Hi,
It's not an 18R-G, but you make do with what you can.![]()
Nice work, sunshine. Keeps us updated, and some +rep coming your way to help your already significantly high Repost ratio.
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
Toymods Car Club Treasurer, Historic Plate Registrar & Forums Admin
Toymods BDSM, Gorean, Fetish, Pelvic Floor Muscle afficiando and alternate lifestyle guru
that will sound amazing
Project Soarer II - Sold
YN65 Hilux - 35's, 5" Lift, 308
"I'm the man who has the ball. I'm the man who can throw it faster than f**k. So that is why i am better than everyone in the world. Kiss my ass and suck my dick... everyone."
Progress report??
ooohh, that's hot as. Looking forward to updates! *subscribed*
I'm actually being lazy with picking, resizing and uploading photos. (Including photos of the firewall clearance).
Non-graphical update follows. Edit: Photos filtering in.
Engine has lost its headers. The exhaust flange is the same as non-VVTi models (the cast manifold was removed to trial fit the non-vvti celsior stainless tubular headers, which fit the heads, but don't fit the car any better, so custom headers will have to happen). [Incidently, the stainless tubular header is absolutely crap - the casting is much much better. Primary size is 37mm on the cast vs 34mm on the tubular].
Removal of headers allowed reward tilt, which placed engine closer to firewall.
5 speed auto was installed on engine and assembly trial fitted (Thanks Simon!). Gearbox crossmember partially bolts up (1 set of holes lines up).
Engine, with current sump, sits less than 20mm away from firewall brace on the right bank (the left bank, being offset forward, clears by more).
In the current engine position, JZA80 W58 with the NZ bellhousing will place the shifter exactly on the centreline of the auto shifter, if required.
Pressed steel bowl of sump is being modified to remove the "hump" to allow for the almost straight crossmember - donor vehicle, like many earlier vehicles, have concave crossmembers. The removal of said hump will give sump clearance and allow some rearward engine movement. (Engine movement, in this context, refers to how much the engine can be moved before its position becomes determined and fixed with mounts - it does NOT refer to engine movement during normal operation).
Rearward engine placement is restricted by the corners of the heads approaching a brace running across the firewall. Massaging, or modification of said brace would allow non trivial rearward engine movement, however, discussions with engineer resulted in the notion that any chassis modification are a really really bad idea given the stringest post 95 frontal crash requirements - any modifications need to look like they could've come out of the factory (and they wouldn't in this case). Modifications to this brace would compromise chassis rigidity as it ties the chassis rails a lot more than a conventional firewall does. For the sake of 30mm these modifications are no longer being considered. In addition the oil pickup would get extremely close to crossmember without raising the whole assembly.
Currently the centre of mass of the 1UZ is estimated to be around 25mm further forward but substantially lower than the centre of mass of the 1G. The engine is likely to be moved another 10mm rearward without firewall modifications, improving the weight distribution marginally.
Correct engine isolators still need to be sourced (1UZ mounting plane is horizontal, 1G and crossmember are angled).
A potential suitable isolator has been located (mounting surfaces are angled by the correct amount) however mounting height needs to be determined prior to purchase.
Tailshaft needs modification regardless of transmission choice. W58 needs extending by about 100mm, A350 needs donut retrofit and extension.
Next steps are replacing the passenger side window of girlfriend's car that got graciously smashed by a council whipper snipper, and wiring up a VVTi 1JZ in yet another cressida (ain't it smashing that you can't get away from other peoples' cars even when your daily is off the road)... A bunch of christmas parties is also getting in the way
Hopefully I'll find some more excuses before the next installment
Mos.
Last edited by Mos; 17-12-2006 at 01:16 AM. Reason: Added photos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Update: Just wasted an hour cleaning up a thread instead of mocking up engine mounts.
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Impressive. Got any photos?Originally Posted by Mos
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Sure do. Also added photos to previous update.Originally Posted by Norbie
Quick update.
Attempt using 1UZ mounts with UZZ30 isolators (single stud top and bottom, 15 degree angle). The previously mentioned isolator with 2 lower studs could not be used because it did not drop into the existing crossmember holes - this mount, being single lower stud, dropped straight into the outer crossmember hole. The only problem was the isolators are not tall enough, so needed a 16mm spacer (12mm was tried) to give sufficient clearance around the sump, resulting in only 3mm of thread available on the lower stud.
Mock up; using 1G isolators (parallel mounting surfaces, 1 stud top, 2 stud bottom, approximately 80mm tall unloaded). Angle of block mounting surface is 45 degrees (surprise surprise) and crossmember mounting angle is 15 degree, hence mount has provides for the 30 degrees included angle. This form of mount allows any desired longitudonal engine position (engine is sitting approximately 20 mm further rearward in the below photo compared to the above photo). Another benefit is additional space for exhaust headers.
All that's required now is some more long wood screws and some silver paint.
You may be able to notice flex in the bottom piece of wood - that's due to washers to lift the engine up by 6mm (12mm was too much). Next step is to cut out the rest of the steel equivalents (really need that soundproof garage...).
The current position gives ample clearance around the modified sump and sufficient clearance on the back of the head.
Sleep is good. Excuse for tomorrow is "wedding"
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Good work Mos, some solid progress there. The engine mounts look great, should pass engineering no worries.![]()
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
i might be able to do something about the key security
you will have to buy a genuine toyota key transponder
not sure how much they cost
i have someone who can supply 2 new keys recoded to suit the ecu
so if u want to send us the ecu i will get all the info needed on it then send it to them and
see if they can do it
no use sending it to them if they cant
but at end of the day it will cost you i think anywhere 400 to 500 to do this plus price of transponder
Mos, when you are ready for exhaust manifolds to be made - grab yourself a set of the soarer headers from Rush Imports but get Neil to supply the drivers side in unwelded/kit form. The passenger side should fit with minimal modification and will save you cash and fabrication time. http://www.reanimotion.com/toymods/images/DSCN0695.JPG
Steve
1992 MX83 Cressida powered by 1UZ-FE - A little bit Toyota, a little bit An-i-mal![]()
1981 Porsche 928S "Herr Vader"
The only problem with the Rush headers is that it groups the wrong pistons on the passengers side.
You might never notice the difference in power, so dunno if you'll care.
But for the $$'s you can't go wrong.
Very nice work Mos. Modifying a IS200 is one of them dreams of mine and seeing you drop a 1UZ into yours is just awsome to watch. Keep up the excellent work.
MA61 Part Numbers, Upgrades and General Infomation <--- Clicky Clicky
Love the wooden engine mounts. To make mine I sat the engine on timber packers to the right position than made the mounts from cardboard & masking tape. They were a but flexible so the wood version would be better.
Keep up the good work - can't wait for you to get the wiring. Then you can solve a few niggles that I still have with mine.
Graham D
Lexus RX350 (no mods yet !!!)
Lexus IS200 / 2.5GT-T (1JZGTE VVTi + Getrag 6 Speed)
Lexus IS200 (wife's car and no mods allowed !!!)
Suzuki GSX750-F
Hence the silver paintOriginally Posted by Norbie
Yeah, Rod suggested exactly your method, but the advantage of wood is that it will support the weight of the engine and you get to see exactly where everything will sit. I used the UZZ30 isolators with the original 1UZ alloy mounts and various spacers as a point of reference. Without spacers the sump was sitting on the crossmember. 12mm and 16mm spacers were tried (thickness of MDF I had lying around) and the 16mm yeilded better clearances all around.Originally Posted by grahamd
Measuring the alloy mount, the UZZ30 isolator and crossmember gave the baseline and points of reference from which to work. Ended up drawing everything up using my old A3 drawing board from back in year 7 (16 odd years ago?). All the MDF bits were cut to dimensions straight from the drawing (using a compass for transferring dimensions - Dave from SAS had a good laugh at the concept). It ended up being out by 6mm in height - hence the 6mms of washers - haven't worked out the source of the error but the design for the steel version takes that into account (and the fact that the steel is 6mm compared to the 12mm MDF).
(The 2JZ mounts in the cressida were done the same way - wooden templates before any steel was ever touched - fabrication of the steel happened 30km away from the car and assembled without modification).
Managed to cut out the "trapezoids" this morning (before the wedding). Both flange plates were cut out the day before. (I'm actually finding it's easier to cut steel with precision than wood... the steel cuts are accurate to under 0.5mm using a grinder with a 1.0mm cutting disc).
The steel still needs to be cleaned up and tacked together for a final trial fit before welding. Hopefully that will happen Monday night (somewhere around the monthly club meeting).
The rectangle to the right of the two trapezoids is the transmission crossmember "relocator" (in case anyone is wondering - currently it's MDF); it will be placed between the rubber mount and the extension housing to extend the rubber mount by 20mm. The alloy mount has two positions depending on how it ends up lining up.
What niggles do you have?Originally Posted by grahamd
Based on the wiring diagrams installing the LS400 ECU into the IS200 should not pose any problems (other than immobiliser) provided the MPX communicates. Aftermarket ECU install, if required, will very much be a suck it and see operation (as will be the 5 speed auto control...).
Thanks heaps for looking into this! I've been a slack ass over the last few weeksOriginally Posted by sideshow
I'll give you a ring regarding the details.
By key transponder do you mean the device on the steering column that interrogates the keys? If so, the IS200 has one, and the original IS200 keys are transponder types.
Thanks for the suggestion but there's a plan in place alreadyOriginally Posted by stevevp
Incorrect phasing seems to be a common theme on a lot of headers for these enginesOriginally Posted by CrUZida
The yellow Sportcross had stainless headers with incorrect grouping on the left side.
Anyone know what size the rush tubing is? Peewee, what sizes did you use?
Given the port diameters on the VVTi 1UZ are 36mm, we'll be using 1"5/8 primaries (38ish ID) going to 2" secondaries and 2.5" outers (based on Liverpool Exhaust's experience with Soarers).
There isn't as much space in the IS as there is in the MZ10, so will be interesting to see how "equal" the lengths will end up.
Given the unequal delays between firing events within groupings, has anyone put thought into fabricating unequal length primaries? (Or am I thinking about this completely incorrectly?)
Thank you. Although to be honest it's hard not to think about just putting the 1G back in, so encouragements like yours do help with motivationOriginally Posted by Negative Boost
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
hey mos - the engine manual finally arrived last week
ps - im jealous that youre making progress![]()
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tech moderator
Project Oskar JZA80 VVTi 1UZ - Oran Park GP - 1.23.06, Lotus 2-Eleven Nürburgring Nordschleife - 8.58.5
v-eight.com
Unsure about rush, but I'm pretty sure mine are 1.5" primaries, unsure of secondaries, and 2.5" finals.Originally Posted by Mos
The rush headers I have are 40mm OD primaries, which would be very close to your 1-5/8" tubing
Steve
1992 MX83 Cressida powered by 1UZ-FE - A little bit Toyota, a little bit An-i-mal![]()
1981 Porsche 928S "Herr Vader"
If you put the 'G' back in now Mos i'll come down and get the UZ to fit in a much tighter space than you ever thought possible
The exhaust fitting will be trying but with all the practise of 'patience' you have from wiring projs you should be right.
For incentive, we can swap UZ drives the next wakefield day GT is organising for March? You can choose whether you want to lap with 320rwkw or 400+![]()
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I have the larger Rush ones on my Soarer and they are 1 3/4 primaries (~45mm)Originally Posted by stevevp