Ok, I tried to find some info on this to no avail...
I have a 1410mm F Series diff from a MX13 to go into my RA28 and would like to hear from people who have done this or know of info on this...
I have heard that the mounts on the F Series diff are a bit wider apart than those on the T Series diff from the RA2*, but there was enough compliance in the trailing arm bushes to "push" the arms out a little and fit... (Obviously, this is not ideal, but I will see how much out it is before giving it a go...)
I will be getting the measuring tape onto it this arvo and check the exact differences...
I do know that at least the spring seats will need to be welded to the F Series diff, as on the MX13 they were on the lower trailing arms, where as on the T Series diff they are on top of the diff housing...
Last edited by twentyEight; 24-07-2007 at 01:30 PM.
I also have an MX13 diff, the mounts aren't even close to the same as my RA23, you must be thinking of the MA47 F series which is "close but not quite". For the MX13 you'll have to cut the control arm brackets and spring seats off your old diff and have them welded onto the new diff.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
MA47! I'd never come across one of them...
Thanks for the info, that's what I had planned to do, just when I heard that it may fit with a little muscling, I got hopeful...
No F series rear axle (bar the one from the RA28 GT sold in Japan), is a direct fit into a RA23. You would be well advised to get a spare '23 rear axle to sacrifice all the mounts (cut them off and weld them on to the F series) and use your other '23 axle as a measuring 'template' to help ensure the brackets and bits are welded onto the right spots.
Cheers.
RA23
1G-GZE
Yeah, that's what will be happening... And you helped me realise that I had the title wrong... I meant RA2* Celica...![]()
Yes it does have one in the RA25 GT...Originally Posted by Draven
And although I know where the shrooms grow, I don't think he'd be happy to get rid of the diff...
I think Chuck (from ACT) may* have put one into Gordo's 1JZ 23. He might be able to inform what is required.
* I know ONE of gordo's 23's had a Mark2 diff with stretched trailing arms... but maybe it was his white one with a 1G, not the one Chuck built.
i put one in my RA40. essentially the same as what your trying to do, just the mounts are spaced a little further apart.
search the old forums and you shall find my thread with all the pics.
Last edited by brett_celicacoupe; 24-07-2007 at 06:35 PM.
hello
Some nice conflicting opinions in this thread for ya Simon!
Perhaps there are different diff's, coming from different cars? who knows![]()
Brett, do you have the link?
Because searching the old forums can be one of the most hair tearing things because you can't show all threads by a user, you can only show all posts... And searching F Series brings up nothing at all...
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...17b4179a603f74
the image links are prob broken now
hello
just (like yesterday) got my F Series done .... your looking at $4-500 to get the mounts cut off a T and welded onto a F.
Only way to do it I see .... ill be playing with handbrake cables on mine this Saturday.
Black Betty >HERE!<
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Unless you are good with a welder I would go to a specialist too, and that is what I paid for mine to get done as well.
RA23
1G-GZE
So i gather you are going to run FWD offset rims on the rear?
Anything else will pretty much put you outside the guards and/or go over the legal track width (IIRC in SA its +20mm over std).
Daily: Celica GT4 ST185, Camry VXV21R
Project: Toyota RA28 '77 Celica (1UZ-FE powered)
Previous: Toyota Corona RT104, Toyota Starlet GT Turbo
Chairman of the Classic Celica Club of South Australia.
I'm still certain that the Mark II diff has been fitted into the rear of an RA23 without the mounts changed (Gordo's old white 1G beasty). The mounts were a bit wider, but there was apparently enough compliance in the trailing arm bushes to fit it.
Can anyone confirm this? Or am I just on acid?
Sounds like you're on the shrooms actually...JK...
It might have been an F Seires from a MA47 Supra as Norbie suggested above...
MWP, I'll have to check with the Vic regs, but I've measured the room I have left within my rear gurads, and I have just enough room to fit it with my Simmons which are 0" offset and are 8" rims... It may be a bees dick out, but that could be fixed with a slight flare of the guards...
Vic regs are:
The maximum allowable wheel track increase is:
* 25mm for a front axle or rear axles with independent suspension,
* 50mm for other rear axle types,
* Zero for front-wheel-drive vehicles with McPherson struts and negative scrub-radius
steering geometry or a diagonally split braking system.
http://www.toyo.com.au/TechInfoPDFs/...egulations.pdf
That makes me happy being that my track will only increase by 45mm...![]()
meh ... thats under owner certified regs.
Engineers can pass what they want if its deemed safe.
Plus the all you do is play with rim widths and offsets to retain track.
Cause remember track is tyre centre to tyre centre .... not hub to hub![]()
Black Betty >HERE!<
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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
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