I want to move from an external slave cylinder to an internal hydraulic throw out bearing on my W55 box. Anyone got a contact or someone who has done this. The reason being we have very little room for an exhaust at the moment to run past the gearbox and body :S
Or is it as simple as buying this kit and fitting it or is it a bit more than that.
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Excellent thread. I also was very interested in this to remedy some issues with 3SGE to W57 box. I emailed these guys
http://www.alloyrace.com/
No reply.
I called them & left voicemail detailing my query and what I wanted to buy.... no reply. ..
Must have way too much business that's all I can say...
A little off topic, but keen to see what exactly is involved...
yeah i am doing the smae thing. 3sge with a w55 behind it but in a gemini
Cool. What diff ratio? Can you get a W57, better ratio's..
There's info on a concentric slave setup for the W58 here:
http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/vi...php?f=40&t=630
Ed's drawn up the CAD file for it which is available for $20US
http://v-eight.com/images/Images_For...apter_0001.jpg
http://v-eight.com/images/Images_For...apter_0002.jpg
Thx JP. that's the part that I was searching for.... +rep 2 u
My dad's running the same thing on his gt40 replica. Works a treat.
Calling Ed to this thread.
Originally Posted by rolleraction
3.9 the W55 has a 3.57 first gear but am lookin at a albins gearset
what do you do when it leaks?
Hello.
you will need to do both you master and slave sizes correctly,
You need to get the right slave to suit your inputshaft and clutch,
Fab a adaptor to the nose of your box (if a off the shelf slave isnt available.)
deffently use a pedal stop and be very careful with your bleeder setup. i will post more info when i have more time.
but ALL our cars run them and there are a real PITA until you get them right.
THANKS MERC BLUE.
im expecting not mych lefted over from $1000 after talking with my parts mate today
Whats the diff in pedal feel , Id imagine they need a bigger master , but then theres no fulcrum as with a folk , Pedal harder ??
Dave
Plenty of talk regarding 3S's here, which have exhaust on passenger side, where W5x's have clutch slave on driver side. And you say you have exhaust issues?? How difficult would it be to move the slave cyl to the opposite side?? (I assume you are using a 1G). Brett_Celicacoupe didn't have any trouble fitting the exhaust of his 1G-GTE into his RA40, he even managed to squeeze a power steering box in at one stage, but decided against using it. Maybe you just need to route your exhaust better?? As this seems to be a very expensive PITA when there surely must be a simpler and cheaper solution which will still look good and not hamper performance.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River
The position of the slave cylinder all depends on the bell housing used. I am running a 2s bell housing and its on the passenger side.
3Y bellhousing and it moves to the correct side. Puts your starter where it should be too. I think I paid $140 for my bellhousing with fork and throwout retainer. Shitload cheaper than what your talking about, and has the added bonus of keeping heat away from the starter.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River
cheers dude. I'll look into it.
Fish,
Mate there are alot of small things that you need to work out,
I dont have a W55 box so cant look at the nose but suspect it has a bolt on front main seal? this makes it very handy unbolt that seal and use it to build your adaptor to you slave/bearing
Your adptor/space for your slave will need to be machined to house the oil seal inside it so essentially it will now be a ,adaptor,spacer,seal
So purchase your slave and clutch work out how much throw is required and how much throw is avaiable on your slave.
work out how far the pressure plate, flywheel, clutch face so on is frmo a common point and use this to work out how much spacing you need to engage your slave as much as possible,
BUT be careful they have a spigot up the guts of them that wont retract and the friction plate will creep backward when you engage the clutch make sure there is NO possibility of these hitting,
I have had to machine adaptors down to within .5mm to get enough throw and still clear the spigot/friction plate.
Another issue is bleeding them, you will have to run a remote bleeder, normaly as a braided teflon hose to a more accessable place there is also a good chance you will have to cut a hole in your bell housing the bleeder MUST exit out the top off the slave and it seems logical to cut a small hose to allow the hose stright out, you can run your clutch line through the same hole i have seen clutch lines get caught in clutches so its best to keep minimal line inside the housing.
The first time you bleed and operate it NEVER put the pedal to the floor do it purly by feel and dont go past friction, you need to establish your pedal throw.
Jack the rear up and get a mate onto the wheel put it in gear and slowly engage the clutch as soon as he car turn the wheels put your stop about 5mm lower than that,
If you over throw one of these (specialy with a running engien) you will damage something,
normaly it will damage a seal somtimes the pressure plate and the actual slave itself.
Got any questions?
going to use a different bellhousing now.
but thanks for the info merc-blue. Yeah i had to make a pedal stop for the supra box into the v8. or it would grind :S
No worries mate,
Good luck with it![]()