go down to the wreckers - you will find other similar age toyotas use identical plugs.
Just chop them off and use them if you want to preserve the original loom.
I'm installing an Adaptronic ECU on my ST215 3SGTE and would like to make up a whole new loom for it. Can you buy bare plugs somewhere and are they hard to install on bare wires properly? Alternatively is there a way to re-use the original connectors without butchering them? They all seem to be in good condition.
I'll want plugs for the injectors, TPS, etc etc... basically all the sensors that attach to the engine.
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
go down to the wreckers - you will find other similar age toyotas use identical plugs.
Just chop them off and use them if you want to preserve the original loom.
...... butt scratcher?!
I'm not at all attached to the loom I have, it's already cut so there's no harm in butchering it more! I just wasn't sure if you could maybe buy new plugs from an auto electrician or Toyota or something.
So anyway assuming my only option is to use what I've got (or get others from the wreckers), how do I:
(a) remove the old wires and
(b) attach new wires
I've never worked with anything more than very very basic soldring and criping on the odd spade connector here or there.
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
You can remove the old terminals using a small screwdriver and pushing the tab down. (Poke the screwdriver through the non-wire side and pull on the wire out the back, you should see a spot where to put the screwdriver to push the tab down)
New terminals can be bought for some of them. (Try an AMP reseller in your area, bring them a sample)
The connectors themselves (ie. the housings) *may* be available as well, but I havent tried.
If there is adequate wiring then you could just cut and solder to the existing wires, which saves depinning and crimping etc.
If you pull them out and post pics I may have some spare terminals from when I did my loom.
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
Ok so I take it that the plastic housing you keep, and that the whole pin & wire you push out, then you solder each wire to a new pin and then push the pins through the housing where they lock in.... if that's the case, I understand
The plugs are from a late model engine, ST215 Calinda 3SGTE so whatever terminals they run. I will see if i can get some pics. Not being electronically minded this is all new to me!
Also, what/who is AMP?
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
The wires are crimped onto the terminal, with the appropriate crimping tool. Then pushed into the housing.
AMP is a company who manufacture the termainls/housing. (Owned by Tyco now). They are the OEM supplier. Bare in mind though, the minimum order quantities for most of their pins are quite excessive.
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
The generic square connectors (water temp sender, TPS etc) can be bought from most Auto electrician for about $12-$18 and they include the new terminals. The round 3sg(t)e injector plugs are not available (From memory Toyota does not even stock them new), so you're best bet is to re-use some old ones.
1972 TA22 2TGZEU - Now with Z Powaaah! (Go, go Gadget Torque!)
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Thanks guys
As the loom has been cut in the one place I'm thinking I might just add a couple of generic connectors from Jaycar.
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
For easiness sake, I would use your existing engine loom & just join at the cut end with either a generic bulk plug, that way you can separate the engine loom when (if) you pull the engine out.
The Caldina's engine loom goes through the firewall & is then connected to plugs behind the glovebox, which is a PITA IMHO because you need to pull that rubber grommet through into the engine bay.
Mind you, there's no need to have that plug waterproofed.
Alternatively, Subaru's (for example) tend to have the big waterproof plugs adjacent to the engine.
Cut them off a Liberty at a place like Pickies, then solder, heatshrink & tape up.
I've been out there a bit lately (trying to get my damn Excel to run), so if you need some help, let me know.
You can buy plugs new from toyota you just need to know the part number because most spare parts people cant be bothered looking for them.
They dont come with pins though.
Yeah I think that's what I'll do - I'll just make a point of shielding the connectors from heat and water.
This should show a lot of the part numbers etc for Toyota harnesses. Thanks for Peter for this link.
http://departments.weber.edu/automot...s%20Repair.pdf
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
Just noticed you're in Qld.
Salisbury wreckers was good for picking bits.
If you use the Subaru ones, you won't need to waterprrof the plugs, they are already like that, you'll just need to seal the soldered joint properly.
If you do the soldering of the wires, make each of them a slightly different length. That way the joints (which will be thicker than the wire) don't all line up & you won't end up with as huge a blob in your wiring loom.
Some of the places that supply aftermarket ECUs should also be able to sell you the plugs if you wish.
There is really no need to make it so complicated.
Just chop the plugs off the factory loom, leaving about 15cm of wire. Then route the new Adaptronic loom from the ECU, and solder the corresponding wires to each plug (using heatshrink to insulate each solder join).
Pretty bloody easy really.
...... butt scratcher?!
IF your interested in the bulkhead connector I just found this guy on ebay/diyautotune
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/22-way-Bulkhe...d=p3911.c0.m14
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/w...kit-p-364.html
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/40130.pdf
Looks great I think i might grab one for my current project, the DIY autotune one has varying guage pins so you can run higher current stuff on a single pin
Phill
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