The Mega Supercharger 4AGZE thread, using twinscrew charger

[jondee86]

Sounds about right The Sprintex dyno above give a good idea of what happens when you run the 1.4 PR unit up to 2 bar discharge pressure. Efficiency drops off and it makes more heat, and delivers less air mass. Making a 2.0 PR unit seems to improve the situation according to KB, but they are only looking at the plus 15 psi operating area. As you point out, below 15 psi the charger will be wasting energy by over-compressing the air.

Probably be some people who are hanging out for more top end performance, but it does not mean diddley to me. I'll be happy with the 1.4 PR unit, and run it at 6 psi until I can't resist the urge for moar powah !!!!!

Cheers... jondee86

[jondee86]

Pic of a N.A. smallport intake gasket on the GZE manifold...



Seems the GZE manifold doesn't get the port cleanup that the N.A. manifold gets to better match the ports in the head. Don't think I'll bother hogging them out, as a bit of extra turbulence in there won't make much difference

Cheers... jondee86

[trdee]

I have never mucked around with modding the s/c inlet manifold, figured it would be a waste of time. Does the sprintex have an internal bypass system? If it does, then perhaps move to the N/A inlet manifold?

[knightrous]

No internal bypass on the Sprintex, just setup a 42mm wastegate like Dave101 has on his.

[jondee86]

No internal bypass on the Sprintex, just setup a 42mm wastegate like Dave101 has on his.

Is Dave101 using the wastegate as a by-pass valve, or does he have a blow-through system ?

Cheers... jondee86

[trdee]

he is using it as a bypass valve and pressure regulator iirc.

if it doesnt have an internal bypass then don't bother, probably not worth the headfuck. stock gze manifold will still make you the power you are after and is much neater

[RonRob]

Sorry to join the party so late but I have an old email address on this forum I need to update. 1.5L for 1k is a good price. With high compression your lag (if you want to call it lag) with the bigger blower at lower speeds should be minimum. Here is a dyno plot of the one size smaller 1.33L autorotor on a 4agze small port. We where attempting a 300whp dyno run yet fell short as we had a boost leak and ran pretty lean. We made the same power on the smaller 2087 autorotor .87L, except with a2w intercooler and 2.5 inch piping at 21psi. Both compressor dyno plots where done on a stock small port 4agze with about a 10 minute tune. This dyno was made with the stock Aw11 intercooler and 2 inch piping.

We have changed our inlet and bracket to now fit the Sprintex s210 and s335. Our kit will bolt to your 4age with gze manifold and lower sc bracket. if you opt for the 1.5L, the inlet manifold in the pic below will fit the 1.5L autorotor and I have a few left.







Ron

[knightrous]

Love that torque curve (lol, more like torque straight...).

[jondee86]

This is the Opcon OA3150 1.5l/rev dyno for a 4AGE race engine running on methanol without an intercooler...



The price is good, but it comes with a nose extention (I need the short version) and the phsical dimensions are just a bit more than I would like. So for the moment I am figuring on using the smaller Sprintex.

Cheers... jondee86

[nick.parker]

Wow, pretty impressive 'torque flat' - I'd like to see whats happening below 5500rpm with the torque. For me the whole point of adding a positive displacement SC to a car is the increased torque starting from just above idle and fabulous drivability. Having been down the road of bigger cams, solid engine mounts and grabbier clutches with my supercharged car, I've learnt how nice it is not to have serious engine vibration in the cockpit and to have smooth clutch and also how satisfying it is to have a good low end torque curve for regular driving including the odd 20kph (as sign-posted anyway) hairpin on a hill!

[jondee86]

Sure... that's exactly what I am after... having something happen right away when I put my foot down in 4th gear, instead of having to change down a gear to make a pass. That graph belongs to this car...



Anthony got tired of breaking GZE blocks, so he made his own billet two-piece aluminum 4AGE block. Being a race car, the engine works at the top end of the rev range all the time, and the Opcon charger gives pretty much instant acceleration... just the thing for jumping out of the corners

Cheers... jondee86

[knightrous]

Is that a Sprint car?

[jondee86]

Dirt track oval racer... I call them midget cars This is the block. The rules allow the engine to be layed over to some max angle, but the centreline of the crank has to stay close to the centreline of the chassis.







The 4-bolt main bearing caps are integrated into the dry sump, so the two pieces of the block are held together by a total of 20 studs.

Cheers... jondee86

[nick.parker]

Thanks for sharing Jondee86 - I love looking at this kind of engineering - someone please do a regular 4AGE / 7AGE version

[knightrous]

Wow, I've seen a lot of 4A setups and this has to be the most serious one yet.
Why are there not more of these?!