PM Mos he has a Good setup.
i just picked up a 600x300 china cooler, can u please post pics of your installation,
am most interested in clearance {gutters etc} and piping pics, i have been quoted $350 for piping when the cooler cost me $150![]()
i would like to be able to pipe in my self with some exhaust piping {new of course} and silicon bends/metal bends.
was anyone able to pipe theirs them selves
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
PM Mos he has a Good setup.
Beige.... The new Black!!!
$350 for piping sounds like a damn good price, you have to expect it to be more than the actual 'cooler seeing as the 'cooler is mass produced & the piping will be all custom.
A mate of mine just had his 600x300 ebay special piped up, & it cost a bit more than $350, but that's all in alloy with all silicone joiners & T bolt hose clamps supplied. He positioned the cooler with the inlet & exit at the bottom, and the piping running through holes cut into the radiator support, which required some pretty curly piping.
my piping goes the same route as the standard jzx81 chaser cooler pipes do, down the radiator support panel under the rad into cooler and back up the other side into tb.
i have seen some like southos, which go through te paneling at the front under the head lights, this is good if you wont the intecooler hanging up side down, it would require less piping and less silicon i would think.
just remember mate, you get what you pay for, dont get a crap job to save $300.
most 1j cressida's i know of have cost about the $650 to $750 mark.
price depends on mild or stainless steel and whether they use donuts for the bends or mandrel bends.
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
Yeh $350 sounds good, but that depends on whether you get the good hose clamps or crappy screwdriver ones, and also whether you get good silicon hose or cheap blue rubber. From the cressida's ive seen they run the cooler sitting the right way up and almost as high up as it can go then the two pipes on the ends are silicon 90's which go back to the front panel and pass through a cut hole under the headlights. Just watch out for space on the indicators.
It is also possible to use the two standard cooler rubbers that come off the engine. The turbo side one needs to be trimmed by about 1"
- LeeRoy
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
i was just looking at your site, is that a 600x300
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
Yep, sure is...
600x300x76
This is my bro's(jzx83 on here) cressida. The cooler is "upside down" so has very short piping. It fits fine with no bumper skin cutting and minor reo cutting. The battery is in the boot though obviously.
There are two holes on the panel just under the lights for the piping to pass thru, on the driver side the hole is just the PS cooler holes enlarged(PS cooler is changed for the 1JZ anyway). Works well but would be much neater if there was no receiver drier in front of the condenser. I can't remember whether chasers have the drier in the same spot though.
They're a pain in the MX83s... Chaser is under the D/S headlight - much more room.Originally Posted by jzk25
How well does the plumbing get past the air con lines on the passenger side? I couldn't see a 3" hose fitting between the light, bumper bracket and air con fittings when I was trialing mine...
Here's mine. 2.5" on hot side (cut down 90, 45, straight, cut down 45), 3" filter to turbo inlet (45 and straight), 3" cold side (3" throttle body inlet)(45, cut 45 [a single 90 doesn't clear blinker], 90, straight, 90 silicone).
The welding still needs to be cleaned up, pressure and temperature measurement bosses need to be tig'ed on, boot-type rubber needs to be fitted around the holes, battery location needs to be sorted out (still a few things to do)
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
On the passenger side I cut the hole thru the panel where you can see a round pressing in the panel already. I just rerouted some wiring away from the hole and hole sawed a 3" hole thru it. The piping is 2.5" both sides as the 1JZ throttle body is only 70mm not 75mm like the 2JZ. My VK that you can see in the background has a 2JZ with 3" piping, the cressy's engine used to be in that.
I think the reason I turned it upside down was because of the front indicators.
why not just get a smaller battery? (i think southo used one of those orange ones)
mos it lookes like you can fit a smaller battery in that space, is there another reason to relocate the battery?
better to have that wieght over the back wheels for a better weoght distrubtion. southo wanrted a factory looking engine bay, most people couldnt give two shits about the battery int he boot i would suggest.
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
Cost and simplicity are factors too, it is a lot cheaper and simpler(if you have the equipment) to put a good sized battery in a $20 battery box in the boot. I also used the battery space to mount the PS reservoir as the car still has cruise control which is mounted in the chasers PS reservoir location.
what do u actually need to do to mount the battery in the boot, apart from putting the battery in a box in the boot![]()
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
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