Wait for Chris Davey to reply.
He'll give you his thoughts on his Wolf3D 1JZ installation.
Hi all,
im wiring a wolf 3d ecu into a jza70 1jzgte manual and was wondering if anyone knew which sensor i should be usuing as the input trigger. I understand that the 1jz has 2 cam sensors and a crank angle sensor as well, also if anyone knows the pinout of these on the ecu that would be great (am spliocing into factory loom). also does anyone know if the sensors as single or dual pulse??
With the injectors does anyone know if the injector wires on the ecu plug go staright to the injectors or are they wired through a resistor first??
anyhelp much appreaciated!
Thanks,
Hayden
Wait for Chris Davey to reply.
He'll give you his thoughts on his Wolf3D 1JZ installation.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
hahahaha, I don't want to discourage him.
There really shouldn’t be that much trouble with a manual car.
Re injectors: no resistors required as it will handle low or high impedance injectors
I tried both cam sensors in every possible way and I also used a signal conditioning box and I could not get mine to work.
If it is a v4 not v4+ then you will need a 3 channel igniter and 3 dual outlet coil packs.
You use the ne and ne- wires with are the crank angle sensor wires. The g, g- and g1 and g1- are the cam sensor wires.
You can get pinouts from www.1jzgte.com/supra6 or something like that. Sorry I am at work and don’t have the link.
Otherwise, search for wolf and 1jz and you should find my thread about 3 months ago which was very long and in the end I gave up and got a microtech lt12s with x6 igniter. Took me 4 hours to install and run.
Any reason you really want the Wolf? If not, consider selling for a microtech IMO. I went through what you are trying to do now and I was determined to get it to work but it just wouldn’t do it without more stuffing around. When you use a waste spark system, the spark strength is weaker also whereas if you go to an x6 igniter with the microleb it is stronger than stock. I didn’t want to have to spend money to make something worse that stock. If you have v4+ then that is ok.
Hope I haven’t put you off too much as you are just asking for help but it is hard for me not to be negative after my experiences.
hey chris thanks for that, we are usuing wolf because we did a group buy and got em pretty cheap and also because i just thought they lined up to be a good computer. You dont know which wires for the CAS are which ie +5v, signal & gnd?? with the ignition we are running a three channel M&W ignitor with three dual outlet coils for waste spark, so there shouldnt be a problem there.
What i meant by the injector qustion is are there already resistors wired inline with the injectors in the stock loom, cause we are splicing into it. Also do you know the characteristics of the stocko injectors (high or low impedance, flow rate etc)
Thanks alot champ!
Yeah, I believe they are a good computer, I just couldn't get it to work on my car but I was using stock igniter.
There is only 2 wires on teh CAS and the wire colours differ depending on what car the engine came from. There are only two spots to put the two CAS wires so just try both ways.
I did this with the cam sensors as well.
It will be a lot easier if you can get a working setup file as well as there are a lot of options that need to be correct for it to work.
I sold my Wolf to Steven Nanevski on www.soarercentral.com and he was using it on an auto 1jz and getting installed by a wolf pro in Sydney so if he has got his going by now, then it may be best to get in contact with him. He is on here as well but I have forgotten what his username is.
Stock injectors are high impedance so no resistors are wired into the loom. The stock yellow top injectors are 380cc and if you have stock turbos you will not need to upgrade these. They are good to around 250rwkw. Next upgrade is the drop in 440cc from JDM 2jz or since you have a wolf you can go for the US 2jz which are 550cc. That is what I have and these should be good for around 330-350rwkw depending on air fuel ratio.
Hope that helps![]()
if you use a 6 channel ignitor (like an x6) and 6 coils (bosch or standard coils or whatever) then parallel the ignitor inputs in the apropriate pairs of 2 then connect them to the 3 ignitor outputs of the wolf you will have about the same spark energy as a full 6 output computer like the lt12.
(provide you get it all to start)
That is what I attempted to do with the stock igniter. Didn't get past the starting bit though. Was only getting spark on 2 & 5.
Wired the old microleb in and got it running in 4 hours.
I had a go last year with a 4+ on a 1JZ, and eventually got a little help from someone who's played with a lot more Wolf's than I. Got it to read the sensors eventually, although I'm sure it would have been easier with hall effect... Then again, after you've owned a Motec, everything else seems difficult![]()
Hi all thanks for the help so far.
Well its is now all wired in and ready to go, only problem is she wont start. The input trigger light on the ecu does not flash meaning its not picking up a signal from the crank angle sensor. The trigger 2 light (sync input) flashes so its picking up th cam sensor but not the crank sensor. The guy from wolf seems to think the ecu may need a reluctor input box or something that filters the signal of electrical noise during cranking (the starter motor creates a massive amount of electrcal noise) so im wondering does anybody have any experience with this because im at my wits end!!!
Thanks guys,
Hcope86 & Soarer_D00D
Also does anyone know where this crank angle sensor is located cause i couldnt see it and i want to visibally check it to make sure its not fuckered.
Cheers
Crank angle sensor is on down on the drivers side of the engine near the turbo drain into the sump. Will be 2 wires that are shielded (about 15cm long) going to a plug.
I tried using the signal conditioning box with mine and I couldn’t get it to work. Do you have a working file from somebody else running a 1j with a v4? If so, load that. I have been told that the base map from wolf doesn’t seem to work very well. (if at all)
if you cant get the wolf to work and wont to bail out on it, i can get you a microtech at a good price same as the one i got chris.
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
dont know what wolf call it or weather its the same as the 3rz but im setting up a haltech at the moment. and i had it set to hall effect as i just assumed, but it uses "motronic" as haltech calls it or reluctor. did it have a basemap on it? does it have the teeth and teeth offset already put into the program.
you can check which ones are ground , trigger etc on the cas by,. hookimg a multimeter up to 2 of the wires if the resistance drops when u move the crank by hand one of those are 5v/12v and the other is trigger dont know if it matters which way id say they do though(someone must know)
have you got a laptop connected to it, id be more inclined to look at the guage page on the tuning program to see if you get an engine speed at all?
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
i used a wolf with my 1j for years, worked perfectly with all standard igniter, coils and sensors, it was the 4+ version
can mail you the map if you want
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