Replacing head bolts with studs.

[roadsailing]

so you dont want to change the head gasket?

if you want to do it properly, pull the head off, throw the bolts away, get a new head gasket, torque down all the head studs to spec, clean the carbon off your pistons/combustion chambers and have a look at them, index the plugs if you can be bothered then put the head back on and torque to spec.

happy 22REing

[o_man_ra23]

Well, i must say its about time you piped up Mr DOHC. As i have a fair idea where your info is coming from, id go with that. But as a possible minor correction, im pretty sure the 22RE has only one small bolt at the front for the timing cover, cant remember a second when i pulled the head off the one im building atm (dont want phobia hunting all day for a second if there is only one). As a side note, if the bolt at the front was only loosened, not removed, and the turbo manifold supported/unweighted somehow (rope tied to your roof maybe), same on the intake, then the excessive weight on the head and uneven pressures would be greatly reduced. Perhaps this might be a way of removing them all then replacing with the studs, then torquing with the nuts. If the head were to be lifted, then it might be a good opportunity to install a VRS kit to freshen things a little. otherwise, the head would be lifted with the heavy turbo still hanging on, and you would still have the same uneven stresses when putting the head back on. I cant see a problem with getting the studs in finger tight with the head still on.

Cheers, Owen

[PHOBIA]

Thank you to all that have posted your thoughts.

On a side note I would just like to clear up a few things before we get of track. Firstly shinybluesteel, it's not so much that I don’t want to change the head gasket. It's a copper gasket to start with and the whole assembly is about 400klms old, head and gasket included, pistons and valves are about 1000klms old so im not at all concerned about any carbon build up. It's just a time constraint thing.
I am prepared to pull the head of if need be, criky, ive done it 3 times in the last 6 months, but if I do I will miss the Dyno comp on the 15th. If I can get away without pulling the head I will also be grateful, call me lazy if you will, but if I can avoid it I will
Also the block is o-ringed so by not disturbing the head I am also giving myself a better chance at re-torqueing the head studs as the copper head gasket has already beaded itself into the o-rings.
Basically this whole exercise is to replace standard issue Toyota bolts with a specified torque value of 62ft-lbs with ARP head studs with a torque value of 80ft-lbs. With a job that sounds so simple, why should I make is so complicated.

[roadsailing]

what i was getting at was i dont think you can re-use a copper head gasket without annealing it first, due to it being clamped down already, has nothing to do with the age/carbon buildup of it at all (kinda went off track with that one).

talk to a reputable engine builder, go through your thoughts with them.

[PHOBIA]

I think that is a general miss conception about some copper head gaskets. The company that manufactured and supplied mine has many examples of using the head gaskets many times without problem. I have even been told that the second and third time will aid in the torqueing process eliminating constant re-torqueing of the head bolt/studs. I have spoken to quite a few reputable engine builders with mixed results, but from what I have got from here and other avenues it is definitely worth a try before I rip the head of again. I do value the opinions of the members of this forum and like most things you can never have enough input from people with experience. Thanks again.

[PHOBIA]

I just wanted to update this thread for anyone interested. I have just successfully completed the ARP stud conversion on my 22R-E without lifting the head.
As previously discussed the procedure used involved backing of the standard head bolts to 50ftpds and removing one bolt at a time replacing with the ARP stud and torqueing up to 50ftpds. Once all the studs where fitted I followed the recommended torque sequence and torqued the head to eventually 90ftpds.
The results speak for themselves after Toymods dyno day 12.5 with the motor performing well, not pushing out any coolant, and finally having a stable AFR and a perfect power curve.
Basically, the job can be done, just take your time, use the recommended thread lube and make sure there is no oil in the block threads before threading in the studs (a tightly rolled length of newspaper works wonders for this)
Good luck to anyone that is looking at this upgrade.

[BeRad]

arp recomends 60ftlbs if im not mistaken. ??

[takai]

Depends on the engine, the 4A is 65-70ft/lbs

[PHOBIA]

For my studs ARP recommended 80ft/lbs when using there specific thread lube up to 120ft/lbs if using engine oil on the threads. I used there specific thread lube but at the same time couldn't guarantee that I had the threads fully free of oil so I decided on 90ft/lbs.

[Youngy]

I just did this too - and the arp instructions I had said 90ftlbs.

Only issue I have is the rocker arm cover fouls on the slightly taller than stock front pair of studs.

So I have to machine two small pieces of webbing on the inside of the cover for clearance.

Anyone else have this issue?

[MWP]

I am having a problem with pressurising the cooling system when running over about 20-22psi through my 22R-E.

If this is the case i would be pulling the head right off to check that headgasket, give it a clean and a fresh coat of hylomar.
If coolant has got past the HG, itll be dirty and there is a good chance that just torquing it up tighter with the studs wont help.

[PHOBIA]

It all worked out fine. The motor has been fighting strong for the last 5 years.

I even have it reliably tuned on 98 now thanks to SAS! We got rid of the need to run Avgas at the higher boost levels and even put a cat back on without losing any top end! Legal, safe and allot easier! As much as I loved the smell of Avgas, it is much better bring able to pull up at the pump!

[Youngy]

I found an answer to my question:

"Late valve covers need the inner rib cut down to clear the ARP studs in most cases. Both sides. Easy fix :-)"

From Tim at DOA engines on another forum. So right now I am getting the inside of the cover machined. Hopefully that will be that little bug sorted!

[ToyTA22]

Where did you buy your ARP studs from?
I bought mine from Toyheadauto USA, for my 2tgeu and they are 17mm too long and have not had a reply in two weeks now. About incorrect item.

Wtih your situation I would definately remove head completely, change gasket and check for straightness before reassembly.

[andrew_mx83]

It all worked out fine. The motor has been fighting strong for the last 5 years.

I even have it reliably tuned on 98 now thanks to SAS! We got rid of the need to run Avgas at the higher boost levels and even put a cat back on without losing any top end! Legal, safe and allot easier! As much as I loved the smell of Avgas, it is much better bring able to pull up at the pump!

a mate of mine used to have a mental, avgas slurping clevo in his XR falcon. we would go out cruising for the night, and whenever the tank got to half we had to turn around and go home, in case in ran out and we were stuck lol