Boost Controller - Pro's & Con's

[Dispatcher]

Hi all, am trying to determine a suitable boost controller for my 1JZ, I've heard that Apexi, HKS and Turbosmart all make great stuff. Has anyone here used any other form of controllers, i.e. vac line type, electronic with map sensor etc.

Thanks much
Dispatcher

[Dropbear]

Greddy profec b spec 2

[obrim]

I use Gizzmo MS-IBC. Very cheap and easy to use. Doesn't have a nice little GUI but does the job.

[fixeruperer]

i have no problems with an old fashioned bleed valve they are cheap and easy to use, but i have a turbosmart eboost2 aswell, i think its pretty good with lots of options you can tailor to your application like shift lights, boost lights, over boost control, mapped boost levels in different gears and so much more.

they are all pretty much the same, some are harder to use than others.

[Dispatcher]

Eboost2 ?..heard some good stuff about those..The bleed valve thingy is risky is it not ?

Thanks
Dispatcher

[pandaah]

depends what type of bleed valve you use, ~2psi of unstable or spiking boost isnt unnatural for them, ive used the HKS EVC3 and im looking at purchasing a HKS EVC4 or 5, i reckon there a great unit too, but i think the eboost 2 is a great piece of gear too..

when it comes to EBC's i find that you should get one which suits you, and that you like, easy to use for yourself or maybe you like it complicated.. but they all practically do the same shit

[fixeruperer]

ive never had a problem with bleed valves and i dont know anyone that has, but i have "heard" they can boost spike


with an electronic boost controller, you can program how much boost you want and how hard it comes on, so if you do spike or it doesnt come on hard enough, you can adjust on how fast the waste gate opens.

[JZA70 R]

what mods are done to your 1j? is it still stock turbo or still retain the factory computer?

[Dispatcher]

Currently standard. Just wanted to get the original feel before I start going berserk with the upgrades. It Still had the factory computer. Might go piggy back. Yet to decide.

Cheers
Dispatcher

[TheDarkRaver]

I have always had great success with a simple bleed valve, plus you cant go past the price of them compared to a electronic boost controller. The usual only difference you will notice between a bleed valve and an electronic boost controller is that boost will come on slightly earlier with the electronic jobbie as they can stop the wastegate from starting to open before reaching the deired boost level, by bleeding all the air off until just before the desired boost is reached.

With a std setup I would just grab yourself a $50 turbo smart bleed valve or something similar and have a play with that. Most of the time for most people it will do the job just fine. And if you find it doesnt do the job for you, i.e the boost is spiking etc then sell off the bleed valve and fork out the $300-$500 for an electronic boost controller.

HKS EVC4 or 5 would get my vote.

[JZA70 R]

Currently standard. Just wanted to get the original feel before I start going berserk with the upgrades. It Still had the factory computer. Might go piggy back. Yet to decide.

Cheers
Dispatcher

As soon as you add an exhaust or an intercooler the default boost pressure increases. you only have up to ~13 psi to play with before you hit boost cut on the factory ecu. even with an aftermarket ecu the map sensor will reach its limit at 18 psi.

imo dont bother with the boost controller yet, or if you absolutely have to, go the bleed valve route. pick a reputable one and you shouldnt have any problems.

[jonathan yee]

i've got an HKS EVC 5, easy to use and set up, my broinlaw has an apexi AVCR way too complicated and over the top for my liking, ten million wires to run to the ecu etc.

[1jz68u]

in my experience with 1jz stock turbos and boost controllers, use a bleed valve.

i tried HKS EVC4, profecB DSBC, and AVCR all failed, they wouldnt keep constant boost and spiked all over the place, simple bleed valve gave me the most consistent result.

also agree with JZA70 R, as soon as you put dump pipes on it you will be hitting fuel cut anyway.

HTH

Glenn

[bungs]

Greddy profec b spec 2

I have one of these on my 1j and definitely recommend it. Pretty much set and forget, I have 2 settings 13 and 16 psi, holds it steady all the way to redline and haven't had any troubles in the 3 years i've had it.

[Dispatcher]

Thank you all for the feedbacks, I guess I'll start low with the Bleed-Valves type and work from there to get a feel. Keep It Simple

Cheers

[BEVANI]

im running full 3in exh and turbosmart boost tee@15psi and am not seeing any boost or fuel cut?! or am i just not pushing my car hard enough lol

[1jz68u]

if you are hitting 15psi it would suggest to me that your fuel cut has been removed as it should cut at 14.5psi

[BEVANI]

jzz30 stock ecu... emanage blue with a minimal base map i found on the net... how would i know if i had the fuel cut?

[1jz68u]

if you got the map off the net ask the person that made the map.

i would suggest however though that it has either been raised or removed completely.

if in doubt you should be able to send the map to cihan (http://www.etuner.com.au/) i think his name is and he should be able to tell you.

[JZA70 R]

if you are hitting 15psi it would suggest to me that your fuel cut has been removed as it should cut at 14.5psi

with the safc (piggyback) as soon as you remove fuel from the map (lean it out) it will raise the boost cut (piggyback = sensor bender). i would assume here that this also applies to your emanage... hence the higher (or removed) boost cut.

iirc boost cut is at 13.5 or something isnt it? pretty sure it was below 1 bar (14.5)