Hey!
I am helping design and build a new hillclimb car at uni, and we are in need of a diff.
We are using a Yamaha R1 Motorcycle engine, so needless to say the drive output is via a chain.
We thought of using a Quaife diff first, but does anyone know of any viable alternatives off the top of your heads?
Cheers,
Chris
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
RMIT boys uses an MX5 KAAZ i believe, as its the smallest one they made (looked damn small too)
you will of course need to make up a sprocket that bolts where the crown wheel would normally want to go.
look into using a solid axle, has its downsides but will be very light and simple, and if there are any drift courses you will win!
Mmmm, not keen on that. I am looking for bolt-in solutions, and we are not hard pressed for space.Originally Posted by shinybluesteel
The diff also needs to be new out of the box. No used car type stuff.
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
used car type stuff? dunno what you mean. solid axle just means no diff, KAAZ LSDs are available new
Ah sorry, misunderstood you!Originally Posted by shinybluesteel
Not looking at a solid axle at this stage as it will be too hard to service should something go wrong. We can't just slap another chain on there in a few minutes otherwise.
The KAAZ website looks like it only makes diffs for road car applications, and we do not want to venture into modified diffs although, having an easily removable sprocket may be interesting...
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
last one for the night:
a diff from a 1100kg car will handle all the punishment you can dish out from an R1 motor (probably)
look into using a split sprocket, so you can change your final drive ratio easily, without having to remove axles or anything.
with a live axle you can still slip another chain on very easily, you just can't use a linkless chain.
True. The car itself will probably only weigh around 300-400 kg with the driver.Originally Posted by shinybluesteel
That may work... I'll look into that for sure.Originally Posted by shinybluesteel
The plan is to use a linkless drag racing chain. It is a little more maintenance, but well worth the peace of mind when a chain is whizzing around behind you and so close to the fuel tank which will be under the driver's seat and next to the firewall.Originally Posted by shinybluesteel
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
Could you use a solid axle, with a flanged removable piece in the centre to allow chain removal? It wouldn't be that difficult to machine up suitable flanges etc.
Best thing for you to do is have a talk to someone that races the Speedway scene and races Formula 500's as they run motorbike engines and use a chain drive rear.
Cheers Brett.
The solid axle will be a bad idea I think. Given that this is a hillclimbing car, there is certainly going to be tight and technical corners to negotiate. Having a solid axle in this case would be serious disadvantage. Sure, there are going to be some fast sections but nowhere near as many as the tight corners.Originally Posted by mrshin
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
We are having a looksee at a proven-to-win hillclimb car today, so we shall see what setup they use.Originally Posted by crowncustom
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
You can set up your geometry to compensate for the lack of a diff, have you ever seen a supercart on a hillclimb track?Originally Posted by DigitalPho3nix
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
UTS used a rav-4 front lsd diff last year, but only because it was free (sponcered), and they are imported.
I dont think it matters if its a live axle because of racing limitations, but the point of building this is to achieve a well constructed and planned car. IRS defiantly gets you more points. (if this is for what i think this is?)
Originally Posted by skiddz
No, but that would be pretty cool!Originally Posted by Ben Wilson
While a good idea, we already have the suspension and so we can't change it (too much). As this is an experimental car, and the objective is to get it racing ASAP, we have taken the suspension from a Formula Ford as it is a given quantity.
Chris Lane
Design Team Leader & Webmaster
Edith Cowan Racing: Formula SAE team 07/08
http://engineering.ecu.edu.au/ecr
The English Clubman community get into this a fair bit. It would be worth doing a search on
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/index.php.
I found a couple of links there :-
http://www.westgarage.co.uk/services...aindrives.html
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...%20page-4.html
There are plenty more
Cheers ..... Rick Jones
Fraser Clubman
Uni of Newcastle SAE team used a Rav4 Torsen LSD for the last few years, I think it was the rear diff though not the front. Made up our own sprocket and housing, and it was all good. Easily handled the punishment that the CBR600F4i put out, although the axles didn't (thats a whole story of it's own, by the way)Originally Posted by Screamn_Sleeka
AE102 - Charlene, 71.7kw atw, now carves corners. Seated up, FXGT bar lights of fog-ness.
KE55 - Billie the beast, sadly missed
AE82 - Rosie. 70.8kw atw. Has been converted into garage space and money at last
ST162 - Charlie, non-ghey ST162 machine. 3SGE>>4AGE. Now taking up garage space
JZZ30 - Lexi, 1JZGTE>>3SGE. 200rwkw, hunting Skylines and n00bs in SS Commodores
Then go for a spool, simple, light, reliable and consistant. With LSDs you get preload adjustment, heat variation, wear and added weight.Originally Posted by DigitalPho3nix
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
Just weld a cog or gear onto the flange of the diff and have a chain from that to the engine. I have done this on my 450cc trike and works a treat. Need to be very precise when you weld the cog on though.
Our sprocket was CNC cut and bolted on, thus was removable which is very desirable in case you lunch a tooth into the chain and need to replace the sprocket (this DID happen to us, although only on the much much smaller crank sprocket)Originally Posted by julzy_quads
AE102 - Charlene, 71.7kw atw, now carves corners. Seated up, FXGT bar lights of fog-ness.
KE55 - Billie the beast, sadly missed
AE82 - Rosie. 70.8kw atw. Has been converted into garage space and money at last
ST162 - Charlie, non-ghey ST162 machine. 3SGE>>4AGE. Now taking up garage space
JZZ30 - Lexi, 1JZGTE>>3SGE. 200rwkw, hunting Skylines and n00bs in SS Commodores
yeah probably a much better way to do it. especially if your going to be changing the sprockets around for different tracks and the such