acrylic paint job help?

[1974_TA22]

hello people,

Need some help

looking to spray my 74 TA22

when it comes to quality of the spray I’m really not too fussed, as long as it looks ok…
Im just real keen on getting it on the road (driving old hilux twin cab atm)

Ill be going to go acrylic, seeing im doing it myself at home

But can someone help answer a few quick nooby questions?

1) cant do acrylic over enamel right?
2) if so how do i find out what mine is atm? (has been resprayed b4)
3) if enamel what do i do?
4) how many coats of what do i do to get the best result?

Cheers

[rollin_stock]

1.Nope cant do acrylic over enamel.

2.Im not a painter but im sure acrylic should come off when wiped with thinners. My grandpa touched up his car with paint he actually stole from the underside of his bootlid by thinning it down and letting it run into a jar (yes he's a tightarse)

3. Scream, then sand sand sand!!

4. Are you planning on using a clear as well? (would recomend for acrylic)
On my coupe when i painted it bought 4litres of colour and 1.5 clear.
I managed 6 coats colour and 3 clear coats and came out a gem!

Others will probably give you more sound advice though!

Go for it!

[1974_TA22]

Well i got some thinners out just now and got paint off and un-sanded bit of my car with a bit of rubbing... so its acrylic??? this right???

[river]

Hi,

Generally, if the car was resprayed in the last 10-15 years it would be 2PAC, otherwise it would be acrylic.

However, this is a generalisation as there are cars that have been resprayed recently in acrylic.

seeyuzz
river

[Pube]

I had a 95 commodore and it was sprayed in acrylic from factory so be careful of that!

[bassy]

ok, technically it could be resprayed in anything! acrylic laquer, 2 pack, emanel, enamel with a 2 pack additive are the most likely ones. As rollin stock says if it comes off easily with thinners it is either enamel, or acrylic laquer.

I would not recommend painting over enamel, and depending on who sprayed it before it can still be touch and go with acrylic, as different brands can react together. For a good job i would recommend sanding it back with 120 grit paper then give it 4-5 coats of acrylic primer. Sand that back with at least 320, depending on weather the colour is solid or metallic. try 600 or 800 wet rubbed for a decent finish.

If you choose a metalic colour then you will need a clear. 5-6 coats or colour then 2-3 of clear should be more than enough. If you are using a solid colour, white for eg. then you wont need clear. you can however use it, only to get a shine, but you can do that anyway with a good application. 6-7 coats for a solid colour. These coat systems are for buffing. If you dont buff the car, you wont need as many coats.

remember lighter colours show less dents, and metalics are really fussy with scratches you leave behind. matt black however covers all! lol

good luck, bassy

[Major Clod]

Acrylic paint should come off with acrylic thinners... if you are still unsure, just buy a small sample tin or can and spray some on a part that is going to be sanded anyway. If it works fine, there you go... if it reacts and bubbles, cracks etc.... then you need another type of paint. If it's original TA22 paint Acryllic should be fine.

The ONLY thing you're going to get with Acrylic paint is a bit of orange peel in the finish. You can't really get around this no matter what your gun settings are, it'll always be there to some degree. You can either be happy with how it turns out, or do what i did and wet sand the entire car to a perfectly smooth finish, then compound and polish. I have found 3M 2000 grit hook-it sanding discs on a random orbital air sander to be an EXCELLENT alternative to wetsanding the clear coat by hand. Just make sure you have a decent amount of clear on there, otherwise you'll go straight through to the colour and screw your finish.

If you look at brand new cars or resprayed cars (2PAC), you'll notice they still have a bumpy orange peel effect in some light. Generally this isn't too noticeable and more often than not the surface is left the way it is. This is why 2PAC is considered "gloss off the gun." Only picky bitches (like myself) will pick it up and have a whinge!

Good luck, and hopefully your TA22 doesn't sit in the shed for 2.5 years like my RA23!!

[1974_TA22]

Thank you very much everyone !!!!

All this info has been very helpful and is much appreciated !

rep for you all

[Expeditious]

This is a link to the old forums about spray painting... pedro2 knows his stuff
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_746352

["Z" UTE]

Your only sure way of knowing whether the paint is going to stick, and not fry, is to do a test patch. I recommend you sand a guard/door etc with 600 wet and dry, flow a coat of primer onto it. If no bubbling, proceed to sand the rest of the car with 600/800. then prime it up. Knock it back with 800, and give it the required coats of colour/ colour and clear.

If the paint "Fries", you can use an isolator. This is a neutral product, which forms a barrier between your original paint, and your primer. Isolater is strangely enough thinned with Metho. Can has to be mixed very very well, and double strain the mix before putting it into your gun. A light coat, which is very translucent, is all that will be required.

cheers Chuck.

[TA22 GT]

Check out my site
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/paint.htm

I wrote a section on painting acrylic. I painted my TA22 GT and Traceys old Celica myself. I went back to metal on my car and just sanded Traceys and resprayed over old paint.

See the results for yourself.

cheers,
Simon
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/celica.htm

[poida]

Some great advice there. I am currently going through this oh so painful process myself

Here are a few of the traps home painter like myself has encountered and some advice from my experience:

Please make sure you use compatible paints, the same brand and paint system if possible as I just recently painted the underside of my panels with some 2pack primer, very nice to work with btw, more fill, easy to sand and it tends to not react with other paints from my personal experience, it cost me $95 for 4L – enough for my car.

I had a day off this Wednesday and plied some shiny 2-pak dark blue color that cost around $150 for 4L’s. It dries shiny enough for me and I wouldn’t bother with the clear, also because I am planning to do some off road amateur rallies and motorkanas so it will be easier to repair when one day I come unstuck

Sadly something went wrong and even though I followed all of the instructions in mixing the paints with hardeners and thinners etc the paint has poor adhesion to the primed areas. I also painted a portion of the shed door as a test, and the adhesion is great there so I can only conclude the color is not compatible to the primer. The paint supplier is also dumfounded, but in good will he gave me some other paint for free that my mate has already used and I know the result was more than satisfactory. I am confused because I followed all of the steps very carefully but oh well crud happens.
.
I’m lucky that it was only the underside of my doors, boot and bonnet, and the doors. I have just come inside after sanding the doors back to the primer. I struggle to type due to thrashed out hands… The underside of the bonnet and boot are ok actually and there is no way I’m losing any more skin.

Assuming your using a pretty cheap compressor <$200, make sure to buy some sort of moisture trap that traps moisture prior to the air entering the gun. You can buy these disposable ones for $7.

Make sure to empty the compressor of any moisture, and oil, the cheaper ones pass oil through their rings and the moisture trap can reduce this actually reaching the gun. You’ll know if it has with what they call fish eyes - greasy spots that do not get covered by the color.

After applying the wax and grease remover, make sure to wait for it to dry completely, ie 15 or so mins. Don’t soak the panels or poor adhesion may occur.

TEST TEST TEST on a small area prior to painting the whole car, this may waste a day even while you wait for it to dry but its so worth it. I wish I did that J Sanding panels back that were fine makes me want to go postal!

Try to paint on warmer days and get used to sore man hands. Well I hope you can avoid some of my experiences. I also can wait to get my ta22 on the road, its been under cover for 4 years…


Cheers, Pete

[1974_TA22]

cheers poida, TA22 GT, Thanks all!
advice noted...

[TA22 GT]

the most important tip is DON'T use 2 Pak paint at home......

Unless you want a short life...Its very nasty stuff, your option should be either pay for a prof to do 2 pak at home only use acrylic.

Cheers,
Simon

[poida]

Yeah another thing to mention, if you are panintg the panels in your own home, find the paint that is least toxic to yourself. Most 2paks containt isocyanate which is very bad for you.

The paints i used were isocyanate free but always wear a resparator and approapriate clothing.