Rust Repairs

[ed]

thats their specific one though, and in my experience with PPC, id only ever use their products together, no mix n match other brands etc...

[blacktop]

just go into any autobarn and buy some kahglass (putty like, fiberglass), body filler, and if you want a good job pin hole filler (fine putty) dont forget the hardeners, rip the rust out with some nasty sand paper then hit it with a hammer to get the rest, jam in the kahglass and let it set but not to much grab a file and rip it back to its basic shape then sand it down, blow of the shit and and stick on some putty let it set and sand down to the best of the original shape then use pin hole filler and sand with very fine sand paper then all you have to do is prime sand and paint job done, if you have all tools should not take to long, but at all denpends on how much rust you have and where it is as far as cuttin and welding just save yourself the hasle and take it to a pro.

CLEAR AS MUD

[o_man_ra23]

plenty of methods for passing through a RWC have been given. I would personally say, cut the rust out... 1mm grinding disks are FTW, clean back the metal both sides, get some high carbon sheet steel of the same thickness as your panels (about 0.8mm) and mig or tig weld into place. Do your cutouts in squares, as these are the easiest to replicate for the new panels. when you finish welding, grind back immediately, spray the inside with tar, and the outside with etch primer, then prime then colour, clear. Sand between each coat. Done properly, you wont need more than stuff all bog, and you will get a smoother than new finish. Make sure your liberal with the tar, it will protect forever. Ensure that all sections have holes to drain moisture out. The biggest mistakes I see are people who weld up old rust sections, and dont replicate the original drain holes, or fill them with tar.

Personally I wouldnt go using kahglass or pop riveted plates or other dodgy crap like that unless its just some POS that you wanna pass through a roadworthy.

Cheers, Owen

[styler]

theres "bog and nasty" or "cut and forget"

cut and forget ftw.

depends what you want, a quick easy cheap repair thats going to
be much worse in a few years or a more expensive, more time consuming repair that is good as new.

obviously a patch job for a patch car and a proper job for a proper car is a logical guide

im not saying bog is bad, it has its purposes. like used in small amounts to fill imperfections. or entire cars.

[o_man_ra23]

As an example, I cut and welded the rust in my RA40, and for the ENTIRE car, used less than a half kilo tin of bog and less than a 4ltr tin of spray filler when painting. Of all that about half the bog got sanded away etc, and about 2/3 of the spray filler was sanded away too, and the car came out quite acceptably straight. Welding FTW. Also helps save you in the event of a crash, metal protects better than bog.

Cheers, Owen

theres "bog and nasty" or "cut and forget"

cut and forget ftw.

depends what you want, a quick easy cheap repair thats going to
be much worse in a few years or a more expensive, more time consuming repair that is good as new.

obviously a patch job for a patch car and a proper job for a proper car is a logical guide

im not saying bog is bad, it has its purposes. like used in small amounts to fill imperfections. or entire cars.

[haison]

I too am repairing rust in an MA61.. I have a question though. I've cut out some rust spots and treated some other ones. In regards to welding a plate in, do I need to cut another piece of metal in exactly the same size as the hole and weld that in or do I put a piece behind the panel and fill it? Is there another way of bridging the gap? check my sig for pics of the hole. Cheers guys!

[horse]

yeah you'll need to get the holes welded up with some sheet metal approx the same size. usually make it a smidgeon smaller so that the welds can get through, then aftewards you'll need to grind the welds back, and then your usual sand and bog ad nauseum procedure.

the only problem you may encounter is that the hole is small, hence when welding you may need to do it in stages so that the panel doesnt warp from excessive heat.

["Z" UTE]

The only problem with welding in replacement parts, is you can not clean up and seal/protect behind the weld in some places on the car. So any rust repair in such an area is going to last a while, but rust will reappear at the joint !!!.

A panel beater friend, has just replaced a turret on a car, without welding !! He used a type of 2 part specialist adhesive. The stuff was workable for about 60 mins, before going off. Plenty of time to position and clamp your repair pieces on to the car. Costs heaps, about $90.00 per cartridge. Imagine the advantages, no potential rust in the blind corners, no heat warpage.

If they can glue aircraft together, I reckon why not glue your car together, Cyclic stress on a plane is far greater than any normal on road stress your car would encounter.

Go check it out at your paint and panel suppliers.


cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Chuck, aircraft havent got the structural integrity requirements of a car in the event of an impact. I dont know of anywhere which cant be reached by anti-rust protectant in a car. A long thin hose with nozzle will get in most places and is easily fabricated for use with most home air sprayers (the ones for underbody crap). All panels in a car are designed to have drain holes in them, and access points, otherwise they cannot paint them from factory, even with electro-static spray methods. If you have to plate where there originally was a drain hole, the drain hole should be re-drilled.

Cheers, Owen

["Z" UTE]

Owen, I certainly would not recommend any procedure other than welding for a structural car part. Yes the wings of an aircraft just rip off in the event of an impact.

I guess I should have made the point, that, for someone with no welding skills, and no access to a "competent" weder/tradesman, then a non structural repair, could quite easily be undertaken using an Epoxy glue, and patches. This followed by a tidy up around the edges, a smear of body filler, and a lick of paint, and the repair would be 1000% better than a "bog" job.

Not all cars have a single skin, I remember a certain rustbucket Jaguar, that had a double layer skin, no rust proofing between the layers, and certainly no way of getting any cleaner or preventative in the cavity.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

fair enough, but what ever happened to the old pop riveted plate?? does a similar job to ya $90 epoxy, and costs about $3. The popriveted plates which were put into the rear qtrs of my car some years before I got it are still going strong. As for double skinned, an idea there might be to fix the rust, and drill a hole in the inner skin to add rust preventative. A clean hole will not reduce the structural integrity by much.

Cheers, Owen

[Adash=P]

Any pics of the infected areas?

One tip from me, get all of the cancer out. If you don't It will come back, bigger and worse.

[5m3g_head]

OK folks Ive finnaly got arount to starting this job. but I have a few more questions.

1. Like most MA61 I have rust aound the fuel flap. Do I need to drain and remove the fuel tank before working on this area ? I was wondering if I could get away with draining the fuel tank and removing the filler pipe.

2. There is some rust in some of the seams. I have ground out what I can get at but what about the stuff I cant reach. any tricks ?

3. also on the seams are some white silicon stuff. I assume this is to keep the water out. does anyone know what its is and whereI can get some.

4. how the hell do those strips around the windscreen come off.

Cheers.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

4 - Undo screw at bottom of strip and slide down. However most of these cars have had windscreens replaced by 'Joe' who has just siliconed them back on.

[o_man_ra23]

1. remove the tank... WORST thing you can do is drain and remove the filler neck, this will produce the best atmosphere for an explosion. You could do it with a full tank, and wrap soaking wet rags around the filler neck and around the tank. It is fuel vapour that ignites, you can drop a lit match/cigarette into a full bucket of fuel and it will go out.

2. die grinder... will get anything, just make the hole bigger and weld a bigger plate in.

3. get some polyurethane stuff in a calking gun tube.. better than the original (filler technology has improved since the 80s)

Cheers, Owen