Was that (1->2) with solenoids and all connected? Admittedly I never went to redline in 1st, but it didn't seem to want to shift, and the speed signal was a connector awayOriginally Posted by CrUZida
But the D->N->D->N sounds strange.
Mos.
Mine changed from 1st to 2nd when I had no speed signal, but then would drop into drive, then neutral, then drive, then neutral etc.
I had to leave the shifter in 2nd to drive the car.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Was that (1->2) with solenoids and all connected? Admittedly I never went to redline in 1st, but it didn't seem to want to shift, and the speed signal was a connector awayOriginally Posted by CrUZida
But the D->N->D->N sounds strange.
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Yeah, everything else was working (except the shift quality solenoid - A341E).
I can't explain the D/N thing either.
But I changed the dash over to a different one (both had the 4p/rev working when tested with multimeter), and she shifted correctly again (it gave me an SPD error code for a split second when it wasn't shifting correctly)
Then got the SP2 working properly (Crown box set up for hall effect needed to work with Soarer's reluctance sensor), and all errors disappear.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Thanks guys. Great info there Mos. So can just hook the 3 wire straight up to the ECU with the speed cut defender eh? No need for signal modification first?
My idea was to only turn the sensor off at about 170 with a frequency switch so it would behave as normal under 170. I realize it would not work if I just disabled it permenently. That wave form you posted would probably still be recognised by something that would recognise a square wave. I believe it just needs a high and a low to trigger, but I could be wrong. But all this means moot if I can just hook the other sensor up.Yeah, I had a similar idea (to disconnect all available speed signals) - for about a microsecond
Taking into account that it won't change out of first if it has no speed signal present, it can be expected that it will try to change back to first...
Not something I would like to try
What I was saying was that: If no speed signal = 1st gear
Then the implication is that: Disconnecting speed signal at 170km/h = transmission will try to change back to 1st
It's something you could maybe try with a signal generator (at idle) and some visualisation on the solenoids, run the freq up to 170km/h, then disconnect sig gen while observing the solenoids' function.
I wouldn't expect the inductive sensor to be correctly picked up by a squarewave input but you could be lucky if it's sensitive enough. I think the amplitude of the inductive signal is very small, while the squarewave is 12V.
For SPD, yes, you can just connect the aristo vehicle speed sensor signal output directly to the ECU SPD pin.
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
This is also why the speed cut defenders aren't that cheap. They need to calculate the signal produced at 170 or whatever its set at & then reproduce it to send to the ECU to trick it into thinking the car's still travelling at 170.
I hear you Mos. Thats what I was a bit worried about too!
Doesnt matter though if I can just hook it straight up. I will try that with the speed cut defender and let you know how it goes Does the same apply for the 1JZ soarer speed input?
I got my pivot for $50 so it sounds like a got a good deal then.
If it's JZZ30 it should be the same.
Mos.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Bookmarks