bolting bits back together AKA engine rebuild questions

[M.J.H]

hello everyone,
well as some may know been rebuilding my 1GGTE
and anyways, i get it back from engine shop on...early this week and before i bolt all those bits back together i have a multitude of questions!
now, dad has done some rebuilds in his time..but i wanna double check his theories as he is a bit old and dated these days (god bless him tho )

now, hes said...wash of the coating on the bearings before you put them in...im down with that

and also, the next thing is he has this icky tube of thick black shit he calls graphite paste, and says bearings etc should be coated with that and then it gets flushed out once oil pressure buillds....is this true? does andrew need to use the icky black stuff?

hmm, that should do for now...ill ask more as i get the first questions answered...i have much repping power, so give me your best!

cheers guys, keen to hear what everyone has to say about anything i may need to know/do in the bolt it back together process...ta guys, andrew

Just what the others have said re oil the rings and bearings etc.
Another thing to do is get a clean rag or three and wipe the bores with them before insatalling the pistons etc. Could be a chance they didn't do this at the shop and you don't want any grit in there from the honing etc.

Another thing is when you install the pistons and the bores etc are nice and lubed with oil and you have tensioned up the big ends etc, Turn the engine over by hand a couple of times. Do this for each set you fit, Eg Fit 1 and 6 then wind over a couple of times then do 2 and 5 etc. But if you fill the oil pump with vas then DON"T turn the motor over after it is fitted or it will not work as well.

As for the cams i never used the moly stuff before just drowned them in oil before fitting the tappit cover which was usally the last thing before firing it up, Has always worked for me.

Sorry if I just repeated what others said but it is late, Good luck and happy motoring when it's all going again.

[kingmick]

hello everyone,
well as some may know been rebuilding my 1GGTE
and anyways, i get it back from engine shop on...early this week and before i bolt all those bits back together i have a multitude of questions!
now, dad has done some rebuilds in his time..but i wanna double check his theories as he is a bit old and dated these days (god bless him tho )

now, hes said...wash of the coating on the bearings before you put them in...im down with that

and also, the next thing is he has this icky tube of thick black shit he calls graphite paste, and says bearings etc should be coated with that and then it gets flushed out once oil pressure buillds....is this true? does andrew need to use the icky black stuff?

hmm, that should do for now...ill ask more as i get the first questions answered...i have much repping power, so give me your best!

cheers guys, keen to hear what everyone has to say about anything i may need to know/do in the bolt it back together process...ta guys, andrew

you use soft toilet paper to buff the bearings!
use assemblie lube on everything, not oil or anything else! assemblie lude sitcks better and if the motor sits for a week or more before it goes in {as in most cases} you need to have a coating which the oil will not do.

[kingmick]

when you get the block back you blow it out with air and clean out the oil gallerys with rifle cleaning brush, then wash it in the hottest water you can get then blow it out with air again and lube the block.

[love ke70]

You'll also find you put the bottom end together twice. You need to check the bearing clearances with plastiguage before final assembly.

Luke

could you explain this further please...im not quite understanding why i have to check bearing clearances if my crank has just been ground to match the bearings i supplied..

SLIDE - thats my engine haha! i was just double checking that was the oil pump, coz id rather look like a newb first time rebuilding 17 year old then make a mess of this rather costly rebuild...oh wait, i am a first time rebuilding newb 17 year old...owell

Another thing is when you install the pistons and the bores etc are nice and lubed with oil and you have tensioned up the big ends etc, Turn the engine over by hand a couple of times. Do this for each set you fit, Eg Fit 1 and 6 then wind over a couple of times then do 2 and 5 etc. But if you fill the oil pump with vas then DON"T turn the motor over after it is fitted or it will not work as well.

why do you turn it over? just to make sure she runs nice and smooth?
i could fit pistons and everything then add front cover, so i should be able to do it...

thanks mick! ive been lovin u far too much lately so cant rep you again, but ill make it up to ya
so ya say to assembly lube it all...sounds like dad may be right after all! sounds right that that will stick better then the oil...and yeah it wont all be done in a day unfortunately

why do you wash it with hot hot HOT water?

thanks again to everyone!!!

[roadsailing]

hot hot water (boiling preferably) is so that it evaporates off straight away and doesn;t pool, which leads to rust.

get it clean enough to eat off

[kingmick]

hot hot water (boiling preferably) is so that it evaporates off straight away and doesn;t pool, which leads to rust.

get it clean enough to eat off

exactly mate!

you always check with plastiguage when you get it back! even top machining shops have made mistakes or you or they orderd the wrong bearings etc!

dont forget to get the crank a big wack on the end with bearing caps on but not tight so you know the crank has seated properly

[Lukey-KE20]

exactly mate!

you always check with plastiguage when you get it back! even top machining shops have made mistakes or you or they orderd the wrong bearings etc!

dont forget to get the crank a big wack on the end with bearing caps on but not tight so you know the crank has seated properly

That's true. You really should check both the machinist's work and that you actually have the bearings that you asked for.

The reason you spin the crank between installing each rod/bearing is to check if the crank is going to bind. If you can't spin after installing a rod, you know which bearing is the problem.

Cheers
Luke

[slide86]

also when cleaning parts dont use degreaser, it leaves residue behind.

use carby clean, it dries and doesnt leave any residue and cleans stuff real good.

im talking bout cleaning internal engine parts and the like.

[merc-blue]

yeah check EVERYTHING with plastiguage, not just main bearings i do rod bearings aswell also make sure your ring gaps and such are correct.
also but a tiny bit of oil on any bolts or studs (i mean a super fine coating) just so they dont bind metal to metal when you torque them up casue u can get bad torque readings,
also check all your bearing and rod clearances at your full torque settings

[love ke70]

ok, whats a plastigauge?
im guessing its different to feeler gauges?

[merc-blue]

deffently, its like plasticine and you put it in between the bearing and crank (when doing main bearings) then tighten them up, then carefuly take them back of fthen measure the thickness which gives you the bearing clearance
you can do one bearing at a time or the whole crank

[love ke70]

and where would i find this plastigauge?

[merc-blue]

your engine machinst should be able to hook you up otherwise ACL make the stuff so bursons or similar

[M.J.H]

why do you turn it over? just to make sure she runs nice and smooth?
i could fit pistons and everything then add front cover, so i should be able to do it...

thanks again to everyone!!!

basically yes.

Is no good getting it all together then finding that something has gone wrong so check and turn as you go.
Also lets you check that the rings have gone in the right spot and not slipped sideways a little when being compressed. Had that happen once and had to redo that one.