yeah i think my FMIC will be done with silicone bend and stainless, just sooooo much easyer and i dont think its THAT unattractive (only 2 bends will be visable)
the HPC coated mildsteel i think is well past overkill unless its a crazy fast drag car
Mild steel + HPC FTW. It's probably the most expensive option but the heat insulation properties are superior to anything listed above.
I wouldn't have a problem using plain mild steel either; as mentioned the inner surface of the pipe gets coated in a layer of oil (even a brand new turbo will seep some oil through the seals) so the chances of corrosion are nil.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
yeah i think my FMIC will be done with silicone bend and stainless, just sooooo much easyer and i dont think its THAT unattractive (only 2 bends will be visable)
the HPC coated mildsteel i think is well past overkill unless its a crazy fast drag car
I'm using mild steel, painted. There is a nice coat of oil on the inside of the pipe work from a previous blown turbo![]()
Hydra
JZA61 Celica XX
Originally Posted by merc-blue
When you pay 16 dollars a foot to have them coated inside and out , with a superiorr heat transferring product , you cant argue thats a good price
its not as expensive as what people thing
i think it was about 170 all up to have ALL my piping coated for my frontmount setupThe bends and pipe came from a local exhaust shop , and a dairy supply chain ( second hand stainless FTW - cheap! )
The most expensive bits were the silicon bends - and they were only used as it required a little less than perfect bents to get around everything in the gt4's engine bay - silicon gives you room for error and play
Saphira - ST205 Celica GT-FOUR Group A NZ No:1/4"Mongrel Garage - back on Aussie soil! "
I pulled out my mild steel piping recently.
No corrosion what so ever.
There was a thin film of blow-by oil residue that protected it from corroding.
Copper piping FTW
See here
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...postcount=2867
Well, there's pricing on the copper pipe, so far it seems the winner for easy piping solutions...Originally Posted by old_mr2
By the way: I'm not arguing that stainless isn't a great material, just sourcing out cheaper, easier solutions that you can DIY
RM
Whatever you use you can always protect the pipe from corosion by polishing it as the wax will help keep it away.
- LeeRoy
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
Mine is Mild steel, then powdercoated black. -- works a treat...
I wanted a cheap but effective "factory looking" finish.
It's only been on for 12 mths, and the last time I removed the piping there were no signs of any rust..
![]()
Where is the best place(cheapest) to get joiner pieces with the clamps, what is best rubber, silicon ? I need to get some for my Intercooler setup. I need some 2.5" pieces and a couple of 2.5" to 2" pieces any idea on what those should cost? I got a heap of stainless for free so that is what I will be using.
Thanks
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
DIY you can't beat aluminum if you ask me. I did the lot for under 200. You dont need to weld to use aluminum, silcon pipes and some good clamps work fine for low boost. ~8psi odd. If you do decide to run more you can do one of two things. heat the aluminum and bend the lips out with pliers in a make shift lip. or take them some where to weld a lip around the ends. A bead run or two should be sufficient. Little bit of file action and vola. IC set. RE the oxidisation, most aluminum is sent out treated with a coating to protect it from oxidisation for extra protection, a coat of clear coat will also protect the outside. So will a good polish. The inside should be fine, the tiny amounts of blow-by should assist in the protection, plus there shouldn't be moisture in you intake any way!unless of course you have water injection if which case you have enough to get hpc steel you cheap skate!
My 2c
Last edited by ReQuieM; 29-06-2006 at 08:40 PM.
Uber cheap IC piping, made up of 5M-E, 3S-FE and others! Good for the price, but you soon get sick of splitting 20+ year old rubber
Soon to be replaced by
Mild Steel. Will prbly get HPC'd (was looking at chroming but meh).
Cheers
Wilbo
If you've got time and patience, then ebay is the palce for silicone reducers & clampsOriginally Posted by Mr Multivalve
If you're in a hurry, then try Qld Diesel Spares or Havey's hoses.
Just be careful. A mate bought some "silicon" and "hose clamps" from Ebay and they were shithouse. Just crap blue plasticy rubber hose and normal repco style large radiator hose clamps and he always blows off hoses and all sorts of shit. The silicon was also nothing like the multiply type that you see with thermo flex and sfs stuff.Originally Posted by thechuckster
There is some good stuff on there but just be careful.
- LeeRoy
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
Both copper and aluminium are very good at conducting heat... not really a property you want in your IC pipework.
If you want to use either of these materials I'd definately get them coated!
Stainless is probably a the best option to use uncoated.
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