If it is the main seal your going to have to get to it. It's behind the flywheel...........so I think at the very least your going to need to get the gearbox out of the area you will be working on.
Got an oil leak on my 22re. It is between engine and gearbox (rearmain seal?) How much does it cost to fix? Do you have to pull out the engine or gearbox completely?
If it is the main seal your going to have to get to it. It's behind the flywheel...........so I think at the very least your going to need to get the gearbox out of the area you will be working on.
the seal itself will be relatively cheap, in the $20 region, although there is a lot of work to change it.
for starters, the engine will need to seperated from the gbox, be it the engine pulled out or gbox dropped.
oil has to be dropped, and the sump removed usually.
so yeh, set a weekend/day aside to do it incase things happen unplanned
id probly just rip the engine out, then you have ample room to do stuff with it![]()
hello
Im pretty sure that for the rear main its not essential to remove the sump. I did mine on the GZE with a little pick to pierce the old seal and pull it out without scoring anything.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
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Box will need to come out and flywheel will have to come off. In most later model engines, the rear main is in a rear main seal holder so the sump doesn't need to come off. A small screwdriver is tapped between the seal and holder and the seal invariably just pops out.
A regular garage will slug you about 150 - 200 for the labour and maybe 10-20 for the part.
Last edited by gianttomato; 24-12-2005 at 04:27 AM.
Be wary of mechanics rippin you off. Ive seen them try stinging $60 for an $8(retail) part... and that was just 2 weeks ago![]()
with the 22RE the seal is in an aluminium housing bolted to the back of the block. The sump has 2 bolts going into this at the bottom, so the sump also needs to be dropped. It can be peirced and removed without removing the housing and sump, but for an inexperienced person this is most likely going to end in tears, especially if its the original seal and is quite stuck and hard to get off. Your better off spending the extra 12 bux on a new sump gasket, and spend half an hour with a craft knife and a weetbix box makin a new rear mainseal housing gasket. Make sure you seal this with permatex No. 3. While your in there, check your spigot bearing. Better still, before you take the rear gasket and sump etc off, get in with a cutting tool of sorts(dremel comes to mind) and cut out the old spigot bearing, and put a new one in. save dickin around later.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
as above
but the "rear main carrier" {technical name} gasket isnt worth fuck all either, so just buy one, when u put the rear mani seal into the carrier, seal it with copious amounts of Loctite 515 {goo} or loctite 262 {thread lock}, wipe off excess and oil the seal lip up.
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
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