1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

[Gleno28]

Hey mate, looks great! should be a pretty quick ute! Engine looks in very good nic too, got mine through SSS also.

For those two vacs, i've got the top one to the charcoal canister and the lower one to cruise unit, or could be vac gauge etc. Great build page too mate

Glen.

[ra23celica]

Going back to your vacuum hose questions on the 26th, I have a Gen 2 1GGZE so my set-up is slightly different from yours. The small (4mm) line on top of the throttle body connects to the charcoal canister where I have used a Diahatsu Charade one on a Hilux mounting bracket in the original location on my RA23. The Charade one is a lot smaller, which removed the clearance issue I had with the larger original unit and the supercharger, and still has the one way valve inside it.
The Charade canister originally mounts to a bracket that is welded onto its firewall, on a Hilux this (very similar) bracket is bolted near the wheel arch - I joined the two and replaced the RA23 set-up and I was done.
I don't have that second pipe near the brake vacuum booster line on my engine. The closest thing to that location is the lower ABV line. Sorry I can't help you on this one. Its obviously some kind of vaccuum line used to drive something. Use it as a boost gauge pick-up? :-)
Cheers,
Mitch.

[infotechplus]

Headlight Upgrade

Went to Pick 'n' Payless yesterday specifically to get an in-tank EFI fuel pump, and ended up spending 4 hours there, admittedly chatting for half the time with another Toymodder who was harrassing a Supra for its intake manifold.

I grabbed two headlights from an SX Celica (popup headlights) to upgrade my Hilux sealed beams, which don't really shed too much light on the road at night. Since I'm travelling to Wakefield Park I thought better lighting might be in order.



These headlights drop straight in without any mods. At first I thought I would have to remove the two protruding tabs but this was not the case. They have the advantage of only having to remove the globe when it blows, the replacements will be cheaper, and the rear has a protective rubber boot.

I grabbed two replacement globes while I was there which was good as I dropped one of the headlights as I was heading for the checkout and the globe's filament was damaged.







Another example of the interchangeability of Toyota parts.

Peter

[infotechplus]

Yes, I did eventually get an EFI Fuel Pump. This one's out of a Toyota Crown Royal Saloon. I figured it would flow enough fuel for the 1GGZE. I'm going to remove the rear tray from the Hilux to check fitting of this unit over the next day or so. That'll also give me a chance to paint the rear of the cab and the tray, as well as Chassis Black the frame, diff and axle.







While I was there I also spotted this Lukey Performance Muffler on the ground so I hacked off one end before taking it. I'm thinking I might have a go at building my own exhaust system. That way I don't have to move the Hilux, and I can put into practice the skills from the welding course I did a couple of year's ago at TAFE (before they bumped up the prices of the short courses from $90 to $320 a semester).





I'd like to expand the system piping out to 2.5" from the 2" that's stock on the muffler.



When I buy the pipe should I get it from an exhuast shop and have them bend it there and then or is there a cheaper alternative. I'll also have to hire a MIG? Any help in this regards would be appreciated. Do Kennards do this stuff?

I was thinking about an oil cooler since the sump modification removed about a litre (or more) of capacity. Adding a cooler increases the oil capacity and helps cool the engine oil (naturally ) I'll get a Toyota oil filter adapter from Motorsport Connections at Seven Hills - one that allows for the fitting of an oil temp sender. I haven't worked out where this cooler will go but it's size should allow a not-too-difficult fitting using rubber hoses and clamps.



Cheers

Peter

[Grega]

peter, all the exhaust work i've done thusfar i go to my local exhaust place and they order mandrel bends in for me. then you just cut and shut the things together.

have done a couple now - all good.

[Bullfrog]

Infotech,

When you said in previous post you had to elongate the gearbox mounting plate which way did you do it?. As i didn't plan on removing my gearbox pretty much due to the fact i don't want to with all the transfercase crap on it. I was just Planning to modify the engine mounts to suit. I guess they probably arent set up the same anyways so it probably a silly question.

[infotechplus]

Infotech,

When you said in previous post you had to elongate the gearbox mounting plate which way did you do it?. As i didn't plan on removing my gearbox pretty much due to the fact i don't want to with all the transfercase crap on it. I was just Planning to modify the engine mounts to suit. I guess they probably arent set up the same anyways so it probably a silly question.

Is yours 4WD?

With my 2WD I had to elongate the four holes and the large centre opening on the crossmember mounting plate to allow the gearbox mount to match up. Holes were made about 10mm longer. This is because the 1GGZE is slightly longer than the 22R. I'm using my original 22R gearbox.

If you have 4WD everything may bolt up, especially if you use custom mounts.

Cheers

[infotechplus]

Today I planned to work on the EFI install so I removed the tray from the Hilux and placed it on some hobby horses.





I then removed the fuel tank:



I drained it of remaining fuel and as it had years of built up grime on it I gave it a clean. That allowed me to work on it without getting rubbish inside the tank. As it was it had a fair degree of sediment in the bottom so that was all removed.



The Crown fuel pump would not fit into the tank so that ended that avenue of modification. I like the idea of an external pump, and surge tank but for my purposes I would like to go "in-tank" as there are very few places under the Hilux where I could put all that extra gear without major work.

So its back to Pick 'n' Payless in the New Year to find something smaller, now that I know the diameter of the opening, which is 42mm. In fact both openings in the 22R tank are the same size (the pickup and the fuel gauge unit).

Happy New Year

[infotechplus]

Yesterday was a bit wet out our way but rather than do nothing I decided to spend the day pulling out the dash so that I could complete a number of small jobs.

Some time ago a neighbour (well, a couple of blocks away) was trashing a single cab Hilux. Unfortunately, by the time I saw it most was gone. I did manage to salvage a dash in excellent condition, heater motor, wiper motor, brake master cylinder and some interior plastic.

The intention was to recolour the dash, pull mine and replace. Mine was originally brown but was now grey. I had already recoloured some of the centre console and armrest in black so I wanted to convert everything to black.



I also needed to redo the wiring for the stereo.

Having done this several times before it was relatively easy. Like many Japanese dashes you just have to remember in what order you take the pieces off as they are all interlinked.

The Hilux dash is a two part affair, with a main skeleton and the padded outer or front piece linked to it with small twisty tab. I ended up using a combination of pieces, with the main dash from the salvaged Hilux coupled with my padded section. This was because the padded section from the 2 door wouldn't take the colour - it kept going all milky.

This is the main section:



Having removed everything I cleaned all the air passages, fixed the centre air vent opening mechanism as it never worked due to the connection having jumped off its placeholder, fixed the wiring, and replaced the left hand vent as the one in the 2 door was broken.







I am using Septone Vinyl and Plastic Paint. It is very good but you have to prepare thoroughly by cleaning all the parts to be painted, first with soapy water, drying, and then W&GR. The idea is to put on several light coats, waiting 5 minutes between coats. I did this by lining up all the pieces, and rotating through them, as on an assembly line.

This is the main part installed. All that remains is to put everything back in and connect up the hazard light switch, cig lighter, and clock. Be careful when doing this as it is easy to lose one of the connections, screw everything together and then have to undo it all because something has fallen out of view.



Close up of the passenger side vent:



To get the main dash back in it is better to remove the steering wheel. There's nothing worse than ruining your new dash by scratching it , trying to force it in. Give yourself plenty of room!



Cheers,

[Bullfrog]

And then you have to pull it all out again to wire the engine up . he he

Don't post the wiring stuff i sent you yet i have ammended it again.
And almost finished the full wiring diagram just hope it works ..lol....

[infotechplus]

And then you have to pull it all out again to wire the engine up . he he

Don't post the wiring stuff i sent you yet i have ammended it again.
And almost finished the full wiring diagram just hope it works ..lol....

I have posted it elsewhere but asking for comment so I hope everyone views it as a "work in progress".

Cheers

[Grega]

pete, mate aside from working on this do you have another job champ?
seriously its looking great!
i liked the grey but the black pad and bits has really come up a treat
that vinyl spray gear is very good and you should end up with a lasting finish as your prep is the bit that makes the difference.
anyway rep up for good work and a good work diary!

[infotechplus]

pete, mate aside from working on this do you have another job champ?
seriously its looking great!
i liked the grey but the black pad and bits has really come up a treat
that vinyl spray gear is very good and you should end up with a lasting finish as your prep is the bit that makes the difference.
anyway rep up for good work and a good work diary!

Cheers Grega,

I'm on two weeks holiday at the moment, back to work next Monday. I need to get this conversion finished as my daily driver as I have another car in urgent need of some attention (before it's up for rego)

The grey was good but the black will be much better. Then the dash and centre console will all be the same colour. I'm really impressed with the Septone product:



Here's the blurb from the Septone website:

"Septone Vinyl & Plastic Paint is designed for restoration and/or complete colour change of dull or worn vinyl and plastic surfaces and low pile carpets. May be used on dashboards, convertible tops, trims, and seats in both automotive and marine applications. It is also suitable for use on handbags, golf bags, shoes, furniture, luggage, awnings, blinds, etc. "

Comes in Satin Blue, Satin Black, Buckskin, Gloss Black, Dark Grey, Mid Grey, Satin Red, and Satin White. I've only ever seen the Black, Grey, White and Blue. I've never seen the Buckskin, but I'm intrigued now as to how it might look in another car.

And you are right, preparation is everything for this stuff to work properly. Look at the closeup of the air vent above and you can see that multiple light coats work very well giving a natural sheen. I've used the Satin Black.

Cheers,

Peter

[Gleno28]

Looking good mate! Was just thinking... have you thought of using a 4Runner dash (or SR5 Lux??) which has tacho, oil press volts etc all in one? Sometimes as we know in toyotas, things might just bolt up!

Glen

[infotechplus]

Today I swapped the Crown intank fuel pump at Pick 'n' Payless. Thanks to a tip from a Forum Member (lost the link, sorry ) I got an external Bosch pump, regulator and lift pump from a VL Commodore, as well as the wiring and plugs. I won't need the fuel gauge wiring though.

Having done a search on Toymods and Google generally I haven't been able to find too much hard info regarding the setup. It was suggested to me that I only need the Bosch fuel pump and I could do without a surge tank. That certainly would be easier but I need to do a bit more research on this.

I also went to Motorsport Connections and got everything I needed to fit up an oil cooler, which is now installed in front of the air con on the passenger side.

Toyota sandwich block (Part No. TD1313B 3/4in - 16) Large O-ring $50
Dash 6 Male to 3/8in NPT 90 deg (Part No. 822-06-06) $17 ea (You need two)
Dash 6 Pushlock Straight Hose End (Part No. 401-6) $9.25 ea (You need two)

Plus 2 metres of oil cooler hose from Supercheap Auto $8.95 per metre

I used the small oil cooler I got at Pick 'n' Payless the other day from a Cressida.

I unscrewed the oil filter (Valvoline V022), cut the hose into equal lengths (after test fitting for placement and distance), eased the hose onto the Pushlocks with the help of some hot water, screwed on the hose clamps, fitted the NPT 90 deg onto the sandwich block with some Teflon paste (recommended for tapered fittings), then fitted the Pushlocks.

So at this stage the system was complete at the engine. I then fitted the complete sandwich block, tightened it up with a stubby wrench, and ran the oil hose through the front near the air con lines. I refitted the oil filter.

Then I fitted the oil cooler, and pushed the hose onto the barbed ends, and tightened with hose clamps. Done.

I decided to fill the engine with oil to see how much she would take after the sump mod. I poured in just under 4 Litres but it will take more once the oil pump pushes the oil through the system, and the oil cooler. I figure on at least another litre.

As I was cleaning up I noticed a small amount of oil under the car, and thought I'd perhaps spilt a little. Shite, I looked underneath and the sump had a small pinhole at the edge of the weld. I drained the sump, patched the hole with some metal expoxy, waited an hour and filled it again. I'll check it in the morning but I've placed a tray underneath it just in case. I don't really want to have to remove the sump if at all possible.

I also cleaned up the fuel tank, painted it, and refitted the fuel gauge sender.

Tomorrow I'm planning to tackle the fuel pump install and lines to the engine, and finish off the interior painting and fitting.

Cheers,

[infotechplus]

Looking good mate! Was just thinking... have you thought of using a 4Runner dash (or SR5 Lux??) which has tacho, oil press volts etc all in one? Sometimes as we know in toyotas, things might just bolt up!

Glen

When I got the Lux interior it came from a mid-90s SR5 but the gauge cluster was already gone otherwise I would have grabbed it. I'm looking at putting an aftermarket tacho in it.

Cheers,
Peter

[thechuckster]

peter,

just be carefull with that oil coiler - at a glance it doesn't look like a full-flow unit - if it came from something like a M-series motor, it's not designed to take full-pressure oil (as in it won't flow enough volume of oil). The M-series motors 'bleed off' excess oil (via a pressure relief valve) and send it out to the cooler then dump the cooled oil into the sump.

If you are going to use a sandwich adaptor then a different cooler is required. I think Permacool sell good full-flow coolers.

[infotechplus]

peter,

just be carefull with that oil coiler - at a glance it doesn't look like a full-flow unit - if it came from something like a M-series motor, it's not designed to take full-pressure oil (as in it won't flow enough volume of oil). The M-series motors 'bleed off' excess oil (via a pressure relief valve) and send it out to the cooler then dump the cooled oil into the sump.

If you are going to use a sandwich adaptor then a different cooler is required. I think Permacool sell good full-flow coolers.

Thanks for the heads-up on that Chuckster. I'll see what else I can find to do the job but it'll have to be as small to fit the space available without major fabrication. I know when I fitted an oil cooler to the race car I used a much larger unit from a Nissan GTS-T/GT-R and it works beautifully. Maybe I'll get another one of those.

I'll check the Permacool range too.

Peter

[infotechplus]

This is the Bosch fuel system that I pulled from a VL Commodore. I checked the main pump with a small 12v battery and it seemed to be working OK. I also got all the mounting hardware in case I needed it but I think I will make up a mounting plate and get a U-bracket from the hardware store for the main pump. Fuel hose I'll grab from Supercheap Auto.



Here is a good article on Bosch fuel pumps:

http://www.autohausaz.com/html/fuelpumps.html

This is the fuel tank all clean and painted. I refitted the mechanical gauge sender but I'm thinking I might go back to Pick 'n' Payless and get the complete hardware for the lift pump, and see if it is feasible to make up an adapter plate for the 22R tank. That way I can run the electrics for the lift pump and fuel gauge from it. Otherwise I have to modify the existing plate and that poses some problems.



A couple of photos of the oil cooler setup. The sandwich block on the engine with it's Speedflow fittings, and the unit mounted (temporarily with cable ties) in front of the AC radiator.





Any ideas on where else I could mount an oil cooler inconspicuously would be appreciated.

And ... the sump is stil leaking so that's a major setback I'll also have to deal with.

Cheers,

Peter

[Admiral coFF33]

this thread is brilliant, cant believe ive missed it in my hunts !!!

very nice work infotechplus

Ive always personally wanted a Turbo/SC hilux....
Great info on this thread

keep up the good work !