods up, my pistons were already fitted to the rods so i didnt need to do this step. I did although have to remove the old rings from the pistons in order to clean them and fit the new rings.

--Here are two pics of the pistons before and after they were cleaned and had the rings removed. notice the oil squirters on the rod.
The rods have also been fitted with ARP rod bolts
--Now i fitted the new bearings to the rods. Again i used ACL bearings
Part number: CB-1425GP R716H
--Using the rings in the bore, its a good idea to check the ring gap. mine checked ok.
--The rings were then fitted to the pistons. ACL rings were also used here:
Part number : C1741-STD
--Now for the fun part, the rods and pistons are fitted to the block and crank.

I used a Bluepoint ring compressor tool to compress the rings on teh piston so they can be inserted into the bore.
The rings, piston skirt and rod bearings should all be lubricated to add to the ease of installation.
This is what the engine should look like after the process is completed

This is stage one. Tomorrow i will have the head studs installed, the remote oil filter housing on, the oil pump and the rear main seal.
Stay tuned for regular updates

[Rallystanza]

Nice right up so far.

Did you get the mains tunnel bored when you fitted the main studs?

If you did you should mention that bit too, as when you run the studs in the mains as opposed to the bolts in a 4A you need to tunnel bore it.

Cheers,

Jeremy

[slide86]

The block has been tunel bored and fitted with 10thou oversize bearings. This was done due to to spun bearings caused by lack of oil changes and maintainence. (previous owner)

I have now installed the oil pump to the block. I bought a genuine oil pump from toyota, it cost a pretty penny and took ages to get here because it had to come from Japan.
This is the block before the pump was installed

And here it is installed on the engine

Oil Pump Part number: 15100-19036

Note that i have fitted the pump with a new crankshaft oil seal and a new gasket, i used a small amount of gasket sealer on the gasket. Some people dont, but i do.
Next up, I fitted the oil filter relocation kit. This is the adaptor that allows you to run the lines to the oil filter block.

i used "EARLS" fittings. This is a Holley company.
Block Fitting part number: 1177ERL
Oil filter fitting part number: 2177ERL
Now i fitted the ARP head studs to the block. These have a top and bottom, so be careful when fitting them. The allen key fitting points up, so you can screw them into the block. It should also be noted that the 4A engines have two different length head bolts/studs. Its pretty easy to determine which is for which side. The exhaust side of the engine has the longer bolts/studs. Its also a good idea to lube the threads before installing.

Head stud kit part number: 203-4203

UPDATE TIME 28-03-06
Time to fit the Rear main, Sump, oil pick up and windage plate.
This is how the engine was left (from the pic above).

I had to remove the engine from the engine stand so that i could access the back of the motor.
This is what it looks like, now time to fit the rear main seal housing and gasket.

Now the housing and the gasket for the housing have been fitted. lucky these housings have two dowels to align the housing so that the seal sits in the correct position when you are putting it on the crank.

Now it comes time to fit the seal to the crank, this is a delecate process as you dont want to damage the seal when fitting. Otherwise you will be taking the gearbox out when it leaks oil the first time you start it up!
Now, I dont have the correct tool, but i managed to find something that was the same diameter as the seal. So when i hit it, even pressure is applied all the way round the seal.
The magic tool in question.....A coffee mug. haha, but it worked really well. This is what the seal looks like fitted.

Now thats all done, I can refit the engine to the stand and start on the sump.
First thing is to make sure the surfaces are clean of oil and dirt. Because the 4AG engine doesnt have a sump gasket, sealant is required and you dont want to have crap on the sealing surfaces.
First thing to fit is the windage plate. I have cleaned it on a wire wheel.

Now the next step is to fit the oil pickup and the gasket for the pickup. A very important part not to forget, no gasket, no oil pressure!

Last step is finally to fit the sump. I applied sealant to either side of the windage plate, meaning that the surface that goes on the block and onto the sump are sealed. Its just a case of simply putting the sump on the block, as it has two locating studs near the rear of the engine. It also important to tighten the bolts evenly to get the sump to sit flat and straight. Dont overtighten either, they strip and break easy!

Thats all for today, Tomorrow the head goes on and manifolds!

[thechuckster]

slide86: are you rebuilding that engine in your dining room or the kitchen? the polished floors and french doors are a giveaway that you're not in the garage

[slide86]

yeah. the advantages of parents leaving me a big house. much more space......and the tv and fridge are near by! haha

[xolent]

just wondering, how much did the earls sandwhich plates cost you?

good build up

+1 rep

[slide86]

yeah the EARLS oil kits were bout $90. that doesnt include the fittings, the oil cooler itself or the hose

[30psi 4agte]

Is this thing running yet? you got to post some figures if it is!! Im always keen to see what other blokes are making with different combos on these little scuckers

[slide86]

ill have the engine done this week, and it will be in the car on the weekend.
updates and pics comming tomorrow!

[4agte]

with the headstuds you mentioned that you have to lube them up first i assume this means that you dont use red loctite on them??

[slide86]

nah i havent used loctite on the studs. when the nuts are tightened down they also turn the studs to provide extra tighteneing force. this should be all that is needed, i dont think they will be coming loose!
i just checked on the ARP instructions with the kit and it doesnt say that its required. it DOES say that the studs and nuts do need to be lubricated tho

[takai]

You MUST lubricate the ARP studs with either engine oil (monograde) or the ARP moly lube. The Moly lube is heaps better, and will result in a more accurate torque reading. The directions clearly state this as well.

[Dimmy]

very nice write up, love your work

Will be needing this very soon +ve rep

[slide86]

Updated today

[slide86]

Time to spin the engine over and get the head on!
This is the head gasket i will be using. It a HKS item measuring 2.0mm in thickness.

Part number of HKS head gasket: 11116-018158AO

Now time to put the head on!

The head has been faced, New shims, new valve stem seals, fully cleaned.
Its the standard big port head from the engine with the standard big port cams.

Here is the head sitting on the block, has not be tensioned down yet.

A quick picture of the top of the head before anything goes on it. Buckets and shims already installed by engine machine shop.

Now time to install the cams. You cant mix them up because the exhaust cam is the one that has the distributor/CAS drive on it. I lubricated all the journals and lobes before installing, as well as the caps and the head.

Its a good idea to install the cam seals in the front caps before you tension them right down, otherwise they can be damaged if trying to hit them in afterwards.

Time to fit the front cam belt cover and the cam gears. Im using the standard gears at the moment but there will be a pair of adjustable gears making there way there soon. Its a very good idea to use loctite or similar on these bolts.