4agze CAS into 4AGE

**BigWorm** · 29-07-2006, 07:40 PM

Cuzzo, here's a better pic of my blanked off dizzy cap. I cut the dizzy cap "flange" off, where it tapers out, & siliconed on a flat piece of alloy I'd cut to shape.

**Granto** · 29-07-2006, 07:43 PM

what about on the old 86kw bigport 4ages? could you adapt the dizzy to run a ems stinger? hmm

Grant.

**ROTFL-ACT** · 29-07-2006, 09:49 PM

Bigworm, Awesome work on the mod, do you have any pictures of when you were fabricating it, from distributer to CAS?

**Granto** · 30-07-2006, 02:03 AM

hey wow that really is good.. you could put a "Bigworm" stamp on it and put them on ebay

**Cuzzo** · 31-07-2006, 06:02 PM

Well i started to modify my smallport dizzy into a CAS. Well by covering it with something.

Soo after reading Mr Bigworm's post and checking out some pictures i decided to cut the top of the dizzy of to cover with a plastic plate.

And stooopid me cut it, then fit it over back onto the dizzy. Then i realise that i cut a perfectly good dizzy cap.

What happened was the bigport distributor Mr Bigworm used is infact different to my Smallport Distributor, internally.

See Fig 1.

The pickups stick up above the top of where i would put my plastic plate.

See Fig 2.

Other pics:

So now i dont know what to do just yet. I might cut it a bit further back. After the first 2 plugs and try to put something on there. But i'll use the one i already cut first to see if it will work.

**BigWorm** · 31-07-2006, 06:52 PM

Damn, that's a bugger, so is the body of the small port dizzy shorter than the big port dizzy, so that the sensors would both stick out the same distance from the head? It sort of looks like it in that first pic.
Also, that bekelite looking insulator cover over the sensor in the big port dizzy, the one that says on it "Do Not Remove!", I removed that & pissed it off, I figured without 10,000 volts or so whizzing around above that sensor it wouldn't need it, & havn't had a problem without it there.

And the rotor button, you can just pull it off the shaft instead of cutting it, I then cut the shaft down at the top of the first toothed wheel, which you can make out in the 2nd pic I posted on the first page.

In your case I figure you've got two options, get another dizzy cap & cut it down again but not as far, or just use the big port dizzy.

Originally Posted by ROTFL-ACT

Bigworm, Awesome work on the mod, do you have any pictures of when you were fabricating it, from distributer to CAS?

Only progress pic I have is that pic on the first page, you can see a couple of the teeth cut off & the top of the shaft cut off. I actually completely disassembled the dizzy (pulled the shaft right out) and replaced the bearing & inner oil seal while I was at it, plus it made it alot easier to trim the shaft while it was out of the dizzy.

**Cuzzo** · 31-07-2006, 07:54 PM

Im pretty sure that the bodies are the same length.
I tried pulling off the rotor button but didnt wanna budge. Any secret to it?

I cant use a bigport dizzy because my wiring is now suited to a smallport plug and i dont wanna change it again. I might use a piece of PVC pipe the same diameter and plate the top of that. I'll do something and put it up if anyone else wants to know.

Thanx for your help joel.

**EVOSTi** · 31-07-2006, 08:02 PM

yeah rotor should slide of, but now that youve cut it anyway you may as well split the rest off.

**ROTFL-ACT** · 01-08-2006, 09:05 PM

Have you made the cover already?

**Cuzzo** · 01-08-2006, 09:22 PM

Nah not yet. just been working on the wiring. All wired up to the microtech and through the firewall.

**Ben Wilson** · 02-08-2006, 10:12 AM

Bugger - If I were you, I'd be cutting another section off the cap and glueing them together. It might be ugly, but it will work.

A guy I know made up a similar setup for his NSU RO-80 (very early rotary). He cut the tubes for the leads off the cap, then epoxied up the holes and painted it. It looks factory now.