4AFE into Toyota TA47 -80 RWD.

[jondee86]

Congratulations When you choose to do something different, there are bound to be difficulties to overcome. The reward is hearing your creation burst into life for the first time !!!

Cheers... jondee86

[Ceasar]

Well got it running quite good right now and been driving it around. Fun with a bit more power but i notic that the idle of the car is a bit high most of the time and it got a bit uneven idle.

Checked alot for leaks in the intake but cant find any.. got the IAC loose and cleaned it but it still is not running quite right.

Do anyone have a idea of what can cause it? it really messes with my head. Thanks

Otherwise i will soon upload some pictures of the current status of the car running.!

[Liquidhandwash]

Ive been watching your thread with interest, well done. How much better does it go? you would have taken a bit of weight out of the car with the engine change, so it might even handle better?
Your on the right track looking for leaks, the air is getting into the engine somehow. Does it idle if you block off the intake with your hand? If it does it would indicate an air leak. also check that vacuum lines by clamping them, Although rare a faulty brake boster can cause high idle.

[Ceasar]

Thanks! Havn't clockt it yet for 0-100 but i feel quite a lot faster, although that can be the new lovely intake sound fault. But when i get it running proper i will do some tests.
I guess my bad flowing intake and header is stealing some power tough

For the weight i am guessing it's around 30 kilos lighter then before. Cant feel that since the car's dampers are really bad at the moment since it was standing still for 9 years. they are also really hard to find new ones in Sweden.
So while we on it, do any front/rear struts fit from other cars with easy/ no modifications? Cant find much info on it.

Been checking with blocking the IAC and then it dosn't dies sometimes and sometimes it does so seems like a tiny leak. Been going trough the vaccum's and dont find any there. I have blocked of quite alof of vaccum and also change places of some of the sensors so im thinking that can come into play?

Otherwise i havn't check the breakbooster, sounds like it can be that! thanks

[Ceasar]

One more question, since i have been cutting alot of cabels that i thott i dont need i started to think of the A/C idle up. that would make the ECU increase idle when A/C is activated. Do anyone know how this works or if it can be part of the problem.
Maybe other ecu electrics to?
electrical chart
http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/90ew...l%20(4AFE).pdf

* checked the breakbooster and no problem there also went over one time more for leaks dont find any.
Also if i block of the intakeport the engine dies, so might not be a leak?

Still its running very high idle.
Also thott that it might be that the new intake design that kind of have the IAC above/lvled with my resivorar so it traps air and wont close?

[jondee86]

Looks like the idle-up valve is a simple on-off 12V solenoid, so see if disconnecting it while the engine is running makes any difference. Also check your ignition timing as too much advance can push the idle speed up.

Cheers... jondee86

[Ceasar]

Dubbelchecked the timing and yeah it had moved so that was the main problem, solved it and it run much better but the idle is still very high and think i has to do with the idle-up, it seems to flow all the time?
Shouldn't close when the car get hot?
Had a quite high fuel consumption to of 0.9L/10km?

So i made a roadtrip home from school of 1400km with the car, was so scared that it wouldn't hold up but i really worked the whole way if you take away the high idle and some (i think) transmission driveshaft imbalance which made it vibrate a lot above 100km/h, seem to have some play in the differential?

[Liquidhandwash]

The idle up should shut off when hot so it could be faulty, or the computer thinks the engine is cold. or it thinks the AC is on.
Also if the car has been sitting around for 9 years the tires could have flat spots which can cause vibrations. Good on you taking it on a road trip, sounds like a blast.

[Ceasar]

Was thinking about that, i have the first generation 4AFE so my IAC (intake idle up) dont have any electric's just added water from cooling system.
But do the ECU compute and "idle" up from the 2 sensors by the thermostat (what i found)? Or do they matter for the ecu?
Is there anyway to check them to se if they are the problem?

I have change and balance new rims so think its in the drivetrain! :/

Was like riding a dildo with the vibrations but quite a lot of fun!

[Liquidhandwash]

There are 2 or possibly 3 temp sensors one for the temp gauge, one for the thermo fan, and one for the ECU. The one for the ECU will make the mixtures rich or lean based on the temp and on most vechles will control the idle up via the ecu. some older engines have a separte idle up that heated by coolant and is not controlled by the ecu.

[jondee86]

Looking at this manual https://apps.techcollege.dk/autoqr/v...C3%A5ndbog.pdf page FI-131 it appears that the 4AFE has a similar setup to the 4AGE. That is, a coolant heated Auxilliary Air Valve (AAV) and an idle air by-pass screw.

It is not uncommon for the AAV to become blocked with debris, and if this happens the valve will stay open and you will have a permanently high idle. A simple test is to check if both the water in and water out hoses to the throttlebody get hot. Even easier, if the valve is working your idle will go high on a cold start and slowly taper back to normal idle as the engine warms up. If it doesn't do that the AAV is not working.

The idle air bypass screw is used to set the idle correctly once the engine is warmed up BUT, that will only work if the AAV is functioning correctly.

Cheers... jondee86

[Liquidhandwash]

Have a look at the centre bearing on your driveshaft, if the rubber is rotted out it can cause your vibration.

[Ceasar]

So after some more miles on the clock i notice that the engine seems to be running quite good, the IAC is still some trouble i got better after some wd-40 but sometimes i dont close. Think that air is getting trapped in the thermostat maybe?
Also getting a bit high fueleconomy 0.9L/miles and guessing the IAC is to blame for that?

Apart from that i still get a lot of vibration from the rear, i got my hands on some new Shelby rims so swapped them with some new tires to eliminate that as a source.
was underneath and poked around since i change all my shocks (guess 9 years of standing still dried them out) and the centerbearing seems quite firm when i move around the axle.
But the diff seems to have a lof of play in it. about 5-8 mm. So is the diff toast? Ran the car when i had it up in the air for the shocks and didn't se "a lot of" vibrations from it?

So i read on a forum that these symptoms can come from a bad wheelbearing in the back. what do you guys think?
So when i speed up i sounds the most and easy up a little when i have constant speed. When im letting of the gas it kind of dont sound at all?

Other then that i did some polish on the card so it's not long yellow which is nice.



Also i have some work to do with the enginebay now when the motor is running good. Need to tidy up the temporary electrics and do some major cleaning and relocate some stuff.
But the 3D-printed dizzy holder is holding up very well and i think i will stick with it.

Here is how it looks now:



Also the fuelpump is sounding alot (almost more then the engine) its a bosch 044 copy. Can you soundproof it in some good way?

So happy to finally have a car to drive again

[LittleRedSpirit]

You can try to make a bracket with soft rubber mounts for the pump.
With the vibration, if you've eliminated wheels, and its not in sync with engine speed, more vehicle speed, then it can really only be a handful of things. Centre bearing as you say, or something within the diff, as these are the drive line parts that spin in sync with road speed. Is the tail-shaft modified, was it balanced? Assuming 2 piece since you mentioned centre bearings already? Unis, Wheel bearings, twisted axle, there's not a lot else it could be.

[Ceasar]

To: Liquidhandwash

Now when i swapped all the shocks and tires on the car it handels way better then before. Still rolling some tough so need to stiffen it up a bit!
Also the new sound of the engine is really nice. Oddly it sounds a lot more from the intake after rewelding it, even tough im using the original airbox and all.

Will soon do a proper 0-100 test as well. have 15.7 seconds to beat with the old engine.