4agze owner/expert help

[Tom86]

3/ I would check your base timing by shorting out T1 to E in the diagnostic port, and then starting the car. With a timing light, check the timing, and adjust as necessary to get it to around 10deg BTDC
compression (IIRC)

The there doesn't seem to be any timing mark on this engine (no numbers eg 5, 10, 15) but there is a pointy bit of plastic (i'm assuming thats 10 degrees?).

I don't know how good the fuel pump is, all I know is its from a 4age. But after reading the post i previously mentioned the symptom seem to be very similar to mine. That is I would drive smoothly like regular 4ac/4age. It just seem like it has no torque/pull and when you floored it, it will start to pull but sounded like crap.

I'm really considering getting one of those Walbro GSS342 off ebay.

[takai]

Pointy bit of plastic (actually metal from the tensioner) is 10* BTDC.

[c2888]

It should feels way better than a 4ac, with a crappy cobbled together non intercooled example you can spin the wheels from rolling in 1st. Get under the bonnet and give it a good rev, you should see the supercharger clutch engage and spin it. At idle it kinda just gets sucked along, you will notice it engage if it is.

Also check your belt tension, I've had this problem before. Not having a boost gauge made it difficult to pin point, it's hard to pick the slipping noise when it's all new to you.

The others will point out what boost you should have, I get 8psi on a older aw11 setup.

You should smile every time you mash the throttle

Dan

[Tom86]

Hello again,

I checked the cams timing on the engine last night thinking they might be a tooth out or something. The seem ok both dots on the inlet and exhaust wheel match up to the marker ok and the first kink on the crank pulley lined up with the timing marker.

I then went on to do the timing with the light gun. Short T1- E1 the rev drop to just above 500rpm. Set the second kink on the crank pulley with the timing marker 10degrees? Seem to idle fine.

This morning take the car for a drive rev smoothly still no power, didn't want to floor it cos it will make unhealty sound. When the engine is cold it idle at 1500 and when get to about 70-80degrees idle at 900 I thought I got the idle problem sorted, but then the car cut out on me at random time when stoping at the light or when i put my foot on the clutch .

I ordered one of the Walbro pump from ebay yesterday, then it occur to me that the efi tank I use on the car has a little kink on the metal fuel pipe, I don't know if the guy that put my tank in fix it or not before he put it in. Is there a device that you can use to measure fuel pressure? I'm thinking of taking the fuel pressure measurment just before it goes into the fuel rail on the engine. This should tell me if there is a restriction in the fuel system?

Anyway, until I get my boost gauge and new fuel pump I really don't know where to go from here. I guess I have to reset the idle again! now it seem that 900rpm idle (like normal car) is a no go with this engine .

Anymore suggestion??

Thanks everyone

[takai]

Hm, when the dots line up with the backing plate the engine should be at TDC, but if its lined up with the notch on the pulley it might be at 10*BTDC. Which would cause a few issues.

[Tom86]

Hm, when the dots line up with the backing plate the engine should be at TDC, but if its lined up with the notch on the pulley it might be at 10*BTDC. Which would cause a few issues.

I actually took a pic of all the dots lining up was going to post it but forgot to bring the camera in.

The dots on both cam wheels line up with backing plate ok. When I look at the crank pulley there are 3 notch/kink/indent on it and the first one line up with the timing marker. Does the first mean 0 second 10 and third 15* ?

[Mr Revhead]

can you feel the s/c engaging?
as its a conversion its possible the wiring to the s/c is broken or not hooked up properly
however you do say you can hear a nasty noise....
it could be a shagged clutch on the charger.
can you borrow a boost gauge to see what the charger is doing?
as it sounds to me as if your not getting any boost.

also have you checked the ecu for codes?

[Tom86]

can you feel the s/c engaging?
as its a conversion its possible the wiring to the s/c is broken or not hooked up properly
however you do say you can hear a nasty noise....
it could be a shagged clutch on the charger.
can you borrow a boost gauge to see what the charger is doing?
as it sounds to me as if your not getting any boost.

also have you checked the ecu for codes?

I'm waiting for my boost gauge to be delivered. I was told that the charger is wired to be always on (I have to do something about this) I think it is working because I can hear the charger sucking in air for a second or two after I swich off ignition.

The nasty noise I'm talking about I think could be pinging as it only happen when I give it some power. If I drive it normally it will rev smoothly but as soon as you jab the throttle it will rattle/ping and pull for a bit.

The ecu codes I haven't got the check light wired so I can't really check. Where/how do I connect the check light?

[nb86]

tom,
i mean this in my most PC manner,
judging by your posts i think you may be better off booking the car into a well respected garage with some experience with totoyotas, and save the money from buying fuel pumps etc.
the reason i say this is that even with the advice from others on the forum, the diagnosis may take weeks or months as you try one thing at a time. youre also likely to spend a lot of money on parts you probably don't need as we're trying to diagnose a car without seeing or hearing it. most of the possibilities can be eliminated by a good mechanic in a matter of minutes.
save yourself the heartache.

[Tom86]

tom,
i mean this in my most PC manner,
judging by your posts i think you may be better off booking the car into a well respected garage with some experience with totoyotas, and save the money from buying fuel pumps etc.
the reason i say this is that even with the advice from others on the forum, the diagnosis may take weeks or months as you try one thing at a time. youre also likely to spend a lot of money on parts you probably don't need as we're trying to diagnose a car without seeing or hearing it. most of the possibilities can be eliminated by a good mechanic in a matter of minutes.
save yourself the heartache.

Thanks for the advice. Its just that the I am waiting for the guy that did the conversion to fix it (he busy at the moment).The thing is while I'm waiting I just can't stop thinking about it, that is why I started this post I thought it might be its something simple, obviously its not.

Will definately book it in if the guy can't fix it.

I should have just gone with the simple 4age and be done with it this 4agze thing is just too complicated .

[c2888]

gze is worth it over 4age, when you get ripped by regular pov pack hatches in your 4age powered mobile, you will want more power.

Just a thought, did you fill with 98 octane petrol? If so maybe a squirt of octane booster may quell the pinging if it is pinging. Just trying to give you more stuff to think about

Dan

[myne]

Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intercooler piping on.
Undo the bolts holding the intercooler down
Remove and re-insert the intercooler (to ensure it actually moves)
Dont tighten the hose clamps.
Now, give it a quick, hard rev, and have your hand ready on the key
If the intercooler pops off, it's getting boost.

If it doesnt pop off after 3-4 tries, and I suspect it wont, then it's not getting boost.
If it's not getting boost, then the supercharger is probably not engaging.

[inertia]

I actually took a pic of all the dots lining up was going to post it but forgot to bring the camera in.

The dots on both cam wheels line up with backing plate ok. When I look at the crank pulley there are 3 notch/kink/indent on it and the first one line up with the timing marker. Does the first mean 0 second 10 and third 15* ?

To be 100% sure you can take the crank pulley off and align the notch in the cam sprocket with a dot on the oil housing.

I thought the marks on the pulley were:

First, 16 BTDC
Second, 10 BTDC
Third, 0 TDC

That is, the first mark to align with the timing pointer is 16, the next mark to align with the timing pointer is 10, the final mark is 0.

Does your exhaust manifold glow red hot within a few minutes of driving?

[inertia]

Here is a couple of pictures, one shows you what i mean by the first mark being 16deg BTDC. the other shows howto check the alignment marks on the cams and crankshaft.