4AFE into Toyota TA47 -80 RWD.

[Liquidhandwash]

That's cool, the wheels look great and suit the car. just with your vibration. when you pulled out the drive shaft to fit your engine and gearbox, did you spit the drive shaft in the middle, or take the whole shaft out? It possible to put the shaft back togther 180 degrees out which can cause a vibration. Its also possible to fit rear section back to front which is also very bad. Also check you center bearing doesnt have an tension on it, eg losen the 2 mounting bolts off and tighten them with the wheels on the ground.

[Ceasar]

Hmm when you say it, i had to change the fronter part of the transaxel to get the 22 spline for the gearbox. I installed it like the old one were placed but maybe got it 180 degrees wrong.
Or maybe every axel is balanced on it's on and is not interchangeable without re-balancing?

Anyhow i have orded a new centerbearing so i will tear down it all to change it and will try to turn it 180 degrees and back and se if there is a difference.

What happen if the centerbearing have tension on it?

Also one Thoth is that the new engine mounts/engine setup it not perfectly centered/straight so the angels of in and out is a bit of. That would also make this symptom right?

[Liquidhandwash]

Im not sure if what you mean, did you change the front yoke or the front half of the drive shaft? If the Yoke was replaced correctly its unlikely to cause a problem. If the shaft was replaced you will have to get the whole drive shaft balanced.

The centre bearing can be pushed on a weird angle if the mounts are tightened up when the suspension is hanging down.

I thought you might like to have a look at the way a 1uz engine has the distributor set up, just in case your 3d printer version gives you trouble.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

[Ceasar]

Sorry, english it not my native. But yeah i change the whole front section since the yokes are "non serviceble" on these axles.

(ignore the 50 cm haha)

So might be screw then and need to balance it all then. Will give it a try to rotate it once tough to se if it makes a difference.

Ok ok, good tip thanks!

Haha that was a clever way to do it, i have the AC beltpully free to might be a better solution to use it.

[hoonicorn]

You can try to re-balance it like I did-
Put a turbo boost clamp on the driveshaft, probably at the back of the front half, and screw it up. Drive it, and if the vibration is there then rotate it on the shaft 90deg. When you've done all 4 possible points, move it along the driveshaft. Some places will make the vibration worse, some will make it better. When you're fed up with reaching under the car with a screwdriver on the side of the road go and get it balanced professionally.
I kept the idle-up valve in place, the default position should be 'shut', and I earthed it manually to open it through a dashboard switch. That meant I could add 100rpm to the idle when it was low, usually when cold in winter with headlights on.
Nice conversion, well done!

[Ceasar]

Okey so the old centerbearing was toasted, the rubber was very weak, so now that is changed!

Now im tinkering around with the differential, the backlash when i have removed wheels and all dosn't seem that big after all. Drained the oil and checked for metalparts and got very few tiny tiny flakes?
Checked threw the plughole and cant se anything "bigger on the ringgear or pinion!

When rotating it tough i hear some tiny kog noises, could be normal? havn't checkt anything similar before so dont know really since it's metal against metal.
Still quite paranoid about the diff, is it worth it to take it out and inspect more? or could all the sounds come from the centerbearing?

And if that case, how do i get the shaft's out from the axle? :S

Thank on beforehand!

[Liquidhandwash]

The diff may make a noise but it very unlikely to be the vibration you have, get the driveshaft balanced, as you can't mix and match driveshaft like you have without causing balance issues.

[Ceasar]

So manage to get the driveshaft balanced, was a little bit out of balance but not much. Took away some of the pulseating noise so now i can hear more clearly that my diff is probably bad since it a more consistent grinding noise from the back, specially when i im in between acceleration and deacceleration. Still a little bit of vibration but i seems to be my pinonangels since my engine is tilting a little bit to much backwards compared to the original.

One positive thing tough is that the i found out the the toyota tercel is using the same diff an ratio in its 4wd. And norther Sweden seems to have som wrecked tercels!

[Ceasar]

Seems like i have luck on my side found a guy how is selling me a LSD zenki diff with a new 3.7 gearing. He have driveshafts to it aswell but i been reading a bit about doing this conversion but never thott i would get my hands on the LSD, both my axels and the zenki are 24mm right? but the zenki diff will need 5 mm shorter shaft or is that wrong?

Is there anything else i need to think of for this swap?

[Ceasar]

So thought I might give a very delayed updated on the project and setup.
Hopefully this would help anyone trying to go down my path of engine swap!

So think I found the superior setup for any FE in RWD layout. So have gone through 4AF - 4AFE gen 1 & 2, 7AFE 96-97 (lets call it 2 gen?) and lastly the 7AFE 98-2000 (lets call it 3 gen?) also called "Lean Burn" which I think was the last iteration of the A engines?

So all the 4AFE and 2 gen 7AFE impose the same problems when placing it in longitudinal,
1, water/thermostat housing is taking quite a bit of space towards the firewall. I solved this by relocation it to the side by some VVS and aluminium plate, and so far I have not notice
any problem with this solution.
2, i, most problematic thing with these engine is the distributor/ignition system which also will hit the firewall. I have gone through several solutions to this problem. Relocating it to the
cam sprocket and run it in reverse and switch 2 ignition coil locations (looks weird but works), however mine setup was 3D printed so broke after a while..

ii, second option was to remove the sparkwire/ignition coil from the dizzy and use the "halfsmart" system of toyota which will send IGT and IGF signals from the distributor to fire the
sparkplugs. These signals was bypassed by a arduino to "sniff" the fire signal (IGT) and with the help of 1 tooth reset on the crank and a mosfet card fire coil on plugs in batch. A
transistor drain was use to fake the IGF signal which was a bit of a headache to get right. This worked quite well but sometime at high RPM lost power, think it might have been me who
coded bad that cause this.
3, Intake direction, tried a couple of solutions to this.
i, 3D print top part of intake, 3d scanned and printed top part of intake which gave quite a good possibility to improve airflow and worked for about 2 weeks until I got a backfire and the
the whole thing exploded.
ii, 3D print a adapter to 180 degree rotate the intake top part, was a simple solution that worked but airflow wise I think it was quite bad..


iii, re-weld the neck of the intake to the other side. Finally bought a aluminium welder which made this possible and is the best solution however how these gen 1-2 intake are made it
was still hard to get a good airflow of the relocation.

Now with problem stated lets discuss the outcome and the Gen 3 7AFE.

Waterhouse relocation for this engine is the same as for any of the other FE, so far all FE engine have the same pattern except gen 1 of the 4AFE.
So same solution was used.

What really make this engine better is that this 3 gen came with a smart ignition system so this 7AFE have a crank position sensor and in addition to this a cam reset sensor. This is then feed to two coils which handle the spark in batch fire. Lovely part with this is that the signal is 5V so I just made a new harness and could then fit 1NZ-FE coils (they need a little bit of sanding to fit in the holes), in addition to this the cam position sensor take less space then the gutted dizzy i had before so this gave more clearance towards the firewall (well needed in my car).

Intake of these engine are also a bit difference, its a solid aluminium pendlum which uses a vaccum activated valve to turn of 1 of the 2 runners to each cylinder. (this increase swirl and tumble and give this engine a bit more torque at low RPM) However the pendlum is quite a bit better design to reweld also, wo by cutting the back side and front side and switch them I manage to get a good intake as well. Its not perfect fit though som some filler aluminium was needed to seal this.

Now to the headache with this Lean Burn engine which got new enough to apply to new Europe regulation of immobilizer. Did not get the key to my first engine and the ECU is synced to 1 immobilizer and key so needed to buy a whole new set to get them to sync up. Glued the chip to the immobilizer and had some haadacke of the pinout ( it helps to open ECU to read pinout) but well switched it works good.

However if I would do it all over again I would throw the OEM ECU as far as I could, buy a stand alone ECU and use all the good sensors already provided by the engine to set it up.
This would also allow me to set it up with a turbo which I think would be a great fun engine, but not more than 6 psi... rods of the 7AFE are quite skinny.

So here is how my setup looks now, not super clean but: