its not how fast you go, its how quick you get there. unless you live in NT, there isnt anypoint to go over 100mph. unless you are a drag racer
absolutely not! your engine is what powers your car, not the flywheel, this is like saying you will get worse fuel ecomony by making your car lighter, does that make sense to you?I beg to differ, my car won't keep rolling as much on a flat road surface at say 60km/h. I'll have to give it a bit more rev every now and then to keep it going further wheras a heavy flywheel will just keep me rolling yeah?
its not how fast you go, its how quick you get there. unless you live in NT, there isnt anypoint to go over 100mph. unless you are a drag racer
Originally Posted by The Witzl
get a good port and polish done,
isnt overally expensive,
get a 3 inch exhaust...... remember this is an item you can use regardless of the engine. if you change the engine its only a 1/2 metre of pipe you need to change.... good investment
maybe you could find a cheap MTEU turbo and mani.... cheap power![]()
hello
No that doesn't make sense. But I always thought a bigger flywheel would make it easier for your car to just keep rolling with minimal acceleration required?Originally Posted by shinybluesteel
How much roughly? I have no idea.Originally Posted by 86_celica_3sge
It's not gonna help me with the current size of what the extractors will let out is it?Originally Posted by brett_celicacoupe
Found one but don't want one, like to keep the car NA if I can at the stage. I'm not into the whole FI thing yet.Originally Posted by brett_celicacoupe
for a 5M? a whole lotta stomping of the gas pedal!..
hm.. some old school tricks include a throttle body coolant line bypass.. cranking up the spark and fuel mix (FPR?) and maybe some spark / coil amplifiers.. some of that throttle body cleaner helps that tiny bit to make the car feel faster.. hmm.. maybe clean out your injectors.. ?
otherwise.. bigger throttle body, bigger throttle plate, bigger injectors, extractors, longer duration cams and lift.... or as OC would say.. see what you want and where u want the improvements and go from there, a methodological approach..
Research has shown child in front seat causes accidents, accident in back seat causes child
I tried that alreadyOriginally Posted by Vios-GT_07
I've run through some spitfire injector cleaner before it got dyno'd (full tank through). Think it's worth getting them manually cleaned? Maybe some new spark leads and disty cap and rotor?Originally Posted by Vios-GT_07
I don't think I've maxed out the injectors yet so I'm not sure if bigger ones would help. Bigger throttle body would be an option. What's that about $150 to get it opened up a couple mm's if it can? I'd do this in conjunction with a new intake I think.Originally Posted by Vios-GT_07
Originally Posted by Vios-GT_07
i dont see the point in larger tb , injectors.... unless you have the other mods to warrant those 2 mods. may as well piss into the wind unless you have the need for higher fuel and air. injectors are always bigger than needed so smallish upgrades wont need an upgrade.
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
the flywheel is an energy storage device. it is added to an engine to smooth the delivery of power. so instead of 2,3 or 4 pulses of power [from tiny explosions in 1 cylinder] per rev being applied in a jerky method, the flywheel 'catches' some energy from the engine when the power is delivered and then 'feeds' some back thru the driveline and engine when it has more energy than the engine [is in between power strokes]. the heavier the flywheel the more energy it will accept [in direct proportion to its weight] smoothing out the pulses. this makes it slower to rev as more energy goes into the storage. a lighter fly means more energy is avbl to the driveline; consequently it will accelerate quicker. the downside is that there is less smoothing energy which *MAY* mean higher idle speed, also at limit of engine power it will slow down quicker. there are also issues with cracking of the fly at high stress points like around the bolt holes etcOriginally Posted by RObErT_RaTh
here's a post from a few years back
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_num_18
1. There's no point arguing with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience
2. Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference
flywheel would definately be a worth while investment.
i'd say both u and shinyblue steel are right, kind of. flywheel has nothing to do with how much power the engine makes, however, just as it will climb through the rev's quicker, they'll also drop quicker.
6 in one, half a dozen in the other. A heavier flywheel will maintain momentum better, but in turn will need more energy to get it moving. A lighter flywheel will require less of the engines power to get moving, but wont maintain the momentum of a heavier flywheel.
am i making sense?
i could be wrong
hEkTiK 4AC yO!
At constant load/constant throttle flywheel weight has little effect as other have said, with a lighter flywheel the change in revs will be quicker.
The car will accelerate quicker when power developed is in excess of power required to maintain current speed and loose speed quicker when power made is less than what is required to to maintain current speed.
Won't notice it much on flat running constant speed, will notice in a good way on acceleration, will notice it in a bad way when first getting it off the mark up a driveway etc and if trying to maintain a constant speed in small hills.
regards
jon
for the record ta23-mbzq-nnr is correct any mass when moved will store energy, the greater the mass the greater the energy it can store, at the cost of time it takes for it too reach critical, smaller mass-shorter time. simple physics.
at any rate. couple of other cost effective means to get more jam from an NA.
- index the plugs
- shave head/deck the block/ thinner head gasket = higher comp = more jam
after that i think just about everything else has been mentioned. best bet is to get some high duration/high lift cams (or cam in your case) then bigger injectors but that is not a very cost effective solution.
best of luck.
Lightened flywheels will give you a little extra pickup, but at the expensive of your driveline, instead of absorbing alot of the shocks of the engine, it will deliver it striahgt down the drive train, good initially, but will catch up with you later on....
From the mods you've suggested you are basically at the limits of "cheap" few hundred dollar mods, sadly I'm in the same place myself. Other than messing with A/F's it's only going to be expensive from here with head work, cams, ECU or ITB's.
ive got a good modforced induction
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
not possible on a 300 dollar budget, and,
Originally Posted by RObErT_RaTh
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