the_random_hero's TA22, V8 on the way :)

[the_random_hero]

I've done some reading on this topic, all I've managed to pull up is references to a TT'd drag car over in Western Australia somewhere. I know it wouldn't be the easiest conversion to do (issues with chassis twisting, car would need to be seam welded, etc), but it's something I plan to achieve over the next 5 years or so doing most of the work myself.
Here's the details I've nutted out so far - if there's anything alarmingly wrong, please let me know

*Whole chassis stitch/seam welded.
*Custom 3-point front strut brace
*Possibly a half-cage
*1UZ-FE, planning to keep it roughly stock apart from a few minor bolt ones (exhaust, intake, new ECU, etc)
*W58
*Hilux diff, Supra discs on rear
*Fuel and battery setup in boot, help with weight balancing.
*Big flares on the front and back, nice little duck-tail wing too.

Front suspension I'm not sure, would have to have some big discs (I want this to be as safe as it is quick).
Also, to the best of my knowledge the factory weight of a RA28 is just a tad over 1000kg, is this correct?
Thanks guys.

EDIT: I've found a TA22 for next to nothing. I'm now asking all the same questions, only for that instead of the RA28. Ignore the legalities, I've spoken to an engineer who's prepared to sign it off based on the GT weight.

[mrshin]

Whether you want to go with the seam welding and cage is dependant largely on whether you choose to, and whether you want to try and use it on the track - a stock 1UZ will go well, but won't rapidly twist the car into a corkscrew with street driving. W58 amd Hilux diff should do the job alright. Personally, Id use R33 Skyline brakes front and rear for reasonable stopping power on a modest budget. I'd also look at converting the front steering to power rack+pinion, not only for improved steering, bult you may also have clearance issues with the steering box.

With the engine, if you are planning to keep it pretty much stock, I'd be using a later (VVTi) 1UZ, or a 3UZ, to give you a bit extra grunt. Get some extractors made up, and a decent exhaust, and try to make it sound half decent, too.

[the_random_hero]

Whether you want to go with the seam welding and cage is dependant largely on whether you choose to, and whether you want to try and use it on the track - a stock 1UZ will go well, but won't rapidly twist the car into a corkscrew with street driving. W58 amd Hilux diff should do the job alright. Personally, Id use R33 Skyline brakes front and rear for reasonable stopping power on a modest budget. I'd also look at converting the front steering to power rack+pinion, not only for improved steering, bult you may also have clearance issues with the steering box.

With the engine, if you are planning to keep it pretty much stock, I'd be using a later (VVTi) 1UZ, or a 3UZ, to give you a bit extra grunt. Get some extractors made up, and a decent exhaust, and try to make it sound half decent, too.

I'm an exhaust fabricator, so no issues with the exhaust side of things I'm currently talking to a member on here who is doing this exact conversion, so I think he should be able to offer me a plethora of advice but input is still greatly appreciated.
Also, anybody know who's got a RA28 shell for sale? They are ridiculously rare/overpriced, although I guess the two go hand in hand.

[Lambolica]

I have a shell... but it is ridiculously priced.

R&P is definatly worthwhile.

Cheers
Simon

[the_random_hero]

I finally found what I've been looking for, an incredibly good condition 1974 TA22 Celica. Starts first time, engine has been cammed and worked (from what the previous owner could tell me). Body is incredibly straight for a 35 year old car, only a couple of scratches in the paint. The interior has seen better days, but it's all easy to find and replace so no issues there.
This afternoon I started stripping it out, most of the crap is now gone. Somebody has gone a bit apeshit with missile switches and taped wire going in every which direction, so I'll sort that out tomorrow.

[the_random_hero]

I started working on her today. First up was getting rid of all the crap inside. This is what's left before I opened the boot and after I'd thrown everything ****ty out.

Hello, I can now see some floor under there!

These gauges are fully hektik bro. I hate mechanical gauges, required me to get brass fittings so I could stem the now leaking water and oil galleries.

Yeah, this dash has seen better days.

Oh, are those Paseo rear seats? Looks like somebody has thrown up on them.

And now the strangely coloured engine bay. I have really no idea what colour this car originally was, the outside matches the chassis under the rear seats, but the doors have yellow overspray. To further confuse things, the bay is maroon, blue and black in different area's.


More to come in a few days.

[Grega]

i think your car may have been originally blue methinks....
yellow overspray on doors tells me the doors have prolly been replaced at some stage.

with the 1uz you'll need to do something with that steering box...some creative header work around there may see you by give or take...

[the_random_hero]

i think your car may have been originally blue methinks....
yellow overspray on doors tells me the doors have prolly been replaced at some stage.

with the 1uz you'll need to do something with that steering box...some creative header work around there may see you by give or take...

See, this is what I thought but under the seat is almost the same colour as the body is now. It's quite confusing that they would spray half the interior, but then leave the bay. It also looks like there's black over the blue in some parts, but then there's blue over the black in others.
R&P is a definite, just browsing the thread on it now.

[LeaThaL]

hey mate thats a good lookin beast there, love the paint and wheel combo, makes her look the shit, would be tough as nails with a 1u where in brissie you located?

[Grega]

i noticed
the answer is no

i know of a fellow ex meridian motorsport (not T) who had a TA22 with R&P in it. he used all KE70 gear from what he told me at the time.

but no one has done it. sure lots people talked about it but lots of people hung up on rack length and bump steer, ackerman ect, no ones done it? make a jig and conversion kit and make yourself a fortune

why 1uz?

[the_random_hero]

i noticed
the answer is no

i know of a fellow ex meridian motorsport (not T) who had a TA22 with R&P in it. he used all KE70 gear from what he told me at the time.

but no one has done it. sure lots people talked about it but lots of people hung up on rack length and bump steer, ackerman ect, no ones done it? make a jig and conversion kit and make yourself a fortune

why 1uz?

Cheap, useable power. Just needs a couple of breathing mods and maybe a slight cam to shift the powerband past 4k and it should be a pleasure to drive.

hey mate thats a good lookin beast there, love the paint and wheel combo, makes her look the shit, would be tough as nails with a 1u where in brissie you located?

Yeah, I don't mind the combination either, but it's all going to change The whole car is getting stripped back to a bare shell, all rust cut out, bit of chassis work then a bare metal respray. I'm not planning to finish this in anytime short of a few years, I'm planning on a lot of dollars going into it.

[CrUZida]

Cheap, useable power. Just needs a couple of breathing mods and maybe a slight cam to shift the powerband past 4k and it should be a pleasure to drive.

a) a JZ will be cheaper and make more power. a VVTi 1JZ will make more useable power.
b) the only reason you use a 1UZ is because you either want a V8, or you plan to boost it.
c) the 1uz's powerband is from 3.5k to 5.5k
d) it will need mimimum of 2 cams, and an aftermarket ecu to change that power band (>$$$)

[Grega]

a JZ will need firewall mods in a TA22...

[CrUZida]

Well there goes that idea.

[Grega]

730mm from firewall to front (the brace that goes under the radiator) in my ta22.
interestingly same length as my rb30et (from back of head to front of harmonic balancer)

if you could get it about 100mm back into the firewall (and have an engineer approve it) you'd be right.

[rob]

wasnt this thread about an RA28?

is it even legal to put a 1UZ into a TA22 in qld?

[Sciflyer]

a) a JZ will be cheaper and make more power. a VVTi 1JZ will make more useable power.
b) the only reason you use a 1UZ is because you either want a V8, or you plan to boost it.
c) the 1uz's powerband is from 3.5k to 5.5k
d) it will need mimimum of 2 cams, and an aftermarket ecu to change that power band (>$$$)

e) the UZ is significantly lighter and in a small car will give better balance and therefore handling

[CrUZida]

Isn't it like 30kg ?

[Mos]

Anyone have a reliable weight for a 1/2JZ?
Coz I do for a 1UZ (and a 7M)... and the numbers aren't as nice as everyone seems to think

[the_random_hero]

wasnt this thread about an RA28?

is it even legal to put a 1UZ into a TA22 in qld?

Was, until I got a TA22 and changed it I've talked to a few engineers, one has said he'll sign it off on GT weight provided I completely upgrade the steering, brakes and suspension.
And yes, I want a V8. Trying to fit IC piping and crap is going to be more of a hassle than I think the extra power is worth. With a couple of mods, 200kW@ rears should be fairly achievable with a nice torque curve - any more power than that and I would never get traction.