best advice for ta22 upgrade

[punkture]

okay, now that the 4agze is in and nearly finished, the brakes have been overlooked for too long now. what are the best options to use? and any personal advice would be helpfull, eg.. anyone who has done this and braking performance and lock ups etc..,
i realise i wanna change the diff so perhaps discs on rear is a great idea?

["Z" UTE]

Search before you get flamed my friend. Lotsa info on early Celica brake upgrades on the Classic Celica thread.

cheers Chuck.

[MitchE]

here comes the aroplane!




























http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...+brake+upgrade

[SeptemberSquall]

lol epic fail

[o_man_ra23]

Also look for the $250 brake upgrade... can be made to work in the TA22.

For the rear, if you stick with F or T series diff, then the RT142 Avante live axle or ST141 Avante rear disks will bolt up without issue.

[punkture]

so i keep my standrad diff then swap the axle with an avante one, then what calipers? avante ones? cheers, i was looking at the p/h/c conversion anyone done this? any 'hidden' nastys in the conversion?

[o_man_ra23]

No... standard diff (unless you have the early model, probably best just to grab an RA23/RA28/RA35 diff and use that - they have thicker axles apparently), use backing plate, discs, callipers from the Avante. You also need to move your shockabsorber mounts inboard a small way, and put a 5mm spacer behind your wheel bearing. There is a thread by GA61XX showing how to do it.

HPC front swap has the problem of callipers often hitting the webbing behind your wheel spokes. Best to find somebody with this conversion already done and try to fit your intended wheels to their car first. For a TA22 you also need to shorten the strut.

["Z" UTE]

Also look for the $250 brake upgrade... can be made to work in the TA22.

For the rear, if you stick with F or T series diff, then the RT142 Avante live axle or ST141 Avante rear disks will bolt up without issue.

Try reading the reply

[punkture]

will search the GA61XX thread, i need to get new wheels anyway as mine are 13" and from memory they dont fit... would this change to 5 spoke or 4 still? any other modifications needed to incorporate discs on rear, eg brake lines and stronger master cyl, or can i just use the 03-07 camry one still?

[o_man_ra23]

brake lines yes - have them made up once all is in place (can be done inexpensively by Pirtek, Enzed or Brakemart), camry cylinder should work a treat. 13's won't fit over the brake upgrades, 14 is a minimum, but check for spoke clearance when using callipers with opposing pistons.

You can have as many spokes as you want... but the brakes I have described all use the same 4 stud pattern that TA22s have (if that's what your talking about)

May I ask:
a) is english your first language??
b) is this the first time you have seen a car??
c) how old are you??

I don't want to seem prude with these questions, but you really do seem to be on a noob level, and have difficulties finding and interpreting the information available to you, so I would rather talk down to your level if need be, rather than talk over the top of you... if you know what I mean.

[punkture]

lol garmmar can sometimes be a bit dodgy, 1) yes english is, 2) im a mechanical engineer trainiee, and still at uni, i know my shit with engines, but a bit unfamiliar with conversions etc involving struts.. (changed turbo and mounted fmic my self etc..on the wrx) and 3) im 19.

okay ill source up some 14" wheels to start priced the struts, pug discs and calipers:

130 for pair struts, 150 pair ln106 calipers, and 270 new dba discs..
fair price??
then machining im assuming i can get it done for 20, and brake lines how much?
-ps step fathers mechanic who is helping me fit everything..

[o_man_ra23]

Ring around for the brake lines. They should be bundy tube (copper coated steel) which needs to be double flared at the ends (not something you can do at home).

You say your a mechanical engineer trainee... do you mean your doing a diploma/traineeship to become a fitter, or do you mean your a student studying to become a mechanical engineer (I am confused a bit, as the term is undergraduate for a student doing a bachelor)

Prices are relative to where you live. I paid $80 for the better RT132 struts with the 2 piston sumitomo callipers. I have seen LN106 callipers go for $40, so somewhere under $100 is probably a better price than $150, and the discs sound about right for new dba's, but I have heard people have troubles getting the dba items in anything thought of as a reasonable time, so please check delivery date when ordering.

[punkture]

im working at GHD as a trainee mech eng/ trainee technical officer similar to work experience but getting paid good =), and i got to uni studying mech engineering, uni sa in particular. yeah i used to work at repco, so i got em through them.. okay ill ring around for the calipers, would an overhaul kit be appropriate? just in case or not really?

[o_man_ra23]

Depends on the vehicle they come from. If it freshly made it to the wrecker, and they look in good order, it probably isn't necessary. It's always advisable to thoroughly inspect and kit callipers if you have any doubt about their integrity though.

Never heard of a trainee engineer... and a trainee technical officer is a design draughtsman (requires a uni diploma to finish the traineeship). Sooo... are you studying for a bachelor (4 year fulltime, or 8 year part time degree), or are you doing a diploma (I think it's 2 years part time)??

[punkture]

ahh some one knows a thing or two, studying 4 years, bach of mech eng (bmech) and yeah your correct about the technical officer, im a draftsman too, but i get to go on site, yeah i didn't think you could be a trainee either, but my sis got me this job, as she knew the preoject manager due to employment as an architect, and i asked for work experience, and got this =)

-im going to pursue the front end as the p/h/c and source some 14" wheels, that hopper stopper kit is that effective for it's price? and suspension isn't really covered, what's the best way around this? swaybars im assuming, and perhaps coilovers? i dont want much body roll thats all, would be dissapointing from a rex to a body rolling ta22 haha

[o_man_ra23]

Hoppers kit requires 16" wheels, and is overkill for your vehicle to the stage that it isn't really worth the extra unsprung mass that it brings. It would also change your front end to 5 stud.

Suspension... there is SOOOOOO much in this. A set of swaybars is a good start, you would be wise to research this very indepth, but a good starting point would be 24mm front, 18-19mm rear in a whiteline or similar. Adjustable is your friend here, at least on the rear, so that you can get your roll bias right (otherwise you could end up with bad oversteer or understeer). Springs are another point of much debate. Changing rears to coilover is difficult and hardly worth the cost unless you are competitively racing the car. Front coilovers will help you to finetune the suspension to suit the rear springs you choose, but a well matched front rear set of springs is likely a much cheaper option. A strut brace is highly recommended. NEVER think you are going to make the car handle anything like a WRX, there is simply too much chassis flex and too many years of development between the 2. Oh, a set of adjustable strut tops will help you to remove the factory positive camber. Adjustable shock absorbers is advisable if your budget affords it.

And buy good rubber. Your suspension and brakes are only as effective as the grip they have on the road. Avoid Nolathane products like the plague, they use a Nylon blend rather than polyurethane, and they just crumble very quickly. Superpro bushes are said to be quite good (and are made from polyurethane). There is a lot more to polyurethanes, but I don't think you will be able to find the bushes in the good stuff... so best to stick with commercially available bushes made of something half reasonable.

EDIT: an adjustable panhard rod will help you to bring the diff back closer to the centre of the vehicle. They move to the left on compression, and become permanently left of centre when the car is lowered. Check out Sleeka Spares in Pooraka, contact is Dave Wong on (08) 8359 6446, he is very good to deal with and has many of the components you may need.

[punkture]

ahhhhh good man, i spoke to him a while ago about 2tg gaskets etc.. good contact for this stuff, pity the website doesn't reflect it haha. yeah i was thinking rear adj, sway bar, front 22mm, and strut brace to help rigidity.

-yeah i figured they were two different cars, rex on rails sleeka on side.. haha but should be an interesting advneture with it anyways, any preference on tyres for it, being a much lighter car i was thinkiing pirelli's?

[o_man_ra23]

Have not had enough experience with new tyres to say. Michelin XM1's have a good rap (from an independant unbiased friend who used to fit tyres for a living... he is normally skeptical too). All brands have good and bad tyres, best to read up on forums... google would be a good starting point. Find out what tyres are available in the size you want, I would say 205/65/14 would be a good starting point for a track based TA22, and then start looking at their reviews (magazine articles are often published on the web). Again, research will be your best bet, and don't take just one person/article's advice, as somebody may be biased toward one brand. Also, since a 14 requires a decent sized sidewall to get any sort of rolling diameter, so you should look at a tyre with a firm sidewall to reduce tyre flex.

[punkture]

LOLS, wealth of knowledge, well basically im after a safe stopping distance in case of the obviously in experience, dont wanna go hitting walls as such. that must include suspension too, is the sway bars and pan hard rod bush etc enough to make her turn nicely? oh and obviously tyres, not slicks haha

[o_man_ra23]

swaybars, panhard rod, strut brace, springs, shocks, bushes, ball joints, tyres and brakes should help you keep the car going in the direction you want and prevent it from hitting anything you don't want. Of course, the main contributing factor to accidents isn't the car itself, more the nut behind the wheel. Get that one under control, and the car will be quite safe.