WHY does my 3S ignition cut?

[Wildsupra]

just another thought, if it is hitting boost cut, shouldnt that trigger a fault code via eng check light?

[camrygt?]

just another thought, if it is hitting boost cut, shouldnt that trigger a fault code via eng check light?

perhaps not, the gen3 3s doesn't just keeps driving like all is normal.

On a unrelated topic if you have a fault code for intercooler pump and water sensor like you mentioned before you may be running with less timing than normal. At least the gen3 ecu pulls a significant amount of timing if code 54 is present.

[-=DV=-]

Cheers for all the info guys.


The thing that confused me was the fact it wont even boost in the slightest once it does it the first time, all my other turbo cars would still boost after hitting fuel cut.
Off to get a boost gauge then, maybe i should try backing the boost controller right off too I knew that 3" dump pipe was gunna cause it to cut

Matty

yeah my 165 does the same thing after cut, u have to pull over, switch it off and start it again, so does piggys....if u unplug the wire from the map sensor on the uk and us 165s and they revert back to calculating pressure like ours, then once they hit fuel cut u have to pull over and turn off the car before they will boost again too...as for the fuel cut itself, it doesnt lean out as such..to the best of my knowledge it just cuts the signal to all the injectors so they stop squirting fuel in....i think they are the same ecu as the uk and us ones, chances are u could prolly get urself a map sensor and hook it up to the wire on the ecu for the map sensor and it will prolly start working it out from the sensor and not the afm way..then an fcd could help u out...i was going to try this until i was offered an st205 ecu i cant refuse...but if u decide to go this way..let me know how it works out for u man, im keen to know.


also from memory im pretty sure that the fault code 54 is actually the over boost fault code and not the intercooler one....ill just double check and get back to ya

[-=DV=-]

just checked...54 is the intercooler related fault
34 is teh fault it spits out when it over boosts

im not sure if it affects your fuelling or timing if the intercooler related fault is present...ive never had the fault.

[Jorrs]

i had the exact same problem with the fuel cut when i let it free boost up and it kicks in at 12 psi, id like to no how to get around it as i would like to run 15 psi, and i am about to do the 3" dump pipe and all... its a fookin pain in the ass..

[JustCallMeOrlando]

In hindsight, after seeing you have a 3" dump pipe, i'm not surprised in the slightest it's cutting. Clint's 205 did exactly the same thing.

Jorrs,
If you don't have a MAP sensor controlling the fuel cut, you may be able to do something similar to me if you're comfortable with it. I cut open my AFM (the sealed bit) to look at the spring controlling the vane. I made note of the original tooth position by marking it with a small dot of nail polish.
I then loosened the retaining clip, tightened the spring 3 notches and tightened the clip again. My AFR's are still pig rich so i'm comfortable with how it is, and it's moved my boost cut from ~14.5psi to around the 18psi mark. Probably the simplest solution.

Hope that helps

[Wildsupra]

JCMF yeah man i have done this on other cars to lean em out a bit, might try that, although i wouldnt mind knowing my A/F ratio's first just to be safe.
I knew the 3" dump may pose a problem but i had no real choice as there was simply no way the standard setup was gunna fit in the MR2.

DV yeah i would imagine that the 54 code may adjust timing as a precation, would make perfect sense. Do you have any idea how it checks for the intercooler pump working? im not using the factory pump and i dont know what plug is used to power it, so i have run my own wiring for my own pump. I can only assume this is what is causing the fault there, as the cooler is full of water.

Im off to get a boost gauge this morning which should tell me a bit more, i also need to back the boost controller right off and see if it keeps it from cutting......once i've fitted the gauge.

Cheers
Matty

[Howieau]

Yeh sounds very much like fuel/boost cut. I get the same thing in my GT4 once I pass the boost cut mark of about 12psi. Once hitting boost cut, you need to turn the car off and then back on to reset the ECU. Could it be a simple matter of its running too much boost? If you dont know how much boost youre running, Id also suggest hooking up a boost gauge to find out. When you do, if it turns out that youre running more boost than what the car can handle, you have the choice of turning it down to prevent blowing anything up. But if you think the engine can hold it fine, and its just the boost cut thats stopping you, then hook up a fuel cut defender. Have squiz at this, make your own FCD for about $10. It's really a simple concept and looks very simple to make, and can save you some pennies. I plan to make one for my GT4 soon.

http://toymr2.tripod.com/fcd.html

[hamgatan]

matty youd have more time to work out what this problem is if you werent spending it all hanging around at Rice-Salon....

[Jorrs]

In hindsight, after seeing you have a 3" dump pipe, i'm not surprised in the slightest it's cutting. Clint's 205 did exactly the same thing.

Jorrs,
If you don't have a MAP sensor controlling the fuel cut, you may be able to do something similar to me if you're comfortable with it. I cut open my AFM (the sealed bit) to look at the spring controlling the vane. I made note of the original tooth position by marking it with a small dot of nail polish.
I then loosened the retaining clip, tightened the spring 3 notches and tightened the clip again. My AFR's are still pig rich so i'm comfortable with how it is, and it's moved my boost cut from ~14.5psi to around the 18psi mark. Probably the simplest solution.

Hope that helps

ahhh yeh. is this on a gen 2 GTE ?

[Wildsupra]

matty youd have more time to work out what this problem is if you werent spending it all hanging around at Rice-Salon....

HAHA the question is what the hell were you doing there??

Ok well i installed a boost gauge just now and took it for another drive......interesting, she it trying to run around 13-15psi. I can hold it on 10psi and she is sweet as, no boost cut, however if i full throttle it, its sits around 13 and sometimes reaches about 15 where it cuts. Simply solution here is to keep boost around 10-12psi, which feels quite quick. I'l attend to that later......

I have one rather more substantial problem, it appears my turbo seals are absolutely farked!!!! When i hold it on about 10psi i cant see fark all out the rear view and i assume no one for about 50metres behind can see me

So now im not too sure what to do i have spent a shit load of money on it to date, not too mention the hours i've put in. Not sure if spending money to get the turbs re-sealed/high flowed is gunna be an option at the moment.

Any1 wanna take a stab at what the car might be worth? obviously it needs a turbo overhaul......... decisions decisions.

Matty

[Jorrs]

wat bout tryin to find anoither ct26 and puttin it on, can pick one up for couple hundred... ?
dont sell it man hey just a question did u keep the original WTA cooler on the GTE ?

[thechuckster]

you could spend a lot less on another turbo (2nd-hand) than getting the car into a saleable condition.

[Wildsupra]

wat bout tryin to find anoither ct26 and puttin it on, can pick one up for couple hundred... ?
dont sell it man hey just a question did u keep the original WTA cooler on the GTE ?

Yeah at this stage im thinkin i will fix it, she goes like a rocket on 10psi just the smoke isnt cool........ well i think it is, but im guessin all the people behind me dont

Yeah i kept the WTA and used the original AW11 air con radiator as a heat exchanger for the water Certainly brings the volume of water right up keeping temps down

Matty

[Jorrs]

mmmmmmmm yeh thats a good idea, cant wait to see the pics of it..
have you had any traction issues with it ?
i no with mine 3sgte in FWD i have a few issues at 10.. but being rwd and mid engined should be good.