yes yes yes yes
have you changed ANY of the coolant lines IE: the paths in which the coolant lines esp the ones to the turbo (if water cooled) are routed ???
When you pulled everthing apart to change the pump etc are you sure everything was put back together ok ?
Stupid question but does the fan flow the correct way. IE draws / blows air through the radiator in the correct direction ??
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
yes yes yes yes
Im going to take the waterpump off tomorrow and replace it with another one and not put that cork gasket in i made up
my geuss is the cork gasket has spaced the water pump out from the nice tight sealing circumference of the mating part. So there is a big gap between water pump blades allowing pressure to escape. Put the proper O- ring back in!
If anyone can understand what im saying.
Now you're really guessing & grasping at straws!!Im going to take the waterpump off tomorrow and replace it with another one and not put that cork gasket in i made up
It simpily isn't a waterpump problem if it doesn't leak or it's shaft isn't broken!!
Hi,
Yes, I understand what you're saying.
I'm not sure about the radiator on the 4AGE, but it is possible to start the car when its cold with the radiator cap off. As the engine begins to warm and the thermostat opens you should see water flowing into the radiator. No flow or weak flow means the thermo is jammed shut or the pump is shot or somehting else is restricting the water flow.
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
Toymods Car Club Treasurer, assistant Historic Plate Registrar & Forums Admin
Originally Posted by jeffro ra28
not possible, the water pump bolts to the rear housing and then to the block , so youre spacing the both off the block, the blade clearance stays the same..
turbo is not the problem, its not even running water cooling (to avoid this possibly happening)
the injectors are the ones form the old setup., they werent even removed from the rail.
the motor is a bigport bluetop 86kw TVIS motor, not a 100kw.
the radiator has lots of lovely bits floating in it , matt seems to get the idea there is an amount of sediment in the motor that is possibly blocking or slowly breaking loose, blocking other places.
thanks again for everybody's ongoing suggestions, and yes those who has been smart enough to click the link in mattys signature will notice it is turbo (i sponsor him as a business for drift and motorsport)
my bad, i read the 96kw in the first post and assumed he meant the aussie "alomst 100kw" motor... forgot about the bigport part...Originally Posted by Adsport
so if it is all back together the same.. same parts except for long block.... motor is rooted no? but why
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Because its full of tofu..
i'm pretty curious now.. it works fine for a while then it overheats again.. and if you think it's got sediments and stuff blocking other places, why not do a flush??? surely that'll help... but not flush from the radiator, actually flush with the top and bottom hoses to get water from the tap going round the engine.. (with the thermostat out).. then putting the thermostat back in and filling up with coolant again .. see if it does it anymore..
oh i also suggest filling back up with filtered water (preferably one with low sediments and mineral content.. R.O. and distilled comes to mind ).. and a good ratio of coolant..
other than that, if it still does it, i have to say that i'd like to see this to be stumped than to hear what you're saying and try to imagine and make guesses... (like Dr. House says, all patients lie.. don't assume anything)
Research has shown child in front seat causes accidents, accident in back seat causes child
When you say flushing it is it just with hose pressure or have you been using an adaptor that allows you to get a full volume of water flowing through then surge it throught with compressed air?
The straight water flush will not do too much at all, just not enough volume to dislodge anything.
Do the block (without themostat) and the radiator seprately, reverse flush first, then forward flush and finish with a reverse flush.
Loose crap in the cooling system will give the symptons of going ok for a while and then getting hot.
regards
jon
i'm with jonra23.
you need an adaptor for your hose and air compressor. basically std water pressure will not cut it - you need a ram some compressed air in there to help it. i had an overheating problem on my TA22 - i made an adaptor from a piece of PVC pipe with a air compressor fitting glued into it - works a treat.
i know you said u flushed it all before, but bits floating around indicate to me you may have a blockage still somewhere. make sure the water pump spins freely too.
make sure you do the block without the thermostat in and then do the radiator as well!
good luck man.
hm.. didn't know u could do that.. so yea jon has a better idea + rep for you!!
i always thought about pressure but when working with cars that have over-heating problems, the HG is always suss so i try to take care lest i make the problem worse..
Research has shown child in front seat causes accidents, accident in back seat causes child
what??!! NOOOOOO!!! i need closure!!
I was reading these three pages of posts like a book wondering how they would solve the problem of the overheating engine.
what happened? did you fix it? was a flush the answer??
a little o.t; i saw a graph at trade school, and the ratio of coolant to water, respective to boiling temp increases proportionately, until 66% coolant, where the boiling point starts to go back down. (from mem it was about 113*) so 2/3 coolant is supposed to be the best mix.Originally Posted by Vios-GT_07
Bookmarks