I have rounded one of the nut that holds the shock absorber to my chassis. How do I grind off the nut without damaging the chassis.
Bash a smaller socket on with a hammer then undo, use vice grips, angle grinder if all else fails.
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
What car, and is it on the front or rear?
There's a few options before trying to grind it off:
try and file a couple of faces square again and get something on it
bash on a smaller socket/spanner
cold chisel
vice grips
use a nut breaker
I am the sun
Very carefully
EDIT: these guys beat me to it^^
What size is the nut? Try using the next smallest socket, weather it be metric or imperial and hammer it on to the damaged nut.
You could try heating it up to break the bond with oxy torch or Bernza-Matic if you have one
If your gonna use vise grips make sure they are clamping really tight. make sure the teeth have a good grab on the nut. or else you'll just find yourself rounding it more.
Either way, if your already prepared to grind it off now, might aswell try other ways first.
Member Of The Leaf Sprung Axle Trampers Club
if you're filing edges and trying again, use impact sockets, or good hex spanners only
the multifit ones are great for decent bolts but useless for weak ones
JZX83
UCF11
Use a Chisel and a hammer, takes a bit of time to learn what angle to hold the chisel best, be careful if you are working in an area where you could possibly damage other things.
all good ideas, or you could try a socket called a 'gator grip', i think.
Expensive 32mm socket filled with spring loaded shafts. You just push the socket onto whatever ya wanna undo, the shafts compress round the nut/whatever, and it undoes with ease.
theyll work on anything from 11mm to 32mm, and any shape but round.
Cost me a bit, but its been awesome.
1991 Corolla Seca SX Ghetto Turbo and tuning coming soon
"I didn't match the shape, I just stuck it in there and broke it" G. Quagmire.
is the car still on the ground?
always undo top nut on suspension while there is upward pressure on it, ie having the car on the ground.
Bunnings also sell a socket set for rounded nuts in the tool shop (at lest Bunnings Rockdale does as I saw them last week)
They are called Bolt-Grip, made by Irwin tools.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri...ref=pd_cp_hi_1
I think they also carry the Grip-Tite brand ones
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Tite-0011.../dp/B001BZMPI8
Last edited by MR22ZZ; 28-06-2009 at 10:26 PM.
If you're still trying, a stud remover can also be handy depending on the size of the nut, and it saves you from damaging the stud as well. Not always suitable for all sizes/locations but see how ya go....
Chuck Norris once took the challenge that he couldn't shit on the ceiling....Michaelangelo still owes him ten bucks!!
New baby - RS41 Crown...1uz and a shoehorn?? Stranger things have happened....
thanks for handy tips guys. Will try.
Would a rattle gun also be an option at his stage? or will it do further damage.
weld another nut to the first.
This. We have a set, and it's saved us a few times. The harder you turn, the tighter it gets.Originally Posted by MR22ZZ
Also, give it a few whacks with a hammer first. That will help 'break the seal'. It works.
Or file/grind two flats and get a decent sized shifter onto it. Don't bother with a normal spanner, as you'll never get the flats the right distance apart for the jaws of the spanner.
Apex'i, Bomex, Carbing, Clarion, Cusco, Defi, Dynaudio, HKS, Just Alloy Radiators, Royal Purple, Sard, Shift-I, Team Orange, Tom's, TRD, Tru Tech, Wilwood, Works Bell
Because the stickers aren't going on my car...
Tereno Empireo Rapidmova Reakcii Armeno
some dude tried to help me. Tried some vice grips and nothing but more damage. Gonna head to bunnings tomorrow.
Any tips for grinding without chassis damage?
Get a small metal saw and blades and get comfy and sit there cutting the nut off.... Only way ya gonna be able to do it with out damage.
Iam tempted to recomend a "Nut cracker" tool but unless ya have expeince it could all go to shit very fast and dmage the thread of deform the thread rod
Try a punch.
Make a small hole by hitting a pointy punch at 90 degrees to the nut.
Then once you have made that hole angle the punch so you can tap the nut backwards.
Excuse the terminology... I am sure a pointy punch has another name..... just not a nail punch!![]()
Dremel plus reinforced cutoff discs.
Apex'i, Bomex, Carbing, Clarion, Cusco, Defi, Dynaudio, HKS, Just Alloy Radiators, Royal Purple, Sard, Shift-I, Team Orange, Tom's, TRD, Tru Tech, Wilwood, Works Bell
Because the stickers aren't going on my car...
Tereno Empireo Rapidmova Reakcii Armeno
That's what I've got and would recommend to cut the nut off instead of a normal grinder, but maybe try to find someone locally who can lend or drop by and use their dremel as its not a cheap tool to buy for a one off job.Originally Posted by TERRA Operative
Rep points are for those who feel inadequate in other areas !
A new tool might work like magic, depending on what you've been using.Originally Posted by lostie
It needs to be loosened from corrosion & friction as much as possible, with chemicals and/or heat, and/or shock, before getting a good as possible grip/purchase & being turned.
Don't cut the head off a bolt and then wonder how to get its threaded part out!
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cJ3B/Tech/BoltRemoval.html
http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
http://www.portlandbolt.com/faqs/clevis-pin-question
Last edited by allencr; 07-07-2009 at 01:35 AM.
Your results and/or mileage/kilometerage may vary.
I have no experience with whatever you're working on.
Originally Posted by MR22ZZ
o
BOLT GRIP! did the trick. I got some saws t get ready to cut it off. Bolt grip and a long bar got it off easy.
Was the hardest bolt, almost completely round. Many tried and failed to get it off. Whoever invented bolt-grip is a genius.
Worth the $50 for the set form bunnings