hard to pull the exhaust off and check at the cat for any turbine wheels?
if I can't find the problem tomorrow I'll just run it with the first turbo, keep it below 4000rpm, and fast-track my 35/40 project... just with std fuelling and ecu, low boost
hard to pull the exhaust off and check at the cat for any turbine wheels?
Its a bitch , both turbos will have too come off just to have a look , maybe with the egcv off and the car on a hoist you may be able to see around the bend in the Y pipe with a mirror to see the ex wheel.
It more sound like the ex wheel shat it self and a couple of bits sucked back into the motor and damaged the spark plug .
Hopefully if it was only a few bits they will have gone in and back out without causing engine damage. Greg have you comp tested it yet ,
Dave
nope
my current thought is what you said.. exhaust wheel shat itself, blew up 2 spark plugs (now that I've ruled out just about everything else)
I'll get it comp tested and a scope stuck down there next week, make sure there's no damage. I'm hopeful about that, as it still runs beautifully
If it sounds even when it cranks and idle's evenly id say you will be ok .
I have seen a 5 or 10 cent piece of that intercooler pipe plastic ring thing go through a 2 j before , made a few taps and missed while tapping but then cleared and ran perfect there after.
Dave
Chris was suggesting that you drop the exhaust and look at the front of the cat, not suggesting that you drop the Y piece to look at the turbos!Originally Posted by chris davey
Cheers
Wilbo
Ah yeah forgot about the cat
The only cat i know of is the 4 leg one.
I came up with a different way to get TTC at the flick of a switch.
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...t=diode+switch
It does give you more power between 3000 and 4000 rpm, specially if you use a boost controller to prevent wastegate creep. This comes at the expense of power below 3000 and light throttle torque. Basically it makes the car faster in most "race" style conditions besides take off, like when you nail the throttle when moving there is not as much lag in the 3000-4000 range as there is no wasted time when the sequential system operates. Plus you get better fuel economy.
well, that was a waste of an hour.
I just manually wired up both the inlet and exhuast valve, to eliminate the possibility one of the valves had died. The result is the same as the TTC, which leaves either a dead turbo or the actual flap that redirects exhaust gas has died.
And even better, I lost a c-clip, so I can't even un-do it :\
while I'm on it, I'm about to buy a cheap wastegate.... is there any reason to spen the extra $500+ on a turbosmart?
The concern with the cheapies is:
A) the diaphram material may melt leaving you with no boost control
B) The clearance around the shaft of the valve may not be big enough so that once it gets hot it becomes an interference fit leaving you with either no boost or not boost control.
bahdamn. posted in the wrong thread.
It's not boost cut.
if I take it above 4000rpm without boosting (or, as stated, do the TTC mod) I just get no boost.
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