Fixing rear Qtr panel on TA22

[RiceburnaGTV]

Hey all just getting the red one ready for the new owner and am trying to fix where the missus scraped the rear quarter.

What I want to know is how far do I have to spray it? As in do I have to dull the whole back quarter to the door and pillar that goes to the roof,and than spray that entire section

OR just sand a little around the spot where I have filled it and any overspray with primer colour and clear just cut back with wet and dry down the track.

Heres a pic:


Thanks in advance

Nathan

[ndgcpr]

i would probably go to the crease in the top may i should just draw a pic...




just my 2 cents

[RiceburnaGTV]

yeah thought so,tomorrow will be the day to see i guess,

thanks mate

[o_man_ra23]

I would go about 10cm past where it needs to go. That is, where you have sanded so far, dont sand any further, but paint about 10cm past there. Dont mask the edge of where you paint, just let it free flow. Acrylic(including acrylic 2pak paint) eats into the previous layer to create a bond. This way you can blend paints together. If your using enamel, well your stuffed and it will never look good, but you need to paint the entire body including all the roof and the other side etc.

Cheers, Owen

[Bananaman]

Depends on how good your paint match is too.. With my old rx7 i once had a can of touchup paint that was so good i could spray it anywhere on the body and once it dried you had no idea it was even done... was fantastic.

In the real world though, the odds of this are very slim.

[Major Clod]

You want to fade your new colour to the old colour. I'd probably go about 10-20cm from the primer. Make your coats lighter as you get further out, so that there isn't an obvious transition in colour and build up. If the existing paint has a clearcoat, clear out a bit further than the colour so that everything is blended nicely, you want it to be a nice smooth transition. It's harder for the human eye to detect a fade from one shade to another.

Make sure you mask up the rest of the car to avoid overspray. Plastic sheeting will do wonders for your bonnet, roof etc.. Any panels closer by, use paper, as it will soak up the overspray rather than have it come back into your job.

If the area to be painted was below the crease line in the middle of the car, you could have stopped at the crease, pity it is just above it.

A tip for masking on edges. Instead of having the masking tape completely flat, roll it backwards over onto itself, then tape it down with some more tape. Rolling the tape like this will stop you from getting an obvious edge build up.

Main thing to remember is to just make sure you spray each coat out a little bit further than the previous so that there isn't any obvious build up.

[RiceburnaGTV]

Thanks guys,

With the primer should I just try and concentrate it over where I have had to use bog,let that dry then use light wet and dry to cut back any over spray?

When applying the red,will it stick on areas of the clear I havent dulled with wet and dry?

As for the colour match,its a factory GMH colour and i got it from the same place I bought the paint from 6 months ago when I first sprayed it,Im hoping thats enough to get a good match..

Thanks again for the help..

Nath

[Dale]

Primer the bog, and anywhere that's rubbed through. Sand it back with a block, and run your hands over it until you can feel no lip there before spraying it with the top coats.

Mask it up the surrounding panel besides what you want to blend to well, colour over clear can look obvious, kind of speckled into it. Cutting the blended edged (and new paint back) back with 1200 grit and buffing them together should make them come out pretty uniform.

It will stick to it, but it will stick to it better if it's rubbed back lightly - don't worry too much about it though as you still want it to buff back out good. Mainly make sure the surface is cleaned up good with prepsol if any paint is going to hit it.