1UZ Conversion wiring issue

[viccelicara23]

Hi

Currently in the progress of trying to wire up my 1UZ into my RA28 Celica. I have got the engine to to crank but will not start.

I have checked and I'm getting spark on the drivers side(right hand) bank but no spark on the left hand bank. Have tried swapping the ignitors but it makes no difference.

Have checked and I have continuity of all wires back to the ecu and coils. The injectors on the left hand side are also not opening, dont believe drivers side is opening either but havnt tested yet. Putting it into diagnostic mode I get code 15 sometimes then it will go away and then other time i get code 47.

What are some possible causes of this?

[RA35GT]

Maybe a power wire missing?

[viccelicara23]

Maybe a power wire missing?

I have 12v at the ignitors as well as the coils, same with all the injectors.

[RA35GT]

This is very strange, as each coil provides spark for two cylinders on each bank. Thus if only one bank isn't working, that means both ignitors/coils are not working correctly.

Have you whacked a noid light (or similar) to the injector connectors? Possible blocked injectors?
I can't really think of anything that would only affect one bank of cylinders. (except a cam/valve issue, but that won't stop it igniting/injecting)

Are you sure all earths are correctly fitted? (I think there's a number of them behind the heads)

[litldv8]

are you checking spark from the coils or at the spark plugs would explain why only one bank.
have you tried swapping coils they are old enough that they are starting to fail.
should there be a 5v signal at the ignitor?
check on the side that is working.

[viccelicara23]

Ok I've made a mistake I checked at the coils so on rechecking the coil on the top is working but the coil on the passenger side isnt. I tried plugging the upper coil into the spot of the lower passenger side coil and still nothing, so it isnt one bank just the ones controlled by the passenger side coil. I dont have a noid light but have tried the multimeter across the terminals of one of the injector and have no difference both terminals have 12v when the ignition is on and cranking
.

in regards to earths I have a small gauge earth at the rear of each head and the large guage earth at the front of the passenger head. All the earths are connected to the battery.

Both ignitors have the 12V supply and the 5v signal when the ignition is on.

thanks for your help so far guys

[RA35GT]

Did you check all the injectors or only one? The ecu won't fire the injectors until it gets confirmation of spark from the ignitors, so that may explain why they aren't firing. (or the multimeter is too slow. Are the spark plugs wet?)

I actually meant the earths for the ecu etc. Should be like a number of them off a terminal on the back of each head.

I can't recall if this is possible, but can you swap the ignitor connectors and see if the problem moves or stays?

[litldv8]

what about power at the ignitors when you are cranking not just in the on position
the ignitors are stacked on each other and you will be able to swap the plugs
they are keyed alike too
get a noid light - a multimeter is not fast enough for the injectors unless it has a graph/scope function

[viccelicara23]

Ok just come back up from the shed, swapping the ignitors doesnt change anything in regards to spark but I checked one of the spark plugs that's getting spark and it was wet but so was one of the ones that isnt getting a spark, as I was cranking it to try and check if the sparks plugs were getting wet it actually started to kick a little. I really think you guys are right about a dodgy coil pack though. One of my mates has a spare so ill try and see if I can borrow it off him tomorrow to try out. I also moved those earths you were talking about on the back of the head and have hooked them straight up to the battery.

[nathanshnoz]

are the igniters earthed properly? i had lots of issues with my conversion and even had a day when the car would not start at all and it turned out they were not earthed very well and it was an intermittent fault. do all injectors have positive voltage with the ignition on yes? a NOID light would be very handy as then you can see if the injectors are pulsing which if they are not. this makes me think the issues are more relating to ECU than anything else, or at least a signal not getting to ECU or ECU not giving out a correct signal (assuming that you do in fact have voltage at the injectors, if they are just not pulsing they are either ALL blocked which is unlikely or ECU is not telling them to pulse). These motors will pretty much run even on say 4 or 5 cylinders ( yeah i have tried this) so if the issue is only with one or two injectors or cylinders the motor will still fire and should start. therefore i think what others are saying about coils or igniters would be worth checking as they could be on the way out or already cooked. is the motor out of an SC400 or an LS400 and what year is the motor?

[dumbass]

u might also have stuck injectors from engine sitting round for many years

also left hand side front injector right next to it are 2 plugs for the front loom
make sure they are both plugged in
normally a 6 pin plug for cam crank sensors which sounds like its ok
but then theres a 2 or a 4 pin plug which powers and triggers left hand coil

noid lights are useless on all injectors on a 1uz as some are hard to get to
just use a stethoscope and listen for them clicking this way u can check if any are stuck shut

[viccelicara23]

Ok I have replaced the coil and am now getting spark on all cylinders.

I made up a noid light and have found that the injectors are only getting 2-3 pulses while cranking and then stops pulsing. It will kick but then immediately dies..

Turning off the fuel pump and cranking it, it will still only get the 2-3 pulses while cranking for longer. This is the same on two different injectors plug one for a cylinder run by each coil, I am hesitant to remove more as the plugs are very brittle and these two clips broke removing them. The coils continue to fire as im getting spark its not stopping when the injectors stop pulsing.

The front loom plugs are plugged in and the igniters are well grounded they are currently bolted to the negative terminal of the battery. I am still also getting the ignition code 15 and throttle position code 47.

The engine is out of a 91 SC400 and has the 40/40/40 pin Ecu.

[viccelicara23]

Opened up the ecu and it h
as one leaking capacitor.

[dumbass]

Might have something to do with code15
Can u spray aerostart down butterfly and at same time have a noid light on one injector
Then start engine and keep spraying aerostart and check if noid light keeps pulsing
Try keep it running for 10 seconds
If noid light still pulses u prob have stuck injectors
Don't think code 47 will cause this issue as its sub throttle sensor
Otherwise find what code 15 means and fix that

[dumbass]

Last resort change ecu