If anyone still cares there's a pretty decent explanation of how to do this here:
http://downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3167
Its about a 1/4 down the page.
Chris, is it possible that excess localised heat of welding near the bearings has fubared them? The first diff I had locked was tight to turn by hand after welding (tighter than just the weight/friction of turning the whole drivetrain), and within 5 minutes of driving had a bearing whine that was bad enough that you couldn't talk to the passenger. I had preheated the gears on that diff with an oxy to ensure good weld penetration, but it must have been too much. Subsequent diff bearings on the next couple of lockers I made were fine, having just been quickly zapped in the right places with the mig welder.
Have you driven with yours yet?
Cheers
Phil
If anyone still cares there's a pretty decent explanation of how to do this here:
http://downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3167
Its about a 1/4 down the page.
i have heard of guys closing the hole in the centre and pouring molten lead into the centre and then letting it set
not sure of how it would go but in theory it would work
Ill be in for the welded diff group buy.. PM sent...
TWO WAYS I WELD DIFFS
NO.1all me and my bro do is ether weld the spider gears to each other and the housing or make up a mini spool using two of the spider gears, the pin and a peace of pipe.
first take out the two gears that the pin runs through so ya only have the one that go onto the axle, get a peace of pip, thinker the better, but remember you need to get it inside the housing, so what ever will fit.
grind down the out side of the spider gears so the pipe can fit onto it, then some diff you will be able to weld both the gears to the pipe and then fit it into the housing, but for the ones that you caan you cut the pip down the centre so you can slide in half,weld it and the slide in the other half and weld it up all as one pipe agian, but just get the pipe into the housing with the axle gear in the housing how ever you can and weld thwe pipe to the gears.
then you will need to drill the hole in the pipe so the pip can go through and stop it from turning around and ya done, the other thing you can do it also weld the gears to the housing for even more strengh, but its up to you.
NO.2
pull the centre out, clean it off and welld all the spider gears to what ever they come into contact with, like the other gear and the housing.
when we weld then we make up a sheld to stop the splater from getting into the bearings or the teeth on the gear, but if it does happen some times u can clean it up.
then when i finish welding it i dip the whole thing into sump oil and leave it in therre till it is cool enough to pick up by hand.
never had any troble with them braking when welded with the mig all the way, have had them brake when only welding the gears to the housing and not one another aswell .
ive got some pics to but can get it to work right now but will get them up later![]()
* 84 FJ60 - 37's, 308, 80 series coils/diffs and LS1TT in the makin
* 73 KE26 - x4 Brown Wagz
* 73 KE20 NOW 3T-TE
* 84 KE70 Panno
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