GUIDE: Fixing Oil leak in Timing Chain Tensioner ( 18R-G 3T-GTE 2T-G )

[The Witzl]

Teh Witzl's guide to fixing the oil leak in your no.2 Timing Chain Tensioner.

For 18R-G / 2T-G / 3T-GTE engines

So, you've got an upper timing chain tensioner (often called no.2, for the camshaft chain) that's making a nice little mess of your engine bay... or a bloody big mess, like it has been for me -

Messy engine bay

This is ghey, considering that a replacement tensioner is anywhere from $150-300 depending on where you go, and if you can find one.

So here is a simple fix to eliminate the majority of cases....

Start with a trip to your local CBC (consolidated bearing company) or similar bearing/oil seal supplier.
Ask for an 11 x 2mm O-ring.

1/ Loosen off the tensioner lock nut (A). You'll need 2 x 24mm spanners, or one 24mm spanner and a 24mm socket. Don't completely undo it, just loosen off the locknut so that you can unscrew it by hand.

2/ Remove the tensioner body. You'll need a biiiig spanner, around 30mm from memory. You can use a massif shifter, if you are careful. You remove it by undoing the large nut that is mated to the surface of the head (C).

3/ Clean off excess oil from the body, and place the tensioner on a clean working surface. Carefully remove the circlip from the end of the tensioner that pushes against the chain. (B)

4/ Whilst holding it together, turn the tensioner up so that the end you removed the circlip from is pointing downwards. Now carefully draw out the tensioner plunger (D)- but try to keep the spring and small metal shaft inside the spring together with the plunger. If this spring comes out there are some really really nasty small bits to put back together underneath that spring that will just snap your feeble toymods mind.
Put the plunger safely aside in a way such that the spring wont come out.

5/ With a screwdriver, push downwards through the top of the tensioner body to push out the centre shaft thingy (E).

6/ Remove the p00p00 o-ring from the shaft thingy, and replace with a new one you bought earlier.

7/ Reassemble, and reset your chain tension. Check with your engine service manuals about checking the operation and tension of your specific engine's tensioner.


NB: i was silly and removed the tensioning nut in this pic...

[shelldrake]

when I pulled mine to bits the other day I found there were two rings. The one you mentioned and one that acts like a buffer(?) between parts e and d. The ring was quite hard like cork...Did you not have one in your assembly or deem it not neccesary?

[The Witzl]

that ring you speak of is more like a plastic bush. You can kind just see it still mated against part D in the picture above.

[Rcubed]

great pics! Wish i'd taken some when i did mine.
having had the bonnet rustproofed with the amount of oil coming out, Parts C & E were removed and cleaned. Part C was then dipped in oil. a liberal amount of oil safe silicon was placed around the existing seal [which was worn flat on the outside] - you really don't need much. after the silicon skinned it was gently placed back. leak stopped completely.

[The Witzl]

hmmm... i think the "gasket" shown in the diagram there is something also often missed, which is something i will be sure to replace.

Anyone know if that's supposed to be paper, cork or copper washer... i would think copper washer.

[Rcubed]

hmmm... i think the "gasket" shown in the diagram there is something also often missed, which is something i will be sure to replace.

Anyone know if that's supposed to be paper, cork or copper washer... i would think copper washer.

the gasket's made of compressed paper.
had it break and found that it does a vital job - keeping high pressure oil in .
rustproofed the chassis rail and a/c compressor whilst dropping the contents of the sump in about 5mins of driving. only noticed it as the temp started to rise - oil pressure was still ok but lower than normal too.

[RT104GT]

Carboard. You can make one from good quality gasket material available by the sheet from repco. Just punch outer diameter with pipe inner with punch. Qed

[RT104GT]

A US Suzuki budy has found me complete 18RG timing kits with gaskets and gears and chains. landed price is goung to be about $250.00 Australian so I am waiting for the first one and I will post details here.

[shelldrake]

Exactly what is included though....tensioners, slippers and chains...?

[barned01]

I found my old link off the old forums about this
I will hunt down the pictures as they don't seem to work now
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_292088
but there is also a web page lying around with instructions on how to pull it apart as well.
As for completeness i will hunt it down to add to this thread.

Oh. Witzl: Yay that you changed to your ald avatar, i am happy now

[RT104GT]

Exactly what is included though....tensioners, slippers and chains...?

I said I am waiting and will post details

[sillycar chick]

Start with a trip to your local CBC (consolidated bearing company) or similar bearing/oil seal supplier.
Ask for an 11 x 2mm O-ring.

Geez I wish you had of posted this up a few months ago when I reco'd my tensioner, instead of me spending literally HOURS trawling through my dad's and Aussie Auto's collections of O-rings to find ones that may have worked!! (I got there in the end, as the thing hasnt leaked yet touch wood)

+ rep for you, cos if I ever have to do it again, ill know straight away which O ring I need!

[The Witzl]

Yeah it took a few mintues of messing about in the trays at my local CBC - but the guy there was pretty switched on and using his magical "O-ring measuring tool" and my measurements of the tensioner body and backstroke plunger we managed to find the right size.

Barned - yeah I just cant go past the buddy christ.

[o_man_ra23]

Good stuff, I would plus rep you if I hadnt just done so for another thread .

As for the gasket, something I found when I was putting one of my engines together was that I had a major leak right there, thread tape, silicone, cardboard gaskets, copper orings and combinations of all the above did not do squat. What had happened was on the head mating surface a dag had developed. I rubbed this down with some sandpaper (proper precautions taken to ensure no alu filings in motor) and reassembled with said cardboard gasket, and no other additives. Didnt leak after that.

Cheers, Owen

[The Witzl]

Good stuff, I would plus rep you if I hadnt just done so for another thread .

As for the gasket, something I found when I was putting one of my engines together was that I had a major leak right there, thread tape, silicone, cardboard gaskets, copper orings and combinations of all the above did not do squat. What had happened was on the head mating surface a dag had developed. I rubbed this down with some sandpaper (proper precautions taken to ensure no alu filings in motor) and reassembled with said cardboard gasket, and no other additives. Didnt leak after that.

Cheers, Owen

Application no.82 for Loctite 567 - Master Thread Sealant