4agze kings pls - rebuild recommendations and suggested upgrades!

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Hi Guys, alas it looks like Ive spun a big end bearing on cylinder 4 of my ae101 4agze with less than 75000kms on the clock. Yes I think some of you that offered advice previously were actually right about my engine goddamnit (evosti)

There is no noticable damage to the bore and suspect not much to the crank where the bearing sits. My head is being fully reconditioned thru a friend right now. I am pulling the block out next week for a rebuild. This shit is the next step for me and have never done it before, im assuming it entails:

-- problem --
I ran the engine at 15psi for a while with just top mount intercooler until I fried my first SC12. I hit the limiter quite often, but only for short periods though (like cornering or holding it on the limiter in 2nd for 100m or so down the road in the wet etc)
Could this have caused bearing failure?
The car was also on stands for 6 weeks prior to the engine failing. Possibly the bearing dried out during this time and was weakened.

-- 4agze rebuild --
new piston rings
new crank & big end bearings
rehoned bores
rehoned rod and crank where necessary

-- current setup --
running std SC12 abv mod @ 10psi
600x200x76 FMIC

-- desired setup --
SC12 @ 15psi (ea pulley mod preped and ready)
quite a bit of limiter action

-- the question --
What are the invaluable things (within $$ reason) I could change at this low level stage to strengthen the engine? Are aftermarket bearings available/worth while? Stronger metal head gasket? After market conrods/crank shaft or work done to strengthen existing rods/crank possible? Im assuming current 3rd gen ze ceramic pistons are worth keeping.

All your experiences and comments will be well received. Especially ideas on pricing and what to expect to pay!


Thanks Guys
Daniel
Perth

[YLD-16L]

What was the cause of your spun bearing? Low oil pressure, fubared oil pump, blocked oil gallery?????

I would determine the cause of the failure first and foremost.

A hone and new rings is not a good option. New oversized pistons/rings and a rebore to suit is the only way to go.

Im assuming current 3rd gen ze ceramic pistons are worth keeping.

New oversized ones from Toyota are only about $400

I could change at this low level stage to strengthen the engine? Are aftermarket bearings available/worth while? Stronger metal head gasket? After market conrods/crank shaft or work done to strengthen existing rods/crank possible?

If it's just SC and no plans for big boost (22psi or more) turbo then just rebuild it to OEM specs, it's more than adequate.

[Vios-GT_07]

a thicker metal head gasket.. ? for that bit of compression ratio which allows u to run higher boost safely..

probably right find out what caused the spun big end bearing, and it sounds like u're just after a freshen up perhaps? rings, etc.. get it running good again.. suggest you balance ur crank while u're there, so if u want to get big mods under way, u'll have done some of it..

ACL is a pretty good brand to go for, but it's just a preference

[Ben Wilson]

Mine had a lot more kms than that and the bores were well within spec, quick hone and all was good.

Examine the big end of the rod closely for heat damage as well...

[YLD-16L]

Mine had a lot more kms than that......

How many K's has your 4A done (or did) before a rebuild Ben?

Bayka, it sounds like you might need to let people know what your intentions are for this engine and what you may want from it in the future if you want specific advice on what is the best path to take

Plus there are HEAPS of threads and info on here about boosted 4A build ups

[EVOSTi]

i personally wouldnt bother with oversized pistons, id just reuse them and hone the block. that is ofcourse after you have measured the bore and found it to be within spec.

budget atleast $1k for a basic rebuild. im currently rebuilding a friends (sprinter saurus') 4age and the costs so far are:
$600 for head fully serviced by duncan foster
ACL VRS kit $190
all big end bearings, mains, rings, timing belt, water pump and head bolts around $300

so thats over $1K for a basic rebuild. but when i rebuilt another friends (chrizers) 4agte which had a big end knock, we found it had a cracked crank, so we needed another crank and to close and hone the rods. this is more money!
if you have spun a bearing, there is a good chance you have done damage to the crank that is beyond the help of wet'n dry, you may need for the crank to be linished.

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Thanks guys, iv edited the main post at the top to include some more details. I appreciate that there is more info out there and will look into it asap.

Any further suggestions in this post are still highly regarded. I suppose what i really want to know is what are the likely things in 4agze's to go? (ie bearing, rods etc) Knowing this i can make the changes where $$ allows.

Cheers
Daniel

[EVOSTi]

at a minimum i would do big ends and rings plus the VRS kit obviously. you may not need to do the mains (even tho i would while i had it apart) or the timing belt and water pump.

[NVD05X]

190 is a good price for the ACL VRS kit... inspect the kit and make sure its complete before you commence assembly because sometimes they can leave some parts out.

having just completed a rebuild ( thanks IRA11Y) we were unfortunate enough to be one cam seal short..

[EVOSTi]

which reminds me you need to buy a rear main seal and front crank seal as you only get the cam seals in the VRS.

[benjamin]

190 is a good price for the ACL VRS kit... inspect the kit and make sure its complete before you commence assembly because sometimes they can leave some parts out.

having just completed a rebuild ( thanks IRA11Y) we were unfortunate enough to be one cam seal short..

Cam seals are $8 each at repco. Just incase you screw them up putting them in... (which I obviously did)

I gave my bottom end to the engine builder to check the piston to bore clearance and got him to order the correct sized bearings, rings etc before I took it all home to rebuild.

[kingmick]

my advice! do it properly and do it once
if your short on money you might get away with bearing if you didnt drive it to much after it happened. get the crank out and get a machinist to have a look at it.
you can do it the bodgie way like a lot of people do or you can do it the proper way.
dosnt cost much more to do things properly and you dont take the chance of costing yourself a motor.

[slide86]

here read this,
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3854

i have done the exact thing that you are going to do.....

i did a fair bit:
- full rebuild
- large pulley
- full balance
- front mount
- aftermarket ecu
- HKS headgasket (metal)

i reakon i would have spent at least 5 grand on doing this, but liek kingmick said. do it once, do it right

also driving 100m down the road on the limiter (in any conditions) is stupid

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Its friggin fun though
Ive never laughed so hard in my life while doing it. The performance difference with a large front mount intercooler vs std top mount on a ZE is significant (seat of pants meter)

Thanks heaps guys. Could someone pls clarify the ACL VRS kit and what exactly it is?? Im assuming its like a rebuild kit with all the little seals and things.

[old_mr2]

Can you please provide some info on your Falcon Pulley mod?

(ea pulley mod preped and ready)